What did you mod today?

Could it be bored out to 20700 since it’s full round?

2x20700 + xhp70.2?

My 2x 18350 M1 is drooling just thinking about it.

Thanks V77! Looks better in person, when the light/sun hits those diamonds at a certain angle, wow! I cut the o-ring grooves today and put a slight polish to it too. I got a 26650 and a 32650 tubes I’m doing next. When I get the time, I did this in 1hr 15 minutes, so 2 1/2 hr. lunch breaks and a 15 minute morning break, I used the old lathe at work. :wink:

Yeah, I tried to make it for a 21700, I should of gone 20700, it might have worked. But seeing I had 2-30T’s I had to try. I actually cut the thread, but it was Tin Foil thick. The M1 is the biggest tube/head diameter wise I have come across for a 18650 light, I gave it a shot, but failed, well in that aspect! I might try the 20700, I have plenty of stock just not the time…… yet! :wink:

I love your grater. That is some really nice machining.

Hey Steve, coming from one of the best Tool Makers I have seen in a long time, that’s a heck of a compliment! Thank you very much! :beer:

I’m wanting to get back into it, tired of building CNC’s and Special machines, I really love turning handles, so for now small, simple and quick mech/mods keep me some what sane. :smiley:

Somewhat? :person_facepalming:

Ok, so that looks like you got your practice in, when is my grater X6 20700 tube coming? :wink:

Nice Kawi, really nice, glad to see you doing retrowork… :smiley:

Oh, and for the record, you also need to make us some 21700 tubes for the GT mini, it’ll do 1711 lumens on the 30T straight out of the box. :smiley: :smiley: :smiley: (measured, not speculation)

I got a spare piece of GRATER just in case I find something with a larger inside diameter. The M1 head I.D. measures 23mm so something around 25-26mm should be doable. I have a GT incoming, when…… who the heck knows??

Did you use some sort of formula with the knurling or just go for it?

Looks real neat kawi :+1: :+1:

Made a Nitecore TIP cover design and 3D printed it. It has raised edge around buttons to prevent accidental activation in pocket. It covers the micro USB port from dust. And it has a place for two magnets. Actually one enough to hold it in place.

TIP cover
I hope the link works.

No going for it didn’t work, those single post swivel head knurling tools wouldn’t get it for me either, here is a vid I found a couple years ago. I have the same set-up and tool post. It still took a couple tries before all was good! :person_facepalming:

Great, thank you :slight_smile:

18650 extension tube for that dreadful Astrolux E01. It’s a E02 now. Almost.


Cutting square threads isn’t that much of a nightmare actually.


Since I wanted to make this light usable, I cooked up an an attiny85 driver with [1x7135][1x7136@2.5A]*
(* instead of a FET since I wanted to have _some _regulation on turbo; plus no room for stacking 7135s)
and put Anduril (in FW3A config) on it.
Some tweaking required , now it’s fantastic. 1A is plenty for my EDC tasks and that should stay in regulation down to ~3.2V.
Lowest usable moon draws 2.4mA, quiescent current is 15µA. Not bad.

It still has the stock XP-L @4000k in it. I got a few LH351D’s and Luxeon V’s on the way to see how they compare ( (both 4000K, CRI ~70 vs 90+…. choices…. :expressionless: … any ideas?)

No knurling yet (as I don’t have the proper tools) but I kind of like it this simple. Maybe I’ll pattern etch it, maybe it gets a rubber cover.
We’ll see how this holds up anyway, it’s only AW-2007 aluminium which isn’t very corrosion resistant.

@kikkoman what tool did you use for the square threads? …and why is the EO1 dreadful?

Nice mod anyway :beer:

A hand-dremeled carbide insert (started out as a 11ER 60°), squared the end & sides, narrowed it down to ~.65mm, ground large side & end relief angles and put a tiny radius at the tip.
Could have started with a HSS blank too, I just figured grinding this would be quicker.
From there on it was just manual threading, 100rpm, 0.1mm depth of cut. That AW-2007 machines nicely.

Why dreadful? The driver, mainly. Terrible mode spacing (one mode low, the next three between 350 and ~1000 lm IIRC). No LVP either.
The UI wasn’t that bad (nice and simple) , good form factor too but the modes killed it.

Thanks! :beer: :beer: :beer:

Nice tip. I’ll try that one day. :+1: :beer:

Today I’ve tried Optisolis quad in AT40: Amutorch AT40

I got the pair of Eagle Eye X6 hosts in the mail today, already had the quad board from Noctigon loaded with Samsungs and waiting, so I made a nice thick 36x12mm copper spacer/heat sink to fit the 33mm Noctigon board and Ledil Angie into the head of the X6. Worked out really nice, need to build a driver so when a new thermal compound get’s here Monday I’ll be ready to assemble it. :slight_smile:

Edit: I went ahead and built a 17mm driver with Bistro and assembled the X6 Quad, after polishing up the top surface of the copper sink. Didn’t use any thermal paste or glue in the sink as I am waiting on Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and a new synthetic diamond thermal paste that will be here Monday. A quick initial test with the light dry assembled showed some 3400 lumens on an LG HE4.

Edit II: The epoxy came early, went ahead and re-flowed the 33mm MCPCB to the copper sink then glued the assembly into the X6 head with the Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive and assembled it all….

Bistro was working fine on an LG HE4, but with a Sony VTC5A in place it glitches some of the time. And when it’s not glitching? How about 4616.1 lumens out the front? :smiley:

Edit II: Ok, so I applied the Bistro fix and recharged the VTC5A, now it works solidly and is really amazing…. 5171.55 lumens in Turbo at start. Pretty nice little light! :smiley: