I reflowed an XM-L2 5C onto a DTP board and put it into my Kronos X6. The tint is great, and the beam pattern is perfect.
I modded my B158.
I swapped in an XP-L HI 3B reflowed onto a Sinkpad, added 22 gauge wire, a MTN-17DDm driver, lighted tailcap, and bypassed springs.
That was my second reflow ever, and I’m so happy I didn’t mess it up!
I painted the top of the pill a flat black to minimize any artifacts (Thanks pilotdog68 for the paint brand!). Man is it hard to use that stuff without ruining the finish.
I get 5.5-7 amps at the tail from it, and 169600cd. So about 824 meters of throw.
It is a Remington Standard, it does not say 12” anywhere but perhaps the 16 means it is a 16” ?
Found it on the street 10 years ago, still works, my son finds it much fun, he is just starting learning to read!
S2+ with a qlite (mtne) + 7 7135s (double) 16mm XHP50 U4 1C 2 keeppower 750s. You can’t keep it on high very long but it sure will give you a laugh. L/MedHigh/TurboHigh. A LOT of light. I am still laughing. Carry some batteries for backup! File, file, and file the driver retaining ring. Everyone should have at least one.
I learned to type on one of those, over 40 years ago. The letters were worn off the keys, still have it as a matter of fact. Now I have to go look to see if it was a Remington or an Underwood….
I’m having a hard time not to write something like: if you show me yours ……….
I found it somewhere eating dust and disassembled and cleaned every last detail of it.
Then I lend it to my kid-brother so he could write his thesis. Got it back a short while ago.
Apparently he could not be bothered to put a cloth over it :person_facepalming: :rage:
I tried a 219C on a filed Noctigon in my Olight S2…that was a fail !
Artifacts everywhere in the beam, the TIR does not focus the light properly
So I swapped the stock CW emitter for a nice warm T4-7A and called it a day…
No MCPCB at all, it’s just a bare LED with a tiny copper block soldered onto the thermal pad & rigid wires directly to the emitter.
Stuffed a bit of that silicone cube stuff around it too but there’s really not much current to cause much heat. I should have took pics and measured current, but i didn’t :laughing:
This one was a little more difficult, i accidently dedomed the XR-C while working on it so i’ve covered it with UV setting glass glue for protection.
I’m obviously running out of lights to mod, down to nitecore tubes now… :laughing:
I just fried a dedomed xpg2 (I hope it was just the LED….). I spent the last few hours modding a UF-1508 aspheric with a dd xpg2 and a 5.5A MTNMAX driver. The 1508 has a bit of an odd pill and a threaded parabolic piece that screws down onto the mcpcb. After several failed attempts at getting the LED leads soldered flat enough I switched over to flat copper sheet. It worked eventually, just a pain to work with such tiny pieces of metal. So I screw down the securing piece to secure the mcpcb and I think to myself “don’t forget to pull this back off before testing”……… I hook up the driver pop in two cells and a flash of light followed by utter disappointment as I instantly realized my mistake. :person_facepalming:
I put a stacked resistor on an L2 and forgot about reflector clearance when soldering the leads back in, shorted it and fried the driver. I did have Kapton tape on the base of the reflector, but it tore. I’ll be happier with the Bistro driver anyway… Still, was hoping to find out what the stock driver was capable of.
Still, was hoping to find out what the stock driver was capable of.