What did you mod today?

Geez the entire dome, might be a stretch. Perhaps just try very light magenta at first and not for long. That way you can wipe it off before it gets somewhat caked on.

I can’t speak for other inks but the HP stuff is top shelf. Inkjet inks are actually sort of quasi-vaporized as part of being deposited onto papper/media so (I’m hoping) heat isn’t a problem.

Nnnnnnoooonononono, nono. I mean just ink a band around the periphery of the dome, not the whole thing. Ie, similar to your “collar” but done directly on the dome itself vs a separate doodad.

Picture your collar as a piece of heatshrink tubing, and shrink it in-place so that it just wraps around the bottom of the dome nearest the mcpcb. Like that, only done in ink vs tubing.

Doing the whole dome would also color the spill and everything else. Talk about a “rosy” tint…

Oh, my mistake, I think Magenta Collarring could help. That’s exactly what I did with the XP-G3 (photo in earlier post).

It doesn’t show in the photo because it’s on the slightly more vertical part of the dome curve but the magenta reflection at the base of the reflector is from the tinted thin band/stipe maybe 1 mm directly around the base of the emitter dome. The theory of the case being a green filter of the stray horizonal light responsible for green-tint shift.

Do post any before & afters with your trials. The more experience with different emitter/reflector configurations, the better.

Obviously with a de-domed emitter, there’s no dome to tint so no help there.

Actually, if it’s the thicker layer of phosphor around the sides that’s yellowing the beam, de-greening it by painting “the sides of the box” might in fact help tremendously.

I wonder if the printer ink will melt and run around inside your light if you run the light on turbo for awhile.

Anything’s possible so modders be warned.

BUT, fortunately it hasn’t happen (yet) on the lights I’ve tried, whereas my earlier attempt with a separate plastic collar melted. And, a miniscule amount of ink is used. I probably gave the wrong impressions when I previously mentioned the ink “caking”, misleading choice of words. Really I mean the ink drying out on the dome material.

The coloration should really be just a clear, almost like AR lens coating, tint and not an opaque layer.

I modded a C8+ Desert Tan with a white flat, warm white/gold lighted tail switch, and LD-A4 driver 5A from led4power.com. It's a mini light saber! I don't have the exact figures but it looks like it easily beats my L2 with a MTN buck driver 5.1A driving a XP-L HI. Next I will put a white flat in the L2…

Here’s a couple of images of my C8+

B158B 4,55A 13x7135 driver: 345500cd

Same driver and led in Convoy C8+: 209000 cd

Same driver and led in Eagle eye X6(still need some focusing because I’m not happy with numbers): 117000 cd

Very nice :heart_eyes: I had considered this before but never followed through with it. Nice to know it can be done :+1:

First post, but - as per zak.wilson’s post re: Wowtac A2S and LH351D (SPHWHTL3DA0GF4RTS6), I did an emitter swap today. Didn’t think to take too many photos as I had some time pressure, but I think I did it the hard way - removed the battery terminal end, desoldered, and then took the emitter board out, and swapped it. Really should take beamshots…

I really should have thought that one out longer. There had to be a better way to remove the board. Resoldering the four wires from switch and emitter was NOT fun.

Thanks! And interesting: my clear C8 with dedomed XP-G2 S4 2B does 180kcd, so that is 16% improvement for the white flat. My B158 with XP-G2 S4 2B does 322kcd, so that is 7% improvement. So YMMV probably depending on individual led differences.

And it also can be more or less difference because of measurements error. And the XP-G2 only make that performance fully charged. Osram can maintain better when battery depletes because of low forward voltage

Modded Q8 with Luxeon MZ: led4power
And in 2nd step I bridged the springs.
Stock LED: 5200 Lumen
Stock LED Bypass: 6500 Lumen
Luxeon MZ: 7000 Lumen
Luxeon MZ Bypass: 10000 Lumen

I noticed no stepdown but the flashlight was realy hot.

4 donuts? or it’s just too bright to notice? :slight_smile:

Well I reckon I’m gonna have to get an image hosting service so I can post pics of my project. Who says P60 is dead? I started with a 2” diameter 6061 aluminum barstock today and started boring and threading some parts together, using an old infared P60 dropin for the dimensions. The plan is to have a triple emitter P60 built by someone since electronics arent my strong point, and my host is to be heavily finned and slotted for heat dispersion. Its coming along well but I havent decided on a dropin yet. Really it depends on how much the wife lets me spend haha. May have to get a cheaper one from Kaidomain for now and wait on a Sky Lumens or PflexPro for later. Boring the body for 26650 and a sleeve for 18650 option. My first flashlight build but Ive been machining for my entire life.

That's pretty insane! 10K lumens at 90 CRI in a Q8. The spring bypasses made a huge difference. I thought the dual springs were better than that, but I always pull the inside ones and replace with a bypass.

That must be 8+ amps per LED. Did you need anything special for centering, or drilling out the reflector holes?

I have a quad MZ that I measured at 28 amps on a single 18650. You can bet this is pulling at least 8 per

Please provide us more info if you could. Did you measure throw? How's the beam - does it have a significant hole? Are those 10K at startup and calibrated with maukka lights?

@TomE, don’t forget the dual springs are still made of steel.

Steel wire has extremely high resistance compared to copper alloys, even in a dual spring setup.

One advantage they have is that they limit current if the cells get into a short.

A dual BeCu spring setup in a short, if they do not fail due to heat, can actually be dangerous to the user.

Re-modded a Convoy S8 shorty today with a 1mm2 White Flat, BLF-A6 driver with brass post (no tail spring bypass), and a lighted tail with 660nm 0603 leds. I messed a lot with a centerpiece that did not work well, and it appeared that the stock reflector was very poor so after a change to a different one the beam was much better. One centerpiece and one reflector later, and an in the meantime rather battered led I got the focus right and it measures 41 kcd now with a great clean hotspot :sunglasses:

The 660nm leds give a nice almost crimson red but appear not very bright because the human eye can hardly see that wavelength. They should be great in the Fireflies E07 that I’m going to order sometime in the future.

Roof tops are at 50 meter