Nice version, contactcr! And you ended up only very slightly above the BBL. At what current was the tint measurement?
And are you happy with the result?
The previous one was turbo using a Samsung 50E
This is 3x7135 default mode when you screw on cap. I had anywhere from .0014 to .0019 in this mode
The tint shift from SST-20ās really bothers me so this is a nice result in my opinion. Essentially the same results across the entire output range. The hot spot is much wider now so no more āpointingā with the light. Gotta adjust your use case I suppose. The light heats up the body nicely now so the MCPCB was a success as well.
I legoed my S43 (modded with LHD351D) with an SS bezel and body from an S42S and I think it came out pretty dope.
I also sanded the bezel in order to remove the old S42 logo.
Iām not fond of the S43, but I must admit that you make it look much better!
A colourful lighted tail for my Supfire S1 EDC with 4000K LuxeonV led and BLF-A6 driver. Looks better in reality, the camera does not capture 470nm, 500nm and 660nm even close to correct.
470 Ohm bleeder on the driver
470 nm led + 22K resistor
500 nm led + 33K resistor
600 nm led + 6.8K resistor
625 nm led + 12K resistor
660 nm led + 6.8K resistor
PCpink led + 22K resistor
The tail draws 0.86 mA current, a 700mAh 16340 battery will be drained in about a month. Because I carry and use it every day, the battery is recharged way sooner than that.
The picture overflowethā¦
ā¦that can be rectified
Thank you. I usually resize images, but didnāt do it this time.
Some flash copper solution that I managed to make myself, a zincate solution.
Iām now ready to copper plate lights 
Swapped the Oslon white flat I had in my Jetbeam RRT-01 2019 for an XPL HI 5000k. The beam isnāt as throwy, but I like the better tint, extra lumens, and spill.
Also swapped the LEDs in my Jetbeam TCR-01 triple for 3 Oslon flat whites. GAAAAAHā¦ā¦ what an ugly beam!!! 
Oslon flats are nice emitters for max throw at low current, but clearly they donāt belong in a small triple.
What optic?
I just put a Nichia 219B in a TC-R1.
Super nice light, looks much better than the newer jetbeam imo.
All it needs now is an accompanying beam shotā¦ 
Firelight, I was thinking about putting 7 White Flats in an E07, bad idea?
Killed a Wowtac A2S (dogfarts edition) today. Was getting flickering on turbo so went to re-soled wires with something thicker, but itās just too damn fiddly and I donāt have silicone coated wire. And now Iāve lifted a trace from the driver board. Still works when put together outside the case, but is a nightmare to get back in and running,
Wonder if Wowtac will sell a driver board, or if Iām SOL 
Pre-tin new wires and use a tiny amount of flux paste on the driver and wire end. I donāt always do this but anytime I feel like the wire might not want to cooperate or i have a small spot to work with this seems to get the job done twice as fast without overheating any tiny components.
The center SST-40 died once more, so I rebuilt Hamār once again. This time some things have changedā¦ we now have a 3V 50.2 to play with! 
So, essentially the center emitter is a quad in itās own right now and that means there are 20 dies in Hamārs somewhat quirky head. And now, with my meter calibrated and my lumens numbers somewhat lower than they used to be, it reads 21,200 lumens in Turbo and 17,000 lumens at the top of the ramp. Turning it on after a cell change it does 7000 lumens at the full 7135 chip setting. Canāt complain about that!
Cheers, Iāve never been good at remembering flux. Getting the iron in the opening is a nightmare, so Iām almost on the āwell there goes $60ā train. I might try and contact Wowtac and hope for the best though. Although not like doing the same with Olight got me anywhere, sigh.
You could also try Thrunite, itās the same driver. Thrunite has always been good to me.
My TCR-01 is currently sporting a Noctigon triple star and a Carclo 10507 optic.
The reflector compartment in the TCR-01 has a handy ledge in it just big enough for a slightly filed down 20mm triple Noctigon. And itās just at the right height for a standard Carclo star without lens. Slather on some Arctic Silver 5 on the sides of the compartment around the ledge, insert star and youāre good too go as a triple. Might need to lengthen the driver wires slightly I think.
That said, Iām thinking of converting this back to a single-emitter light. It was really cool when I made this light a triple several years ago. But now that Iāve experienced high-power FET driven triples and quads, the low-power driver in the Jetbeam just isnāt ideal for a triple.
Based on what I saw with my triple TCR-01 I suspect 7 White Flats in an E07 wonāt produce a very attractive beam. In my TCR-01, I get a narrow hotspot as expected, but it also has less throw and spill than a single-emitter XPL HI in the same light. And the beam with the White Flats is cool tint and very ringy.
Also, I tried a white flat in a 1x14500 zoomie with FET driver and the beam turned blue and dimmed almost instantly. Granted this was with an unusual star where I have the LED mounted on a narrow pillar the same width as the LED made of 4 strips of copper and arctic alumina. The LED sits on the pillar and the pillar sits on the Noctigon.
This setup isnāt as good at removing heat as sitting the emitter directly on the Noctigon, but I wasnāt encouraged by seeing the beam turn blue in a fairly low-powered setup, especially when other LEDS like XPL HI and SST20 worked fine in the same setup. Iām not sure 7 white flats in an E07 will even work at full FET.
Best use for the White Flat seems to be when you want max throw and are willing to sacrifice beam pattern, tint, lumens and CRI to get it. It actually worked pretty well in the new 2019 RRT-01. The low-powered driver wasnāt enough to damage the emitter, and it produced good throw with the small smooth reflector (Vinh measured a similar RRT-01 at 400 lumens and 30k lux).
One tip for anyone working with White Flat: the pads at the bottom donāt quite line up exactly right with a Noctigon XP star. You may have to move the emitters back and forth a few times during reflow to confirm that neither positive or negative is accidentally connected to the central heatsink bondpad. With White Flat, I recommend using a multimeter to check your star prior after reflow prior to installing it in your light.
Agreed. The old RRT-01 and TCR-01 look better than the new 2019 RRT-01 in my opinion.
The older models also feature better feeling rings, are lighter weight which is better for pocket EDC, and have a more cylindrical shape which feels better in the pocket.
I think the new versionās driver may be slightly higher powered though. I wonder if the drivers are identical in shape. Maybe I should pull the driver out of my 2019 RRT-01 and install it in my TCR01.
I got an interesting light today, itās from Ludicrous Lumens in Great Britain. The Night Saber Alpha with 67mm aspheric and a pistol grip that houses 2S 18650ās. This came with an XM-L2 but is only on/off, no modes. Didnāt take me long to get a White Flat in it with an LD-4A 6A driver. 345Kcd using a Samsung 30Q and a dummy cell. Pretty neat, physical build is decent enough but the electronics and lack of o-rings is depressing.
Nice enough once it gets some new quality hardware, not really worth the price as shipped though, in my opinion.
Thanks so much - although Iām looking at their website and their right-angle headlamps appear to be XHP70.2 and XHP35 HI, is it the TH20 driver? Feeling pretty dumb right about now.