https://led4power.com/product/osram-kw-culnm1-tg-1mm2-die-bare/
Currently only 29 in stock left. I wonder if he can get new stock after these are sold out.
I just put a boost HL in a Cometa and the everything but fully zoomed in is disgusting, unreal amount of artifacts.
any different between Osram Boost HL vs Flat White?
Itâs the same in every way except for the 4040 footprint instead of 3030 which gives it a bit better thermal performance.
My Jaxman Z1 with the Boost HL looks fantastic. Guess the copies don't hold up?
All the other leds iâve tried in it look fine.
It is the small size of the die that sharpens any irregularity of the lens, I bet a dedomed XP-E2 will produce the same result.
There was a thing about different batches of the Cometa having a different quality lens. My Cometaâs from the recent ditch-sale of BG have wonderful lenses.
^ my 1mm2 white flat looks pretty mediocre in flood mode in my Z1 but tbh I would never use it as such. I wish a host as good as the Z1 with fixed aspheric existed and I would use that instead.
Both of mine came from those.
The zoomed in beam is already impressive though, can see it indoors with the lights on. will have to wait for it to get dark to see the real effect.
From what I have gathered (and I was not around at the time), Jaxman Z1 lenses were purchased (under the guise of replacement parts) for use in some of the Cometas. Other than that, my understanding is the lenses are much worse. In fact, to see how Jaxman feels about it, you can search for "Banggood" in the Jaxman user's comment history.
The wide-flood with my Boost HL isn't perfect, but it's pretty even. And that's with my silly white centering ring. I had calluses on both thumbs and index fingers for a couple days after from reaming that centering ring...
Itâs the lens. Itâs always the lens.
The Z1 has a real glass lens, really nice, and the Cometa unfortunately has a plastic lens. Slight imperfections on the lens will always throw rings here and there.
Even on a Horton(?) aspheric I got from Illumn for a â502, itâs a glass lens but has an ever-so-shallow âbellybuttonâ on the top, a flattened spot right at the peak that gives a really truly horrible beam when zoomed as to be worse than useless, actually offensive to look at.
The lens needs that hollow-frustrum spacer to hold it in-place, else I wouldâve just wedged the LED right up against it for a nice wiiiiide flood. Alas, not simple (enough) so 2 sets of lenses and spacers were just a waste.
Itâs always the lensâŚ
I donât think theyâre plastic, they donât melt or char when held in a flame.
My cometa had a glass lens. I now because it had a small glass shard broken off.
Maybe I had an âillegalâ Z1 lens in it.
On the Cometa? Iâll have to check again when I get home, but Iâm pretty sure they are, at least on mine. Very lightweight for the size, and the tap-test kinda indicated to me âplasticâ.
All mine have various âsmearsâ when fully zoomed (ie, projecting The Bat Signal). Eg, make a drawing of the LED die with fresh ink, and rub the image with your finger to put a light âsmearâ in 1 or 2 different directions.
At first I thought the lens wasnât seated right, wasnât perfectly clean, etc., but after cleaning both sides meticulously (no oily residue, not even any leftover lint), and making sure it was seated perfectly flush with the bezel, they all still had/have the same âsmearsâ.
Mineâs glass too, AR-coated, and the one imperfection it has is a very slight ânubâ on top of the convex side. (I think someone else reported that here too.) It means a small-ish fraction of the light die is out of focus, and will produce a slight âhaloâ or even smear when the lens isnât perfectly centered.
âFlush with the bezelâ is also a bit murky. Mine had ~0.5 mm play radially, meaning you could shift the lens around when not fully tightened, and any centering got messed up by tightening the bezel, most of the time.
It was a pain in the ass to do this every time, so I turned a very shallow step in the face the lens sits against, itâs got zero play now, and now at least that halo is right around the die image and not outside of it.
I think with cast PMMA lenses such defects are easier to avoid for the manufacturer, with the much lower temperatures and all that. In terms of beam quality (not durability) I wouldnât give a hard pass to PMMA lenses.
I think some had plastic, or maybe polycarbonate? lenses. I think there was also a clone-of-a-clone cometa clone at some point, but I'm not really sure. It doesn't help that, from what I can scrounge up, some of the Z1/Cometa history involves a failed group buy and a now-banned user...
My Jaxman also came with a properly-fitting, Jaxman-branded dust cover. Especially great after seeing someone else recently ordered a dust cover for their Cometa that ended up not fitting.
A D4 âwhiteâ, that has been de-anodized. Then metal polished, as much as my patience could take 
XP-L HI V2-3A 5000K emitters in that shiny little beast.
Sharp!
Itâs on Lexelâs updated driver picture that he recently posted. Just pm him for a quote on a 22mm FET+6+1 driver with Anduril. I simply soldered a small phosfor-bronze spring to the driver. When itâs fully compressed it sits a tiny bit higher than the AMC chips. Then I soldered the switch and LED wires and the driver dropped in perfectly. The tube sits on the driver ground ring with space to spare and the cell is basically a hairâs width above the AMC chips that sits on the spring side of the driver. No spacers were required for the cap to close completely. I highly recommend this mod to anyone with a D4. Oh, and I requested that he should preprogram the firmware so that max ramp is already at max AMC current. I tested it and it measured 2.46A at the tailâŚâŚ So it has a fully regulated ramp that is quite bright depending on which LEDâs you use obviously.