Not so much of a modbut the start of a build
using xhp50 and a mountain driver.2 x 18500 for power.
planning on making 2 x 18650 tubes as well; using a op 42mm
reflector, hopefully I will be able to use this for a while
,will see how it goes.
roughed out the head, tube and tailcap
will probably take a month to finish . :question:
Sorry forgot to resize
Its not to late to resize the picture. Looking good mate. I’m not sure why its going to take a month to finish though. It looks like its nearly finished. 
Yeah, it’s kinda blowing the perspective on my iPad all out of sorts.
Thanks
Very nice lostheplot 
op fixed.
the hold up may be the delivery of parts
thanks for the comments
Recut the emitter shelf in a new Convoy L6 to accept a 31mm MaxToch copper DTP mcpcb for a new top level XHP-70 from Cutter. P2 1C binning, rated at 1830 lumens as compared to 1710? of the N4. Then I did a wee bump on the driver by stacking a R140 on top of the two R082 sense resistors (reducing resistance from .041 to .031) for an increase tail amperage reading from 4.83A to 6.33A, it’s now doing 4505 lumens out the front. Sweet! The L6 is a very nice light, love the design and overall perspectives of it, Simon nailed it with the reflector, no donut hole, good hot spot area from the big 4die emitter, gotta love that, his first (I think) in this arena and very well done.
Its good to hear that the stock driver on the L6 is easy for current modding, i might completely bridge those resistors for maximum current
Not sure that you could call this (polishing some S2+ triple spacers) a mod, but I like how they turned out, not 100% perfect but with tools that I have can’t do better…
Wow, great polishing job, love that shiny copper :heart_eyes:
In my experience, a mirror finish is not really needed for great heat transfer: flat=essential, fine sanded is helpful, shiny=great-looking but not noticably better than a fine sanded surface.
But do not let that stop anyone making those bling surfaces please
Already did that last week, but here’s a video of sanding the inside of my polystyrene integrating sphere #4 (build thread via my sigline). Even though it is a 5 minute job, I had not done that yet. It improves integration of the sphere quite a bit (the reflection becomes closer to true Lambertian) by removing the shiny surface of the polystyrene.
I know, I know, but it was enjoyable making them all shiny, If I had a mini lathe like Proxxon 24400 and maybe some small mill I would spend all my free time making something,
Wow. Lambertian! How did you know I looked that word up in the dictionary just last week?
Really! Luxeon is always using it.
It is one word that describes a phenomenon that without it takes a sentence to describe it.
Which just took that sentence anyway… just sayin
One humble mod this weekend. Removed the XM-L 2 or 3 something and put in a much warmer XM-L2 4C in my newly acquired BLF A8. Looks much better now!
I failed on my other mod, I need to pay someone to stack some 7135’s on a board for me. I could not get the solder to flow no matter what I tried!
Well, my experience doin a ton of 7135's (just did 18 stacked on Richard's SRK V2), is plenty of flux, use a small wedge iron tip, pre-solder the tip, hold a sec or 2 on the bottom, then gently strokes upward til it flows.
Same thing Tom says, only I never use flux. 
I do use flux core solder though. .031 I think, Kester.
I had flux everywhere and my iron on about 700 with good kester solder. I did not want to cook anything since this driver is not one I can just build. Odd size and shape, so I gave up for now. They are so packed in and I am just not that steady.
Oh boy, it is odd, but I'd have no problem. I use the bent pin method, driver in a bench top vise, and hold the top 7135 in place with a tweezer or needlenose in one hand, iron in the other. Also helps if the board is in the vise slanted down away to let gravity help you.