What did you mod today?

Modded an empty bottle of my favorite rum into some X-mas lighting.

Put a lighted tailcap on my brandnew Panda White Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 HM.

And made this light available in my 3k post GAW.

Fitted a 5a 2s mantaray driver into a jax Z1 with a nice 80 CRI MT-G2 for the ultimate flooder

Love seeing the MT-G2 getting some attention! Sweet!

Copper Tool
installed E21a 3500k and fully captive clip

due to a series of mishaps, and unanticipated outcomes,

the clip now fits in my preferred hat lamp orientation

2 cheap eBay lights with 2 cheap eBay LED's, yes I was bored.

Pretty vintage led now . but i still prefer it to the Bill Gates summoning Xhp70.2, im not sure what the lumen count is at 5 amps but it certainly lights a nice area

I still have multiple lights with MT-G2, including a triple that I built from scratch. Love the tint this big emitter makes and surprisingly enough it can have a nice beam profile in the right reflector. :wink: Also have an old BTU Shocker that I fitted with MT-G2’s, in this light there is a defined hot spot that is surprisingly small… really do love em! :smiley:

Edit: Was forgetting about the massive TrustFire TR-J20 that I built a huge heat sink for and fitted with 4 MT-G2’s… it’s making almost 15,000 lumens while the other two big ones are in the 10,000 to 12,000 range. Yup, really do love the MT-G2 and like seeing it being put to use. :wink:

Edit II:

I have 19 MT-G2’s in use, in (I think) 12 flashlights. Probably forgetting something…

Very nice work, I bet they really kick it out!! I like the 5k 80cri it really isnt far behind the xhp70 when driven hard but the tint is just so much nicer almost like real daylight

I have the MT-G2 in a lot of very different lights, such as the Nitecore TM-03, a 2D Maglite with a fiber optic battery indicator, a Lucky Sun D80, Solarforce K3, S2200, M8, and C2000 , as well as my DBC-05 triple, the BTU Shocker, and the TR-J20. Also have a hybrid TIR over an MT-G2 in an L6. And of course, I have an X6 with the fat MT-G2 and an extension tube. :slight_smile:

One of the major differences is the array status of the big emitter, it’s almost like a COB really. So the quality of the light is due to the 72 small die surfaces most likely. When I was building the M8 I didn’t have a suitable driver back then so I ran it literally direct drive, it would pull just over 16A at about 4300 lumens. Ah, the good ol days! lol

Probably funny questions, but I’m still too young here.

I have this flashlight disassembled for a long time because I don’t know how to do heat dissipation well. Do you have any great solution or did you leave it as is?

There was an extension tube for X6?

I made a heat sink for the K3.

I was one of the team on the X6 group buy, there were a few extension tubes made for the team. They missed the length but I have worked around that… interestingly enough that was another Neal failure, not only was the length wrong but the MT-G2’s he sent for me to build team lights were also wrong… he sent 9V instead of 6V MT-G2’s.

Yep—- MT-G2 is Really Nice— I have several lights myself—-one of my oldie but goodies — Supbeam K40M with a 4k

Ooo those 4k jobs are like rocking horse poop these days! cant find them anywhere

:weary: With frustrations of the W1 not staying centered in my D1S. It recieved a SST-20 3500k.
Biting my nails waiting for a K1 to arrive anyway.

I’ve had this light forever. I like the host, but the multi led head wasn’t cutting it for me. I’d been thinking about modding it and happened to realize one day that it was really darn close to fitting a P60. So a cheap P60 from mtn electronics with a 8x7135 driver and a Nichia 219c were made to fit. Had to do some filing on the reflector, but it works beautifully now.

Snap-on would be jealous of your new and improved flashlight! Nice job Yacob29.

I definitely enjoyed the irony of improving a snap on product!

Modified two cheapo lights with better leds, they both came with XPE leds (at least they look like it, they maybe clones but who cares they are out now) and they were with very angry blue tint, probably 7000k.

Considering the price the build quality is okay, the lens are plastic and there is no shelf but it does not matter, after all it is cheap AAA light with probably 50ish lumens at best.

One of them got Cree XP-G2 S3 3D that i had laying around from my Noctigon Meteor and the other one received Nichia 219c 2700k 90cri led, yeah i know that Nichia is worth more money than the light itself lol.

In a previous post about my Olight S1R Baton II aux LED mod I complained about the protruding center charging contact that drains the battery when placed on a flat, metal surface and also affects the tailstand stability. Today I took this “light that I do not want” and tried to fix this issue.

To my surprise the tailcap/end of the flashlight was relatively easy to disassemble. I didn’t expect this from a shiny, bling-bling, mass market, “premium” flashlight. But I have to say that the flashlight is engineered really well. They could have made a really awesome flashlight with just a high CRI LED.

Here are the parts of the tailcap/end laid out:

From left to right we have:

  • Plastic (!) retaining ring that keeps everything at the right place
  • PCB with the outer spring and central contact on the back; a curved spring washer contact on the front which makes contact with the tube. Also the riveted central pin that is visible from the outside. (Wait – that pin in negative, but the center of the battery is positive! This means that the rivet and the ring shaped inner contact, that are less than 1 mm apart from each other, have different polarity! But it should be protected by the circuit.) There are also two chips and a few resistors.
  • O-ring that sits around the central pin
  • A plastic spacer that is slid over the contact and o-ring
  • The magnet that sits around the plastic spacer
  • Another o-ring that seals the top of the plastic spacer with the hole in the flashlight case

The two chips are labeled “2408 LV15” (probably a AON2408 n-channel MOSFET in DFN package) and “12B” (don’t know what it is). The traces are not visible under the black solder mask.

And now to the fix for the protruding contact: I made a plastic washer, inner diameter 5 mm, outer diameter 8 mm and a thickness of 0.4 mm. This washer is placed around the riveted pin, then everything else is put on top. The o-ring seal should still work, but the contact does not protrude as much as before anymore. 0.6 mm might have been better (it still makes contact with a flat surface, but is at the same height as the outer, silver ring). To put everything back in the tube I used a PVC pipe. This also helps to press the retaining ring far enough.