What did you mod today?

For a German TLF member MF01 v1 modded full way to MF01S
Rainbow Aux (green high LEDs off in this picture)

Manker U23 SBT90.2

with the LED a bit trimmed to fit and hand wired and glued aux LEDs

Wow :open_mouth: that looks awesome :heart_eyes:

A few weeks back I had a failed attempt to mod. Pried it open to hopefully answer some questions regarding the Manker E02.

Very interesting. :slight_smile:
Looks like the LED thermal pad is not a part of a PCB but a separate pillar.
And the piece of copper that contains the pillar seems to have another post. Does it cool something else? Or does it heat up the thermal sensor?

I don’t know the answer to that sorry. I took a more close up shot if that helps.

Orsm work pp. :beer:

I changed the leds in EDC18 to sst20 J2 JA3 2700k and switch led to pink. I had to change resistor to 10k. With the default resistor it was too bright.
I also changed the LEDs in my D4, which is my edc to 319A 3500k. For me the tint is perfect. It is perfectly warm, creamy and slightly pink.

CvP, Very nice!

My 7th OL build was starting to patina a little…. which meant darker copper…. which meant harder to distinguish the pattern. So I bathed it in some chemicals to freshen up the copper :smiley:

I didn’t get a before shot so the most recent shot of the light is this one

After ….

When looking at it for a glimpse, it reminded me the pattern of a fire salamander :wink:
Great small light indeed :wink:

Sweet. Looks like the colour copper goes when its annealed and let cool.

Sweet :beer:
Do you have a pic of how you wired of those tiny leds ?

i want that rabit!

could that rabbitbe done to a fw3a?

I’ve become a bit of a tint snob so I changed the emitter on my EDC thrunite T10. The dedomed XPG2 S4 2B was just too green so I looked for other suitable emitters. I wanted to stay with a 2mm^2 emitter to keep the beam size and ability to throw a bit without too much current. Based on my experience and some research I decided to try a dedomed XPG2 1D which I ordered from fasttech. I also switched back to the stock reflector from the TIR I had been using.

I’m very pleased with the tint. It is 5000ish K and very neutral. In the picture below the left beam is a S2 triple dedomed XPG2 S4 2B, the center is the dedomed XPG2 1D, and the right beam is a S2+ with XPL HI 3D. The XPL HI 3D is noticably more rosy. Not sure if the dedomed 1D is above the BBL but it’s very close to neutral.

Olight S1R NW (left):

XM-L2 at about 5000K. Really nice color, previously installed one in the V11R, too :slight_smile:

It’s a FW3A with Lexel’s rainbow aux board.

Comparision with turbo glows:

The biggest gripe was that the aux board does not fit MCPCB installed in my sample.

The hole underneath noctigon triple had to be drilled.

When I was at it, SST-20 FD2 were installed.

Original (not carclo) optic stays for now, since it’s a bit more floody.

Album with all pictures

Beautiful colours! :+1:

I had a bit of a scary experience after modding a S2 with a 2mm WF. I soldered the LED to an XP board and it was fine. I put the light together with one of convoys “ramping” linear drivers. The light was working great and I had been playing around with it for a bit.

I then was adjusting the brightness of one of the modes which with this driver involves ramping the brightness slowly up through the max current which is 7-8A, so the light naturally gets a bit hot during this process. At the end of the ramp it starts again at the low modes. It was here that I realized the light was still getting hot, like very burny hot, as if there was a short, but it was still producing light. I quickly turned it off and unscrewed the tail cap.

I immediately did a very short current test with a clamp meter and it was over 20A, and still producing light. I looked for the usual suspects: reflector shorting the pos LED wire, pos wire cut by spinning MCPCB, with this driver the positive solder point is close to the edge of the driver so I thought that was a potential source.

It turns out the short was at the LED footprint between positive and ground. I measured it the next day at room temperature and it was 20 Ohms. Apparently at high temperature the short greatly decreased in resistance enough to pass a lot of current, but not enough to totally short the LED and shut the light off.

Has anyone experienced this before?

Nice investigation!

I have not had that, but I sometimes feel like when I measure a current, that the output should be higher at that current, a mild short under the led could explain that. But more likely my hopes for a led and the optical efficiency of a flashlight are consistently too high :person_facepalming: