Damn! :person_facepalming: Now thatās a Heavy WEIGHT! WOW! :+1:
4040 lumens from the domed U4 1Aās, on 3 freshly charged Efest 35A button tops.
3.47 lbs with all 3 cells in place.
Heavy? About the same as my 1DsMkII body, or the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS lens. Couple those 2 pieces together and add a flash unit with 4 AA cells and brackets, makes the Shocker a keychain light. 
I donāt want to take up a lot of room in this thread, but I need a few thoughts on this matter.
Iāve been thinking about building a small 7 LED (Luxeon Rebel) light with a single 18650.
Is this asking too much from a single cell? What kind of runtime would this thing have?
Well, I canāt say that today was successful moding day.
Since this new fet drivers are quite expensive I returned to our old well proven solution = add more AMC chips to NANJG 105C driver but after adding 3 of them (so 11 in total) I was not even above 3A and it should have been close to 4A, and my soldering was just fine, donāt have a clue what happened but I am not happy 
Time for bedā¦
Bored out the battery tube on my Sunwayman V11R for 18350.
OOPS! Went through the side of the tube at one of the two inset grooves. My technique with a grinding bit and hand drill needs work. Fixed the error by gluing a piece of bare aluminum into each of the grooves.
Not quite what I intended, but it still looks ok and now works with an 18350.
Any pics ?
argh
I want to reflow 3 XML2 NW on a SRK board
just putting t on the stove and the LBs came off leaving a nice thin layer of solder.
So I hope to be able to use that.
BUT i cannot find anywhere what side t the leds are + and -
There is a little dot in a corner so I think that is the mark and positive (pacing that edge to the + side) feels logical.
BUT is it?
I always just go by the bond wires, theyāre positive. Easy to see em in thereā¦. there are a few emitters this doesnāt work and the datasheet is necessary, like the XP-G3 and Nichia 219C, MT-G2, and XHP series.
ah thanks!
And the bond wires arenāt always the same sideā¦ One of them is opposite from the rest, XP-L maybe? When Iām in doubt, I just google a picture of whatever emitter it is and look which way the bond wires are pointed in the picture.
edit: I just checked: first gen emitters (XP-G, XM-L, XP-E) the bond wires are negative. 2nd gen (XP-G2, XP-E2, XM-L2, XP-L) the bond wires are positive. That was where I got it mixed up. But I still never remember that, I almost always have to google a picture to remind me. :face_with_monocle:
But these days itās hard enough to get a 1st generation 2nd generation emitter! 
(back when theyād do the amps)
Checking datasheets is always a good idea, kind of in the measure twice cut once theme.
Diode tester on any DMM will light the emitter when in the right polarity also 
Today it was a productive dayā¦
Blf X5 , quad xp-g3 s4 3a
Blf X6 , triple xpl hi v2 1a
I had only cute-3 medium optics available , so i used them , and probably i will switch later .
And a group photo :
Whatād you do to that Noctigon?
I had to grind it a little to fit , but i did it a little more , so my DMM showed continuity between the copper and the negative ā¦.
And guess what , i couldnāt find the spot there was a short, it was the last piece of trace i cut .
Long story short , it was my last xp32 board ā¦. But it has enough traces to handle 5A per emitter .
giorgo, for future reference, if you drill the center hole first you can then mount it on a bolt and spin it in a drill to file it down to fit, cleaner work, truer circle. Then with a file or a piece of sandpaper you can put a bevel on the top edge to separate the trace and masking from the ground underneath, doesnāt take much of a bevel for the angle to get separation and avoid a short. I use the scissors tip to cut this bevel on the edge of the center hole, for separation and to ensure the wire insulation isnāt cut.
Nice work, great lights huh? 
I really love the triple X6, an all time favorite of mine.
X6 is awesome , a lot of lumens and great runtimes without the feel your hand will catch fire , but i should get the cute-s optics asap .
X5 puts a ton of light out there for its size , and quite tricky the tint of the xp-g3 . Itās cooler in the middle !
I have been collecting the different pieces to mod them over 2 months , and finally they are almost ready .
A lot of people helped me , including you Dale , with your detailed answers. Thanks
After some dirty soldering DONE
NICE tinted SRK wth smart UI (long press high, short press moon)
it just started to flcker on high after a while, hmm seems like I need to open it up again
"Totally out of Kester solder paste, and Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive as well. So I used the old MG paste and the stars are being permanently affixed with JB Weld as I type this."
Are you sure you want to do this? I don't think it is a good idea for future modding/repairs? Maybe you better wait until you can order some more paste.