congrats
what mods produced that result?
If interested in the option to program those Novatac Spa Defense models (they come set up as 120T, but can be changed to 120P configuration), there is info in this thread.
And if you want a Titanium bezel, they are available from RPM (guessing you can make your own too).
.
my latest mod cut the output in half, XP-L to 3000k 219b in a Thrunite T10t (in the middle).
pic is a link to teardown
What are ātheseā?
Fidget Spinners?
Pocket Toys for kids?
Desk Sculptures?
Those are tools for a lathe and milling machine . I am practicing to get good enough to make flashlights , for myself . Canāt seem to get making the small , fine threads I want yet . Iām getting there slowly .
I have found they use 2 different drivers/pillsā¦.
This one/style will get you 500+ (580 tested) lumens
The other style just over 200lms using a 16340 or18350ā¦.I know the 250 click trick alsoā¦
. The stock LED is a real POSā¦
great info!
some of the reflectors differ also
This model of the reflector has more throw and a tighter hotspot.
This model, has the rings in the reflector, that produces a slightly diffused hotspot, with less throw.
Yep these are Triple Candidates ā¦.with a FW3 driverā¦ 
Wow Yes!
Looks like you scored a light w black stainless bezel
NovaClips are hard to come by, but I think HDS clips can work if the hole is reamed out a bit
per Henry:
the Novatac clip hole is 0.950ā
the HDS clip hole is 0.930ā
This is the one I wantā¦ 
Modded an Amutorch AX4 quad to run a FET+1 Anduril driver. Fairly simple mod, stayed with the stock SST-20 4000K's - I thought they look relatively above avg for SST-20 4000K's, smooth tints in the beam, yes - slightly green at low modes, not as much as I've seen from other SST-20's though.
This quad reflector light with SST-20's has a tighter hot spot than triple or quad TIR optics, brighter,maybe wider spill.
AX4 on the right, AX3 on the left, AX2's in the middle. If you didn't know, I'm a fan of the Amutorch lights:
More complete view of my Amutorch collection:
AX4 tear down. Classic driver mounted switch:
Dry style thermal grease - needs to be replaced:
The driver cavity is extremely tight. This quad light is the same length as a FW3A so sacrifices are made. I used the hot air station to removed the ground brass ring off the stock driver. The driver board is CK's design from here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/37376/6600, which turned out to be about perfect fit
Reflowed:
Had to move the switch to the very edge, resulting in the back feet not making contact to the pads. Patched in solder/jumper wire to bridge the gap. tested the switch, then epoxied the switch in place to give it back support, keep from breaking/bending as these switches tend to do:
Didn't end up working reliably. Somewhere between 5-10 clicks, it stops working, the let it cool, get another 5-10 clicks with stopping again. So, got bad solder joint on the patch work, and it's epoxy sealed up now :FACEPALM: (I'm using this moji a lot lately...). Used 36 AWG to patch the patch, taking advantage of the exposed metal tabs near the top of the switch:
All good now! Working well with Anduril, temp calib, voltage calib.
I replaced a low profile driver spring with a brass button, and added a 22 AWG bypass to the tail spring. New 22 AWG LED wires, that are pretty short.
The light does get red hot in a few secs, as expected.
Does about 3000 calibrated lumens at turn on (VTC5D cell), drops quick. I measured 20 kcd throw, taken at 5m. Stock I measured 2500 lumens, 17.5 kcd on the same cell. I'ts not much of a power increase, but getting Anduril on it was the main reason for the mod.
V10r mod to sw45k
pic is a link to teardown
NovaTac 120T Triple XP-L HI - D4UI - 18350 - E-Tail Sw - 2240lm.
Titanium Tool modded for deep pocket clip. Love this light but couldnāt stand the clip that came with it so I made my own. Well Benchmade made the clip, I just made it work with the light lol.
First holes I drilled didnāt work as planned so I just opened the lanyard loop a little(might just remove the loop all together since Iāll never use a lanyard with this one anyway).
It doesnāt tail stand now but this is my work EDC light, tail standing is not in this guyās requirement.
Simple mod: Modded an old early-model grey Emisar D4.
I was hoping to replace the stock SST-20 high CRI with ones of better tint, but turns out I donāt have any with better tint that arenāt already sitting in an FW3A.
Today (when I shouldnāt have been toying with lights)ā¦
Rebuilt my ET G25C2 from a direct drive single mode dedomed XM-L2 making 66kcd >> Convoy 5A driver w/ Bistro and a J5 4000k SST20w from Mouser under a LEDIL IRIS 12077 making 45kcd. I really like it now. The goal for this light was a āfoul-weather-pocket-throwerā. Minimal spill and NW/WW. So far, I think Iāve accomplished my goal. Other CCTs will be tried, but this 4k is looking good under the TIR at ~5A.
Retuned the reflector focus/ centering ring in my Convoy M2 running the 5A/Bistro driver and a 1mm White Flat. Got it mostly centered and mostly artifact free. Iāll perfect it some other day but itās 95% right now. Getting 79kcd at 4.62A. This was a PITA getting this setup tuned in. The M2 reflector/host interface/shelf doesnāt allow it to sit deep enough to focus the WF1. After filing the reflector, I managed to maximize throw, but halos and crescents were everywhere. Then I needed to add an additional o-ring between the glass and the bezel since the stackup height changedā¦.
The 3030 gaskets available today seem to cause a strong halo artifact in the lights that Iāve used them in. I ended up gluing an XP ring in instead, as that yielded a mostly clean beam. I plan on pulling it out and painting it flat black when I get bored again.
18350?
Did you remove the signal spring? What driver are you using?
Yes, you can see a piece of copper that carries the signal. I guess this is what enables 18350 support.
The picture is a link 
Sorry, didnāt notice if the pic is link.
Thanks CRX & Agro 
There have been a few threads pop up lately regarding collars and RLT. Since Iāve been locked down in the house I thought Iād experiment a little with a UF-1504. So, this whole project probably took no longer than 20 minutes. Sanded both ends of a Maglight AA Mini reflector as it was the smallest reflector I was willing to destroy. Obviously not spherical, but it looked pretty close. I didnāt bother smoothing out the sandmarks as you can see. Put a coat of flat black paint on the outside.
I did no tuning or calibrating or anything like that. Just sanded it and guessed it looked about right. Light has a dedomed XPG. Took readings at 10 meters with an HS1010.
Without collar: 308 kcd
With collar: 384 kcd
I swear this light used to put out about 400 kcd when I built it 5 or so years ago. I probably havenāt touched it in as long. I was thinking of replacing the led sometime in the near future. Anyway, Iād say score with the Maglight Mini reflector. Once you Dremel off the outer edge it fits nicely in the 1504 pill.
