What did you mod today?

[TrueRMS]

@djozz

The chance of the light from the blue leds getting its way out of the switch cap of my Tool AA Ti was low because of the leds lying so deep (the black-ish cap does not help either), so despite the leds giving off plenty light the effect is rather dim. I solved a lot of that by raising the leds towards the cap, using small pieces of wire, so that they are now flush against the transparent plastic ring. It makes the tail light at least 4 times as bright.
My advice: do not try this at home unless you are a soldering masochist like me . Instead go for one of the led ring pcb’s from Oshpark described and linked in the lighted tail thread. Much easier and likely even more robust.

(Can be watched as stereo pair, cross your eyes like you learned to watch those fun 3D books of the nineties)

I like to use 0ohm resistors cause the ceramic film body doesn’t transfer the soldering heat like a bit of wire so it’s easier to solder each end without Desoldering the other.

[djozz]

^ thanks for the tip, that sounds like a very good idea

[TrueRMS]

You’re welcome sir! I’ve done it to my side-button sofirn lights (stock drivers) cause they like to use that black button with just the tiny bit of clear material in the center so getting the led closer to the base of the button is a big help.

[Agro]

@djozz

@Agro

Nice idea.
Would this make it easier?

Probably not, the used wire length is so short that when soldering one side of the wire, the other side unsolders, it is all about being quick, but being quick increases the risk of bad solder joints.
What would help (but I did not do) is using two types of solder, a high temp solder to solder the wires on the pcb, and a normal temp solder for soldering the led on top of the wires.
But still, use a Oshpark ring pcb and your life gets easier, you can even use 6 leds instead of 2 and play a bit more with colours if you are into that.

I see. I don’t see myself repeating the mod but nevertheless reading stuff like that makes me glad that I have bismuth based solder in my kit…I use it much more that I thought I would and I keep seeing new uses.

[KawiBoy1428]

Officially Burnt OUT on these NovaTac builds… #9 of which I kept 5 for myself…the Last One…

Grand Finale…

[xevious (Gary)]

^ Very impressive, KawiBoy1428 ! I’m going to have to read through all your NovaTac posts. How do you find the thermal management in your modded version of the NovaTac compared to something like the FW3A?

[jon_slider]

@KawiBoy1428

outstanding!
subliminal hint… tritium bezels… lol

[CRX]

Pico SST-20 2700K & XP-E Red 670nm - Fet+1 & 105c7135x4 - 18650 - Rv Clicky Sw - 600lm.Luminus SST-20 2700K emitter
16mm DTP copper MCPCB
FET+1 5 mode driver
OP Reflector
20mm ARC glass
Brass pill
GITD LED gasket
Reverse clicky side switch
Cree XP-E Red 670nm emitter
16mm DTP copper MCPCB
Nanjg 105c 4x7135
Mule
Reverse clicky bottom switch
GITD details

Length - 90mm/ 70mm
Width - 46mm
Depth - 24mm
Weight - 175g (with 18650 cell)
Max - 600lmA friend sent me this Pico iStick vaping device. I still prefer the real thing so modded it :D

The side clicky switch operates the main LED and the bottom switch operates the three mode deep red side LED.

[MtnDon (Don Miller)]

[jon_slider]

> A friend sent me this Pico iStick vaping device.

Holy Wow!

mind blowingly beautiful

Visualizing Anduril in the next version… lol

[CRX]

Squashed Maratac Peanut..

I was sent this to try and fix.Two hours later...It's not perfect but it works.

[CRX]

@jon_slider

> A friend sent me this Pico iStick vaping device.

Holy Wow!

mind blowingly beautiful

Visualizing Anduril in the next version… lol

Yeah I just built it with some old parts from the spares box

[CRX]

Green 40mm self powered glow cube XM-L2
USB rechargeable
160mAh Lipo cell
1x7135
Reverse clicky switch

.

Dual colour 20mm cube.

Charged with 400nm UV:

Charged with 5000K LED:

.

[gchart]

Very cool, CRX! Do you have pics of the internals of the self powered one?

[CRX]

No I didn’t bother, should have.

It has a mini DD08CRMB charger board with remote micro USB port, XM-L2 on a 20mm star, 12mm omten rv clicky sw, power running through a single 7135 chip and all built into one of those 25mm x 15mm round plastic containers with the LED sitting on top pointing up and a reflector tape stuck to the inside top of the well to shine some light downward.
It was tricky trying to find a balance between the glow powder mix, resin translucency, reflection and LED power/cell capacity to light up as much of the cube as possible without wasting the cell in two minutes.
Not perfect but it works ok.

[gchart]

[Marc_E]

Lots of inspirational stuff on this page, as ever
Liking the Pico mod CRX!

[KawiBoy1428]

@xevious

^ Very impressive, KawiBoy1428 ! I’m going to have to read through all your NovaTac posts. How do you find the thermal management in your modded version of the NovaTac compared to something like the FW3A?

The FW3/NovaTac heat sinks are a bit heavier hand fit to a slight press fit, to the bored out body/head …. they can run a bit longer Turbo runs than the FW3A’s can.

. The first triple uses a copper sink pressed fit into an aluminum slug, brass signal tube and a FW3 driver.

It is a Heavy little Beastie…. but with the great knurling feels substantial in the hand…

The single emitter FW3/NovaTac uses an aluminum sink, brass signal tube and FW3 driver

20mm MCPCB pocket…easily change out emitter’s on 20mm DTP boards and in this case during the initial build a 3v 50.2 (it’s been changed numerous times so far)

The other 2 I have just made MCPCB’s to fit the better stock drivers… one with a XP-L V4 3C and the other with a Nichia 219B….

All of them run the brass signal tube as do most of my FW3’s and FW3 shorty mods…

Here is a stock driver updated board and Nichia 219B LED running the 18350… Future sink/driver upgrade? Maybe? I do have a few left over and the pills/sinks are pretty easy to make.

[G0OSE]

@CRX

Pico SST-20 2700K & XP-E Red 670nm - Fet+1 & 105c7135x4 - 18650 - Rv Clicky Sw - 600lm.Luminus SST-20 2700K emitter
16mm DTP copper MCPCB
FET+1 5 mode driver
OP Reflector
20mm ARC glass
Brass pill
GITD LED gasket
Reverse clicky side switch
Cree XP-E Red 670nm emitter
16mm DTP copper MCPCB
Nanjg 105c 4x7135
Mule
Reverse clicky bottom switch
GITD details

Length - 90mm/ 70mm
Width - 46mm
Depth - 24mm
Weight - 175g (with 18650 cell)
Max - 600lmA friend sent me this Pico iStick vaping device. I still prefer the real thing so modded it

The side clicky switch operates the main LED and the bottom switch operates the three mode deep red side LED.

I missed that crx! wow you clever wee bugger you!
I knew it could be done…… and if there was anyone who could do it……. stunning!
It is fantastic to see someone turn something unused and basically would have gone in the bin, into a masterpiece! the true spirit of modding. :+1:
Oh and have you named it surely it’s got to be the CRX ‘Puff Drive’ lol!

[pinkpanda3310 (Pinky)]

Awesome mods