What did you mod today?

e1000 · 2020-04-29T23:42:18.000Z

The one on the right

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-04-30T00:44:00.000Z

e1000:

The one on the right

Cool the good one from my testing. I’m getting 589lm with just an emitter/board swap XP-L V4 3C tested on my T/A muakka tube.

.

Been removing the good drivers and putting them into the round mcpcb pills…

Resistor modded a few… of the others… just to play with…

e1000 · 2020-04-30T00:56:45.000Z

Wow, how did you get the potting out?! These things are built like tanks

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-04-30T01:10:01.000Z

e1000:

Wow, how did you get the potting out?! These things are built like tanks

It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

e1000 · 2020-04-30T01:15:04.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

You’re a better man than me, I know I’d get frustrated and mess that up.

I’d really like to do a brass bar 18350 conversion next, just trying to plan out how to do it

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-04-30T01:56:51.000Z

e1000:

KawiBoy1428:

It’s a RTV silicone potting… I soak them in a very strong thinner. I take a small drill bit and by hand remove the silicone down to the driver contact board, the 2 holes opposite the lead holes are for filling/ venting the pill, remove the silicone from those 2 areas and soak in thinner. It takes time and patients but eventually the silicone breaks down enough to push the driver out. I used to hot air the spring contact board off, now I just soak them.

You’re a better man than me, I know I’d get frustrated and mess that up.

I’d really like to do a brass bar 18350 conversion next, just trying to plan out how to do it

I made up some brass signal tubes for my FW3 shorty mods and machined the tubing smaller for the FW3/NovaTac mods. So I had 3-4 FW3 signal tubes left over. Now I’m out of brass tubing. But then I figured I would flap out the battery tube of the NovaTac which was about .005” and then I cut down the FW3 tube to fit.

My Last FW3/NovaTac Triple using the FW3 driver and cut down signal tube…and clip…

e1000 · 2020-04-30T02:04:25.000Z

That looks awesome! Very cool

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-04-30T02:26:00.000Z

e1000:

That looks awesome! Very cool

Thanks… :+1:

id30209 · 2020-04-30T06:12:31.000Z

KawiBoy1428:

e1000:

That looks awesome! Very cool

Thanks… :+1:

What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-05-01T18:08:51.000Z

id30209:

KawiBoy1428:

e1000:

That looks awesome! Very cool

Thanks… :+1:

What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver

I have not seen any SPL-120’s just the SPA SPL-120’s and the 3 older ones I had with the SS Black bezel to me is the better ones of the SPA’s from my experience. I don’t know much about the other models.

Edit. Sorry… I misread your question… I had 120M locked in my head… I got a 120M coming… a Black anodized with a clip… my first… All my others have been in the weapon light kit SPA SPL-120’s.

CRX · 2020-04-30T09:11:27.000Z

id30209:

What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver

I’ve modded a couple 120s, they can vary.

NovaTac SPA Defense SPL-120 - Nichia 219C 4000K - 18350 Mod Featured Mods

[image]Stock SPL-120 SSC P4 emitter: Low - 14lm Med - 46lm High - 96lm[image] . [image]Modded SPL-120 Nichia 219C 4000K 90+ CRI: Low - 29lm Med - 110lm High - 435lm[image]Slightly trimmed 16mm copper DTP MCPCB with Nichia 219C. I made a prototype brass sleeve to contain a copper sliding bar with a spring on the end so the light can run on 18350 cells and dispense with the signal spring.[image]Swapped the black O-ring for a green GITD version, the plastic window for a 22.7mm x 2mm ARC gl…

id30209 · 2020-04-30T09:15:23.000Z

CRX:

id30209:

What pill has SPL-120 if you have seen them? I wanna add one to my lab but i’m nit sure about the driver

I’ve modded a couple 120s, they can vary. NovaTac SPA Defense SPL-120 - Nichia 219C 4000K - 18350 Mod

Oh yeah, so anodized bezel ring has lower output than the model with black bezel ring. Bummer...

e1000 · 2020-04-30T12:41:00.000Z

Mine had the pill that has the skinny straight mcpcb opening.

I think the output is pretty good with the stock driver and an LED swap, it actually turned out better than I anticipated. Really happy with the light now.

id30209 · 2020-04-30T12:45:57.000Z

I agree on that. Novatac pills with HS opening just for a P4 emitter are the ones with most lumens after emitter swap.

Those with larger opening in the pill for emitter and mcpcb, those are the ones with less powerfull driver.
I hope i’m right but as i read in Kawiboy and CRX posts, it seems it is like that.

e1000 · 2020-04-30T12:59:32.000Z

Anyone know a good place to buy a clip for these things?

KawiBoy1428 · 2020-04-30T13:28:24.000Z

e1000:

Anyone know a good place to buy a clip for these things?

I use a FW3 clip you just have to open up the I.D. a bit…

Ask Neal (neals gadgets) or Victor at Lumintop to hook you up.

e1000 · 2020-04-30T13:32:54.000Z

I’m an idiot, didn’t even think about that, thanks!

jon_slider · 2020-04-30T17:35:02.000Z

xevious · 2020-05-02T06:57:08.000Z

buck91:

Just swapped a sw40 R9080 into mine and it looks so much nicer than the low CRI “NW” XPL. A little spottier but that offsets the marginal decrease in lumens. Mine also had arctic silver thermal paste (or similar), though it is now replaced with arctic alumina…

Must look amazing. I’m also very keen on the TH20. I picked mine up for $30 from the Thunite site when they had a sale. A BLF friend here swapped the emitter for me, with a Nichia 219B ~~R9080~~ R9050 sw30 I supplied to him. It would be warmer than I normally go for, but wow… is it fabulous. Eyes adjust to it easily. Very reminiscent of incandescent. It’s under-powered with a basic AA Eneloop, but the main intention is close range task illumination & it does the job wonderfully. Good spill. Ramping is a touch slow, but I’d rather have that than too fast.

xevious · 2020-05-02T06:56:43.000Z

jon_slider:

Very nice tint. Your photo does a great job of capturing it. I’ve got a 219B ~~9080~~ 9050 sw30 (3000k) in my TH20 and it looks very much like that.