What did you mod today?

I was looking more closely at your photos. Are the aux LEDs mounted to a separate board?

Likely using this or something similar: [SALE] lighted aux boards, D1 and D1S multicolored

To be honest, I’m surprised we don’t see more of this mod. It’s pretty sweet. Come to think of it, I need to try that myself!

Nice one moderator007 :wink:
The 3500K led seems quite nice !
And certainly better than the original one :stuck_out_tongue:

Today I modded my original Convoy S2+ Desert Tan with a LD-x4 7A-9A driver and a Luxeon MZ 5700K 90CRI, both from led4power!
I kept the original pill with the Biscotti driver and XPL-HI led, and use another pill with a kiriba-ru custom retaining ring. The gasket is typical 3535 gasket filed to accomodate a 4040 led, like the Luxeon MZ

I like the tint, that is on the “border” of NW to CW, and specially it’s colour rendering! I would say it looks like a Nichia 5700K 90 CRI (although I don’t have mine installed to compare).

As seen in other experiences, this led creates a slight “donut hole”, even with OP reflector. However, that is more noticeable in close range. At distance (+5m), no problems!

LEFT: Luxeon MZ 5700K > 4 x Samsung 5000K > Nichia Nichia NVSW219BT ~5000K
RIGHT: Luxeon MZ 5700K > Luxeon V2 5000K > Luxeon V2 4000K > 4 x Luxeon V 4000K > Luxeon V2 3000K

Luxeon MZ 90 CRI vs XPL-HI 70 CRI

Ugh now I ordered a few more just cause I know you are tinkering with the driver. Hope you ordered some extra resistors so I can ride your coat tails, lol.

YLP X1 xp-g2 > 219b 4500k
My first keychain that have an integrated pill. The bezel is glued, but can be unscrewed without the use of heavy equipment.
Mcpcb is aluminum and glued, but something very weak. Easy to clean. The driver does not need to be removed to replace the led.

Umm… is that the YLP’s driver? The one suspiciously labelled TANK007?

integrated shelf but they anodized it :person_facepalming:

if you sanded that you could probably convert this to FET 10440 and fill up dead driver space with 10mm copper MCPCB glued to bottom side

If it is lead free, do you know how to save the led ?
I did not know anyone was using lead free for led to mcpcb’s.
Thanks :+1:

Yep, that is a good idea for extra buffer heat transfer space between off and on. :+1:

Yes, this is the driver that was in this flashlight by default. That surprised me a bit too.

I’ve been thinking about something like this, but I don’t know how to sand a shelf that is “hidden”.
Besides, I prefer to power small lights with aaa, because I usually carry these with my keys and I do not have to remember to charge the battery.

If it bothers you, you could sand down one side of the lens to make it frosted and that should eliminate the donut hole entirely.

Not sure if I got you right, the LED should survive the higher temperature.

I think I got you covered. :+1:
I ordered 20 of each value I picked. At digikey 10 was .15 cents so I just ordered 20 of each value. I could probably save some money buying one of those 172 value assorted resistor books from Ali.
You will like the ease of modding the Ti3 if your going to use the original mcpcb, if you go copper mcpcb then it will take a little more effort.

Went to just throw the stock emitter in my modded D10 for now. Screwed on the tailcap and… instant 100%. Whoops.

Started troubleshooting and found that LED- was shorting to ground. Driver being bypassed completely. Eventually found the culprit was sloppy soldering at the LED- contact on the driver. Re-did the LED- and LED+ at the driver. Next issue was the light was just completely dead. I wasn’t getting ground contact from driver/charger board to the body tube. Threw some solder blobs on the ground ring in a strategic spot and did another test-reassemble. All good now! The use of 22 gauge wire throughout, a probably crap-bin XM-L2, and rather long LED leads mean turbo isn’t anything special on this - but that’s not what this light’s about.

I love having on-board charging for an Anduril light that’s also a nice compact headlamp. I’m tempted to, at some point, order a D25S and another of these drivers…

Edit: forgot to add, it has a nice sub-lumen minimum output. Must be the 1x7135 channel.
Second edit: went to turn in for the night and the red switch LEDs were bright. I decided to find out if they were proper Anduril-controlled aux LEDs. Googled up the user manual. Put the light into lockout and suddenly the LEDs are blinking (off, low, off, low, high, repeat). Awesome!

2019 RRT-01 to Red
pic is a link

Good stuff Scallywag, glad you breathed new life into the Olight! That was one of the first lights I tried to mod, with my very limited knowledge at the time, and really could have chosen a better light to start with :blush:

Thanks for the tip NeutralFan. I actually wanted to keep the hotpost and a “frosted” lens will probably erase it.
I tried it below a pebbled TIR, but it loosed a lot in distance range. I would need a shorter reflector, eventually, to avoid the “hole”, but I don’t have any around that I can try. Next weekend I will try it outdoor and see how it looks. In case that artifact bothers me, I will probably follow you suggestion or add some DC-Fix!
Again, thank you :+1:

It could’ve been worse - you could’ve tried to start with a Zebralight!

It’s a great light. I prefer Olight’s modern UI (or, idk, maybe it has changed - I like the UI on my S1), but only for minor quibbles - it’s not like this one has H-M-L mode order or something. They could have, like the Thrunite, offered a higher output on 14500, but I don’t find that super appropriate for a fully titanium host (and it will likely carry Eneloops anyway). Rather, I like that, as with my DQG Slim AA, the 14500 low modes are the same as the AA/NiMh. That ruined the Thrunite on 14500 entirely for me when I lost sub-lumen moonlight. And the emitter choice - but then, that’s Olight anyway.

The only really rough bit for me was getting the driver out of the pill. I even contacted Olight to see if they had replacement parts available (no - although they were trying to get me to send it in for paid repair, which I did not want) so I knew if I mucked that up it was game over. There was a tiny bit of epoxy on about a third of the bottom edge of the driver, but it didn’t offer much resistance once I found a good way to pry the driver out - again, it was not much epoxy at all, and it probably didn’t stick very well to the aluminum pill.

As for the D10, some updates. With the stock XM-L2 and running in turbo for a minute here and there, the body wasn’t getting warm. It was also running with a 3500mAh protected cell (not sure on the exact cell, but probably LG MJ1), so it’s pulling less than 8A that the protection circuit is rated for. I’m going to stick with lower-drain 3500mAh cells and not put something silly like Luxon V or SST40 in there, since there’s no temp sensor near the LED.

Ok this whole D10 era predates me. Someone fill me in.

The whole inner battery holder piston moves and acts as the momentary switch?

People are modding them with Anduril cause of the minimal vintage tube look and feel but getting latest ramping firmwares?

What am I missing vs an FW#A flashlight?