I recieved my first e03 this week. Supposed to come in with NW, but accidentally shipped to me in CW. Figured I’d mod it with an extra sst20 high cri. I was surprised when I opened it in and saw a 4040 emitter in the 14mm (?) mcpcb. I should’ve know but I didn’t, so I threw in an extra sst40 5000k I had around. It’s now brighter then all of my newer 14500 lights. Looks great.
Side note- weirdly I think the ui order changed to L-M-H. I’m pretty sure it was M-L-H when I got it. I don’t know why that would’ve happened, but it’s definitely L-M-H. Also, there is a significant difference between the three modes, and originally M and H were so similar I couldn’t distinguish between the two. Anyway, love the light more now.
Original pic- compared to my NW S3a.
Now, compared to the same NW S3a (this pic was taken today, the “original” comparison was taken days ago, at night - hence the different looking cct. The emitter is the same in all of these pics in the S3a on the right)
E03 on turbo vs S3a on turbo (hard to tell, but e03 is brighter now. Again, this pic taken today during daytime)
After early struggles with huge caps, etc., DEL finally solved the problem properly, first appearing in the Q8 driver, and his own OSHPark drivers --> you really need that 4.7 ohm resistor on Batt+ coming into the 85. We have it before the diode. Everything is happy after that on the scope. All new 85 drivers since 2017 have that resistor. I see it duplicated in all the Chinese Anduril, and custom firmware drivers, even many non-85 drivers.
Odd. Sounds like it’s needed almost (if not exactly) like a terminating resistor on a transmission line. Current spikes might cause reflections at the end of the line, screwing with the voltage the little beastie sees.
I have the 4.7ohm resistor with capacitors layed out the same as the D4 driver and still saw that behavior. But I’m not sure what the capacitor values are and the physical positioning of the components on my driver is different so maybe it is not suppressing the spikes as well.
That's strange. The resistor has been the single thing to make the big difference. Looking at the Lumintop EDC18 driver (same design as the FW3A) last night. I noticed 3 caps of 3 different sizes to ground - this is a common for reducing spikes. The one cap, we use across the MCU V+ and V- should be as close as possible to the pins - I know DEL emphasized that, posted here:
Thanks. My attiny85 on qlite mod had mostly been working fine, but there were a couple instances of strange behavior where I had to disconnect the battery for awhile to let it “reset”.
Here is how I made the circuit to emulate the D4 driver.
That C1 is in the same position as the C2 in your diagram; it’s connected right to pin 8. But I found that it is a 10uF instead of the 0.1uF that is recommended. So that could have contributed to the bad behavior; it would not filter the spikes as well. I switched it out for a 0.1uF and hopefully it fixed it. I cannot reliably reproduce the bad behavior so it’s hard to tell for sure if it’s fixed. If I still see problems I will increase the R5 resistor to 10ohms.
Im using like this for E-switch
Its kind off snuber .Best way is to connect oscilloscope to see real picture.
And if you have no fet in circuit so i think you dont need that snubber at all
I don’t have an oscilloscope so unfortunately I can’t see exactly what’s going on. I was seeing lots of bad behavior when I was testing on the bench with longer wires. Then it got much better when I put it in the light. So it made me think it was a voltage spike issue. But yes, it is only 8x7135 driver so I’m not sure what’s going on.
Yesterday I was going through my ewaste trying to salvage parts to make a flashlight test board for firmware and reflector/optic testing. And then I got sidetracked by a discovery.
It turns out those harbor freight $1 on sale flashlights use Omten 1217 clones, meaning I was able to repair the tailswitch of my old Lux Pro flashlight today instead of trying to get Fasttech to reship an order seemingly lost during CNY and finally getting the switch who knows when.
As for the test board, I have everything but the 18650 holder already, so I’ll have to post pics once I get a holder in and get it fully assembled.
I modified a green Sofirn C8F with three 6V XHP50.2 5000K 90CRI and the XHP70 boost driver of the Convoy M21C-U.
I had to drill the holes of the reflector to 8mm diameter and cover the back with Kapton Tape. The retaining ring was filed on the inside to not touch the outer parts on the driver.
The driver needed some filing as well to fit. I covered the outer parts with white thermal glue to prevent shorts.
At the moment I can use only 18650 batteries because the brass button crushes the top of 21700 cells. I will replace it with a shorter button or a spring. The leds are slightly off center. I may add centering rings as they risk accidental dedoming if I turn the bezel.
The M21C-U driver allows soldering switch leds as well. With the green leds it looks almost like the original C8F. The beam is a nice neutral white and even a bit rosy. The tint shift is not too disturbing. I really like the flashlight this way. The low mode is a bit bright and the ramping is irregular but I got enough Anduril flashlights for that.
Today I swapped some 219b sw40 into an older D4v2 that had some pretty green SST20’s in it prior. It was sitting around for quite a while because I really didn’t want to mess with those tiny little aux wires. Well, I’m not embarrassed to admit that this task was definitely beyond my comfortable soldering skill level.
I made a decent mess of the wires but miraculously everything seems to be working (for now). We’ll see how long it lasts before the damaged wire insulators give up the ghost and the whole thing shorts and explodes.
Oh and I flashed the 219 version of Anduril 2 while I was at it.
Only pushing 5.6v versus the expected 14.4v off bench power. Same issue off 8xM35A 4S2P. Cells test good. Wires test good. Only leaves the PCB as the issue…
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And the main feautre - flashing pads!
Well planned and executed. 
