Did the o-ring mod to both my FWAAs and now the switch is much stiffer. Zero accidental activations since doing that.
However, I still think accidental pocket activation, while unlikely, would eventually happen if I carried it in my pocket with my keys long enough.
There’s no chance of pocket roasting, since I set the max ramp below what is necessary to burn my pocket. However, an accidental activation that gets to max ramp might still drain the battery.
Like the 2-stage switch of the MH20 and family. It’s got a camera-type switch where you can half-press it or full-press it.
Only it uses the half press even when off, eg, quick half-press to turn on the sideswitch beacon, or press’n’hold halfway to turn on moonlight.
Otherwise, full-press just turns it on, press’n’hold fully turns on turbo.
Once on, half-press switches modes, full press turns off.
Imagine the same can be done as a tailswitch with 2-tube design, but I like/prefer the sideswitch.
And just to be safe, I do TCLO the light when carrying, regardless.
Oh yeah I remember those, thanks.
I’ve had numerous FWXX models of lights and carry them constantly, never once have I had an accidental activation. I always use the electronic lockout though. I will say one click for on is much easier than four but even then it takes me less than 2 seconds to turn on with the electronic lockout. To me that’s acceptable to not have my pocket/leg burned lol.
It is how I use my EDC, I’m getting older and my eyes get worse, I use my light to light something up multiple times a day, usually a few seconds at a time. From need to actual light is a second or 2. Any lockout action would not work for me.
I put quad Nichia E17A SM503-B12-R9080 5000K LEDs into a Convoy M1. I frosted the lens in order to eliminate the donut hole and installed a Convoy driver (and put it to mode group 8 to keep the current to less than 4 amps). I also made a custom turquoise lighted switch that uses 0.15 milliamps.
It has some throw (due to the deep OP reflector) and excellent tint.
Right there with ya, several times a day and I can live with 4 clicks. All of my Anduril 1 lights have an autolock fw mod, would not give it up.
A very nice mod! That has become a beautiful light. :+1:
What about the double tail-leds?, do they have a different colour that is mixed? Camera’s are very bad in picking up monochrome colours accurately.
Thanks djozz!
The lighted switch has a mix of green and blue LEDs. The blue ones came with the switch and I added the outside green 0805 SMDs.
Here are a couple more pics:
Did you glue the centering ring in place? Seems like it would wreck the LEDs when you screw on bezel if not.
Not really a mod, but i made a box for my integrating sphere.
I’m no Carpenter, so it took me quite some time and effort, but i think its not a bad job for an amateur.
(It needs some finishing)
It needed a sturdy box since i was using an old Cardboard box, but my wife thought it was part of the pile with old paper, so she placed some boxes with old magazines on top, the sphere survived, the Cardboard box not.
Men with obscure hobbies live a tough life, I can relate to that 
Yes, definitely - using superglue. Those E17As are very fragile!
The case looks good Yokiamy! Did you make it just to store the sphere?
The “Disinfector” is complete. 3x Klaran UV-C totaling over 200mW of disinfecting power! Sneak peak of what I’m making next in the background 
Driver is a H2-C but I’m really not happy with it. For whatever reason it keeps blinking shortly after the light is turned on. This is apparently to indicate low voltage. However, it does the same thing on a freshly charged 21700…
Thanks! Basically, yes.
I will add some openings and features to make it usable with the box.
Have you thought about grinding down the inside of the driver retaining ring? Looks like a couple of chips may be getting in the way of making a good connection:
Great catch! Drilled it out today. I tried various different fully charged 18650s and even 2x 18350s but unfortunately it still blinks. Defective driver I’m guessing. Will see if there are alternatives.
Note to self:
An early version D25A Ti with FET driver cannot handle turbo mode for more than a couple minutes when equipped with an LH351D and a FET driver and running on a Vapcell H10.
Head overheated and light disabled itself. Fortunately, a driver wire disconnected from the star and cut the circuit.
Unfortunately, when things shifted as it overheated, a bit of the slightly too small plastic centering ring cut into the LED dome. I tried shaving the dome afterwards but cut too close and removed some of the phosphor. That led is destroyed.
A tiny titanium head just isn’t good for heatsinking even with the LED sitting on a copper Noctigon.
Replaced the LED with a different one and now it works fine again. But perhaps H10 isn’t the proper cell for this light.
A few days ago I picked up a some XP-L2 6500K 90+ CRI emitters because I’ve been wanting to grab some high CRI, cool white emitters to play around with and these were readily available. I reflowed a few into an FW3A with a Carclo 10511 and a 1/4 minus green filter.
I fully expected it to be disgusting but lo, this thing has surprised me. Thankfully, there’s no fried egg with the frosted optic. It’s a bit odd seeing colors rendered so well with such a cool light, particularly in the reds (the minus green filter probably helps with the R9). The tint is downright gorgeous. From XP-L2s no less. Who’d have thought?
I also flashed Anduril 2 on the factory driver while I had it apart.
Comparison with XHP35 HI 6000K 80+ CRI (left)
What does it look like with a reflector? Did you get them from mouser?