What did you mod today?

Liquid-cooled hack-sink, uh…. I mean heat sink.

Very nice. Actually similar to my D80V2, traded highest output for beam/tint quality, but I used a sliced high CRI 5000K LH351D instead and the stock driver, slightly better output slightly less tint.
(measured in hotspot @350mA, CCT=3920K, duv=–0.0001, CRI=93.5, R9=58)

Nice! I actually have a D80v2 with a sliced dogfart as well, but I’ve never been able to get mine to drop CCT that far. Using a ~0.8-0.9mm washer as a guide, they usually come in around 4500K. What method are you using to slice your 351D?

In fact, I have another one with a sliced 4000K 351D that comes in at 3800K which is very close to what you got out of your 5000K emitter!

Hmm, that makes me wonder if I used a 4000K one after all. Maybe I can look it up, I must have posted it somewhere.

I use washers as well, 4 in succesion to slice the dome gradually, each washer thinner, and the last gets me right on top of the phosfor, the angle of the razor blade determines if I cut into the phosfor or not.

This self-quote from Nov 2019 that I found in this thread mentions 5000K, but even then I do not trust myself, I always had 4000K versions in house too. I will never know :partying_face:

I know entry level mods, but yet I’m gunna post my first post on this thread!

sw40 d200 reflowed into my Tool AA 2.0. Rosier than I was expecting but I really like it! It originally had the hideous xpl2.

Osram nm1 swap into my BLF x5. Definitely regret due to focusing issues. And there’s no led gasket factory, so I’m shaving down one of Simon’s. Gave up for today!

Still looking for good 219c 4000k d240 bare to buy

I built Convoy S3 with Luxeon MZ5700K 90cri, Convoys TIR lens and LD-A4 driver. Very nice paper white beam and very much heat. Good light to use in short bursts if run on turbo. On ~30% and ~4A gives plenty of light and heat is manageable.

Beam distance 3m.

Looks nice, but what is that?

Mine MZs are very green, good that your’s is better :slight_smile:

Thanks. I only bought these, because they were so cheap and seemed interesting. I’m positively surprised.

Simple emitter swap in FWAA

- The ring of the Sofirn SP36 and Wurkkos HD20 is the same size. There’s an o-ring on the HD20. I swap them. All photos with the aux on high.

- I also put a piece of electric tape behind the SP36 button as it was too bright even on low. Now the intensity on high is about the D4V2S aux green on low using wall bounce. It’s not intrusive at all yet I can see it at night.

- The green diffuser cap is from SX25A6 kit

- There’s an extra 2 moonlights for the HD20. You have to first switch to either flood or spot, turn it off completely and then activate moon. There’s 3 moon light brightness.

I’m really liking the all copper heat sink liquid cooler. I was wanting to make something very similar. Keep us posted please. Looking great so far.

Barely a "Mod" but this was something i learned on a sales thread here on BLF recently and it was AWESOMEly helpful to not scratch the beautiful finish of my brand new light! thanks to the ingenuity of Timbo114 (or Boaz, depends who you ask ;) ) and mattlward for bringing this to my attention!

The Soda Straw Trick (TM)

Compared to the below THIS travesty on my green one!

It worked Great! and because the clip is so tight to begin with, i think small pieces of the straw is still stuck underneath which is fine with me because its added just a little tension and "slip resistance"

Thanks again! Wish i knew about this before!

Another no scratch trick is to put a layer of electrical or duct tape on the underside of the clip. Trim with scalpel or sharp knife before clipping it on. Small straws slipped over the ends also work if not picky about it’s visibility

I modded a Jaxman E3 and a Convoy T2.

The Jaxman E3 was turned into a triple. Pieces:

- MCPCB and TIR optic from FWAAs

- LEDs: I replaced the original Nichia 5000K 70 CRI for some Nichia 5700K 90CRI

- Driver: H17f from MTN Electronics

- Forward Clicky Switch

- Battery tube from the Convoy T2

- Clip, screws and bezel “torched” for a darker mood

- GITD powder + UV glue for the “GITD dot” in the pocket clip

  • blue GITD tape for inner “after glow”

Besides the hole in te middle of the shelf (to pass the wires), no major mods were made to the host.
I had to use the driver retaining ring reversed so that it made contact with the driver without damaging the 7135 chips.
The fwd clicky switch had the 4 corners filed to fit well in the tailcap.
I also used an aluminium “spacer” from led4power and a brass ring to prevent the spacer from moving.

The Convoy T2 now has:

- L4P MCPCB with Luxeon V2 3000K

- Driver: H17f from MTN Electronics

- Forward Clicky Switch

- Clip, screws and bezel “torched” for a darker mood

  • GITD powder + UV glue for the “GITD dot” in the pocket clip

The tube is from my older Convoy. Like in the Jaxman E3, I had to use the driver retaining ring reversed and I filed the fwd clicky switch 4 corners.
I had to file/grind the shelf (because it has some inner raised edges) and I had to fo the same with the 16mm PCB to make it smaller in diameter. The reflector in use is the original.

This is how they look like:

Nice pocket pair MascaratumB :+1:

wow! great mods!
you sacrificed Anduril in favor of H17f…
got rid of the FWAA eSwitch… and
gained a much better pocket clip too

great LED pairing!
I like warm and cooler pairings too:

Very nice MascaratumB :+1:

I attempted to mod a Zebralight again today. This time my SC80, hoping to replace the cool white XPG with something more modern.

Still no luck.

I can’t get anything at all under the lens retaining ring. Even the tip of a fresh exacto knife blade won’t go in.

Also, pressing down on the lens seems to do nothing. The lens does not go down and there is no gap to insert anything. Perhaps I need to press harder? Or maybe I need to destroy the lens to remove the ring?