Yes, you really have to yank on them hard! Next time I may just try to use my soldering iron to melt the ends a little.
I dedomed one of my 4500K 519As in my triple S3. Luckily for me, like others have said, it peeled off just like a sticker.
I took off the bezel, removed the optic, grabbed the dome with my fingernail, and pulled it off (at room temp).
Here you can see the glass cover over the phosphor.
Removing just one of the domes brought the temp down to around 4000K and gave it some rosiness. It no longer looks greenish when compared to the 219B sw45k! I was pleasantly surprised that the beam does not show a temp difference between the LEDs. The 10511 Carclo optic does a great job of mixing everything together.
Today I managed to build S2+ triple with Convoy GT-FC40 12V 2.5A boost driver and 3 XHP35.2ās. 2*3000K 80cri + 1*6500K 80cri.
Everything was bought from Kaidomain, except the driver and spacer.
I wanted to squeeze that driver to S2+ whatever it takes and create efficient hotrod. Paradox?
I had to enlarge the pill as much as possible and file down the driver diameter as small as possible. I left few thin brass āpillarsā protruding from the shortened pill as a solder ārootsā to which I could solder the driver.
Then after careful soldering, the pill and the driver were one unit.
I turned aluminium spacer with lathe and assembled everything.
Very nice beam. Rosy and bright with throwier beam that Iām used to with Carclo optics. These Kaido optics seem to be quite good.
And of course, very hot.
Beam distance about 5m. White balance 5000K. Sorry, no pictures of the driver. Iām usually so concentrated when assembling something I donāt think about pictures or anything else.
Today I put together a Triple 519a mix TS21. 1 x 519a 4500K R9080, 1 x 519a 4500K R9080 dedomed (3500K), and 1 x 519a R9080 3500K dedomed (2800K). The result is a spectacular 3500K +/- incredibly rosy tint (even more so than the straight dedomed 519a 4500K).
Left: Quad 519a 4500K dedomed (3500K), Right 519a 4500K/3500K/2800K mix!
Proof that Simon could do a S2+ with boost driver.
Nice mod :+1:
When the S2+ was still in diapers, it never dreamed that it could one day grow up into something as badass as this. It just took somebody to tell him he could do it. 
Next I planned to do this same built, but with Kaido quad optics and in S21B. Kaido Quad fits to S21x series and it can directly take 22mm driver.
Thrunite Ti3 V2 w sw40
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I bought Sofirn SP33S, because I was interested, if it truly could put out over 5000 lumens from XHP70.2 with boost driver.
Disassembly was easy, little glue on driver, nothing else.
I measured current to led with UNI-T 210E clamp meter and got 5.7A. Pretty impressive.
I then added additional 30mOhm resistor parallel with original 10mOhm one and output rose to 7,5 amps.
Seems like very powerful driver. Thatās all for now.
It uses a MP3431/3429/3432, like my boost driver, MikeCās and Convoy 12V ones. Itās a pretty good boost converter. The inductor looks fairly large but low inductance value, should have lower peak efficiency. 7.5A at 6.5V is a bit much though, efficiency is probably in the lower 80%s at that current.
Boost converter is 3432. Yeah, probably not optimal with these currents. I was just curious how easily is this overdriven. Maybe some day I look this one little closer.
Some additional info on that Sofirn SP33S driver: Turbo output ~48.1w, energy input ~60.5w. So turbo efficiency ~78%
Well, itās a modā¦ but not to a flashlight.
Iām visiting a relative whose bicycles all had flat tires. Nobody using them. So I get out the hand air pump and start inflating. Front tire OK. While doing the rear tire, I notice Iām not making any progress. Turns out the hose on the thing has decayed. This shiny pliable vinyl hose canāt withstand much bending, before cracking and becoming completely useless. Thankfully the two ends have screw connectors, so I could remove the hose. I thought maybe the ends were bad and the center was OK. I trimmed it down. But as I went to put the stem into the hose opening, which requires a lot of force due to the expansion, the hose split. The whole thing was bad.
3/16ā ID, but 5/8ā OD so not very common. Rummaging around the garage, found a clear vinyl tube that was thin on the OD, but matched the ID at 3/16ā. Cut a length. Inserted connectors on both ends. Used some duct tape to add to the OD so that the connector would have a good hold. TA DA! Thing works. Tires inflated. Got to ride in the sun. 
I did some comparisons: XHP50.3 Hi 4500K 90cri left GT-FC40 4500K right. Xhp50.3 in Pioneman with very slightly shortened M21B op reflector driven with Convoy 6V5A driver, GT-FC40 in M21B driven at 2.5A. Later batches of GT-FC40ās I have are greener.
That GT-FC40 is very nice!
compared tot the XHP50.3 it looks rosy
IPA and silver polish didnāt seem to help with the AR lens that came with my S21A host unfortunately. I even let it soak overnight and still wasnāt able to remove it.
So I instead I tried some 3M auto polishing compound and that worked. Overall it looked pretty good, but there still was some etching visible left from the AR coating.
Didnāt matter anyways since I needed to sand down one side to make it frosted for my flashlight.
I noticed the new SP10 Pro has an improved switch guard, good thing because the previous design was prone to accidental pocket activation.
Iāve been EDCāing my modded SP10A light (AA/14500 w/Andruril !) and added a SS washer flush height around the switch .
No more accidental activation ever since.
Itās been a long time since my last post (three years I think), as my limited supply of interest has been tied up in other hobbies.
I also have already built up a collection that I keep using and covers all my needs.
Recently though I felt like getting back into modding a bit, so I started organizing my flashlight-materials box and realized I have a lot of leftover hosts and components that I had gotten for builds I planned but never completed.
I want to make use of those before getting anything new, so I started by building up this Jaxman E2L host with a Lexel fet+7+1 driver, 4000k LH351Ds from AEDeās group buy, ILC-0 green illuminated tailcap and a 20.5mm uncoated sapphire glass.
The E2L is a very nice host but I had forgotten how annoying the 19.5mm pcb space is, had to spend a long time sanding a Noctigon 3XP to fit.
The rest of the build went easily and Iām very happy with the result, the beam shows very saturated colors and has a uniform golden tint.
I will use it for a bit and then decide if I want to keep it or sell it, since Iām planning on downsizing my collection.
Onto the next build!
Nice build IC3. And thanks for the memory on the MCPCB size with the E2L! Wish JAXMAN still sold hosts.
I thought I was done modding my E05Ti, but i really wasnāt. I found the SST20 and 519a too similar, and I wanted some variety.
So i took apart my FWAA Ti to use the mcpcb and optic to turn one of them into a triple!
I needed a little extra height, and while in there I wanted to add a little more heat sinking, since the tiny aluminum pill didnāt seem like enough. I filed down a 16mm convoy mcpcb and drilled a hole in it to fit into the original mcpcb slot in the pill. Then took a 16mm convoy mcpcb (both 1.6mm) to use as a spacer, since the triple optic isnāt as tall as the original reflector or the TIR i was using.
I had to sand down the optic 1mm to fit into the tube.
Since the pill screws it, it was a little more challenging to get the emitters to line up with the optic. It happens in the FWAA due to the optic legs being shorter, and not clicking into the mcpcb as well as they do on quads and fw3a for me. I put the glass and o-ring in, then the optic and start screwing in the pill. as it gets a little close, i just line them up, and push down from the glass to hold the optic in place on the emitters while i screw it in tight.
The driver is a mtn15 running bistro, and can run a 9A battery on FET without too much trouble!
With cell, it weighs a little bit more. My other using a single is 72g, and this is 79g.
Now to order another FWAA so i can put my FWAA Ti back togetherā¦