If reflashing is a mod,
I did Two Anduril firmware updates to these Wurkkos TS10:
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and tested a couple of alternative pocket clips:
(installed w shrink tubing to protect the anodising)
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the EDC05 clip is a personal favorite.
Ever since azure E17As popped up Iāve wanted to see it with my own eyes. Thereās something about that colour that I just canāt resist. So I stuck one in a matching colour Lumintop EDC01. That was also my 1st attempt at those tiny emitters and while very doable, they are definitely trickier to handle than standard 3535.
I installed a HDR boost driver in the PL09 quad, with sliced 519A 5000K and aux LEDs:
Color measurements on level 7 (0.75A per LED) and turbo (3A per LED):
Iām very satisfied how it turned out, I really like this host and the beam is like pure neutral white for me.
More details on my thread : thefreemanās HDR Anduril 2 high efficiency drivers - update : FWxA boost driver - #296 by thefreeman
thefreemanās HDR Anduril 2 high efficiency drivers - update : FWxA boost driver - #304 by thefreeman
Looking good!
Accidentally dedomed & destroyed phosphor layer on a 5000K XHP50 so, just in time, found a clearance item 3000K 80+ CRI XHP50 at Mtn Electronics for a S21A with a Carclo sanded TIR (diffuses/reduces dark hole). This time, I trimmed a white TIR holder to keep from damaging another LED and I get more light out the front from lower modes. Thinking of buying glow tape to add to the inside of the TIR holder.
Nice work guys!
Managed a simple rebuild of an old KT Litker C8 that had an XHP-50 in it and was pretty weak. Crammed an SBT-90.2 in the brass pill ( yes, a strange C8) and soldered it in, powered it with an LED4POWER 12A constant current driver. Runs around 3300 lumens and is quite different from most C8ās, which was of course the goal. My buddy is trying to complete a line of C8ās that all differ by emitter and output.
I have an emitter swap in a robust triple ( BTU Shocker) coming up that will likely require rebuilding a three cell carrier to convert from series to parallel. Been a while, hope Iām up to it!
Another special request ( another friend) is an ancient 5 cell Maglight that has corrosion in the battery tube, will likely get tricky due to the length. Undecided as to the actual emitter to use. Will more than likely have to do some machining. Been a while there as well!
So yeah, my buddies are forcing me to dig in the closet for modding gear. Lol
I hear ya Dale!
Small mod, but rewarding. I hated the shiny silver clip on my stonewashed reylight. So I heat colored it. Suits much better imo.
All very nice work folks! @thefreeman: your driver and that flex-PCB for the aux led is next-level! 
(No mod from me for the moment)
Budget Raspberry Pi microscope
I adopted this for Raspberry PI. Thereās a lot steps that can be skipped if you already have a raspberry pi3+. The raspberry guys made it simple to build. You just need to modify the focus of the camera
$35+ - Raspberry Pi3
$5-10+ Camera Module v1 (I chose the cheapest camera available, and itās still surprisingly good quality. )
$3-5+ Longer camera cable
$10 Helping hands (to hold/focus camera)
$10-15+ (at thrift store) Spare monitor
Because I already had most of the parts except for the camera module it costs me about $10 for a basic smd soldering microscope
S2+ with 20 mm 6V 3A Convoy driver, XHP50.2
-bored pill to fit driver
-faced pill because the emitter was on a 20 mm MCPCB
-soldered driver and MCPCB to pill
-used 5x2 mm MTN brass button because the original rod was too long
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Very nice The Whispering. It makes much more sense than a tiny 17mm driver in a 18650 body.
Thank you 
Thanks! One downside that I didnāt but should have expected is that the mass of the pill was reduced significantly. Once I finished machining it, I could tell it was a lot lighter although I didnāt weigh before/after.
Modded a Klarus Mi7 Ti
The Klarus Mi7 is a fairly small AA/14500 side-switch light. It is the only light I know of in this category that is available in titanium. All the others that I know of have a tailswitch. The UI is awkward and the emitter is dated. The stock clip is very low profile, but is also quite weak. I performed the following mods:
- Emitter swap: Replaced emitter with Dedomed Nichia 519a 4500K. I used the stock star.
- Driver swap: Replaced driver with an SP10 Pro driver running Anduril 2. The new driver was a bit too fat to fit in the skinny Klarus flashlight. I filed down the edges of the driver with a handfile and it now fits perfectly. It wasnāt necessary to modify the switch. As far as driver modifications go, this one was fairly painless. Removing the old driver was easy due to large openings in the stock shelf allowing me to push it out. And aligning the new driver was also easy as there were convenient slots for the switch board.
- Replaced stock clip with a stronger one I found in my clip box. I made minor modifications to the new clip for better fit.
- Replaced tailcap spring with low-resistance Be-Cu spring.
I quite like it. Itās small, titanium, has a sideswitch, nice ui, and nice emitter. The one downside is the protruding button is likely to accidentally depress in the pocket. Electronic lockout is necessary during pocket carry. I might at some point try fashioning a washer to put around the button, but Iād need to find some scrap steel I can dremel to fit.
I like it. This is exactly why I was excited for the SP10 Anduril driver.
The Thrunite T10T v2 is/was another side-switch Ti host, I need to see if the SP10 driver will fit itā¦
Nice, The Whispering! Howās the heat dissipation on the high/3A mode?
I think putting an XHP50 in an S21A or S2+ is my favorite combination and replacing the reflector with a TIR is something you might really like.
Found that I had an old Convoy C8 with a nice SS bezel and a good FET driver but it was running a sliced and diced XHP-50.2ā¦ horrid beam! So I disassembled it to find a heavy copper pill threaded in! Noice! Pulled the ugly emitter, refitted it with an SFT40 and Voila! Sheās a potent little proper bada!
Love it when a plan comes together ( 5 or 6 years down the road!) lol
I got a new soldering station the other day. Nothing special, takes T12 tips. But wow, makes a world of difference compared to the old one I was using - a cheap Radio Shack (remember that place?) with a heavily-oxidized, blunt tip. The new one heats up in about 10 sec, the old one took a good two minutes.
With a newfound confidence, I removed the aux board from a D4V2 so I could slice the SST20 4000k. I did something wrong with one and itās slightly dimmer than the rest. Other than that, everything went well. Seems less green now but I could be imagining it. Either way Iām happy.
Iām looking for suggestions. I have a dual-channel D4V2 with 319b 3500k and W2. Great light but I chose poorly with the emitters. They donāt blend well at all, unsurprisingly, and I find I donāt use the channel switching in practice. I bought it thinking it would be neat to have flood and throw channels but letās be real, I own dozens of lights, Iām not going to use this D4V2 to replace a flooder and a thrower, instead Iām just going to carry multiple lights.
Iām definitely a tint snob but I donāt think Iām quite neurotic enough to use the channel mixing to blend the perfect mix of 2700k and 4500k, or use it to try to match the CCT of the sun throughout the day.
Any ideas on what to swap into this light? Find any interesting combos? I have at least two of the following: 219b 2700k, 3500k, 4500k. 519a 2700k, 3500k, 4500k. SST20 2700k, 4000k. XPL HI 4000k. W2. Iām open to buying more LEDs.
Very nice light firelight