Those things seem to be the legs of a flexible tripod: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/flexible-tripod
If you start shining a good UV light around in public places, youâll want to stay home. Disgusting what getâs let go, isnât it? Take one (UV light) with you to a Hotel and youâll be sleeping in the car at a roadside parkâŚ
Finished the F13 MT-G2 mod with MTN DD driver. It draws 7,6A from 4,05V two 26350s
My X6 TI host passed through customs in New York last night and my NOA61 was just delivered. Whatâs the best method of gluing trits in that host? How long is the cure time with the Norland? By the wayâŚthey (Norland) are impressed with their own productâŚas the shipping charge was almost as much as the cost of the glue.
I usually put a thin layer in the slot, lay the trit in and hit it with a high power UV for 30 seconds. Rinse and repeat til the slot is full. Iâll usually give it a 3 minute shot at the end to solidify it good and have even left one out in the sun all day to be sure. 
Then again, my UV light is a 3.8A Nichia NCSV333A.
I modded my bench light, which was a single XM-L2 T6-4C on Noctigon :
I replaced it with a triple 32mm Noctigon with 219B from Jaxman (4500K) :
I know, that is not a reflector, just a light shade
The whole mess illuminated :
Very nice X3 ⌠I need to build the same thing
Received my free tube from Rey , and here is the outcome :
Used reyâs middle tube and X6âs 18350 tube . Removed anodizing from 18350 tubeâs threads (Ti tube side only) , sanded the Ti tube with 3k sandpaper and polished.
Also do searches for loc line hose.
You got pics of this build? Curious to see it.
Back when the SupFire M6 first came out, the thing to do was leave the stock driver in place but bypass the sense resistors, then piggyback a small driver in with a new UI on an ATTiny13A. The original driver supplied power, the new board controlled it. That netted just shy of 5000 lumens. (Some 4800)
This morning I stripped the original driver, built an A17DD FET of Wights design with an SIR800DP MOSFET (the preferred component for our FET+1 drivers) and used ToyKeeperâs ramping firmware to control it all. The original driver board has great viaâs through on the positive side so I soldered the 3 positive leads back to the original board and took a 22ga lead to the new driver for power to the MCU. (the leads from the emitters are 20ga, as Iâd built it before)
So now I have ramping firmware, still have the cut-off mechanical switch at the rear to prevent drain during non-use periods, and a more modern approach to the FET driver running it.
With 4 freshly charged LG HE-4 button tops it makes 10 lumens at the bottom end of the ramp, 3581 lumens at the top end. So I lost some lumens this way, but I gained a great UI and run time. I really wasnât thinking it could gain lumens, it was pretty maxed out on XM-L2âs already anyway, but the amount of loss surprises me. Thatâs how things go sometimes when you mod a modâŚ
Perhaps a change to the new XP-L W2 2B is in orderâŚ.
You might try looking at dive photography sites, they use that kind of arm for indirect lighting on fixed and video lights. Certainly expensive but could give you a better handle on the vernacular.
Not really caring about changing tint I just used ordinary Devcon 2-ton to glue the trits into the tail of my Burly. 
2-ton is less amber/more clear than 5-min though probably not water clear like Norland.
Did you embedded some trits under a spring ? Why is that ?
I finished modding a ThorFire BD04 today on my B-Day(!). If you are not aware, ThorFire has another one of their fire sales goin on for this light on Amazon - $9.99 special on Prime, and the deal is still on. If you do buy, do so at your own risk. Mine had the following issues:
- Bezel and pill are glued, but nothing nasty, rubbery type glue - a few of us could get them apart but at least one posted he could not. So might be some variation in glues out there, not sure.
- It's a Nanji style driver, 13A with 4 7135 380's, but the spring is batt- and the driver has a special ring on the spring side for the Batt+ connection, so not so easy to swap the driver
- on mine, the R1 and R2 resistors were reversed! Using my hot air station, removed and swapped them
- I could not re-program the stock 13A - had to swap it out with a 13A I had, now can re-program easy
- I used firmware with Off time memory, but no OTC support -- I installed Biscotti, but you had to be super quick for mode switching. Turned out the C1 cap on board was ~1.1 uF, so swapped it for a standard 10 uF cap and now mode switch real nice!
So for mine, after some work and figuring stuff out, the full mod turned out really nice! It consists of:
- dedomed XPL V6 0D (FastTech) on a 16 mm Noctigon. Width wise, perfect fit, but sanded the Noctigon down to ~1.05 mm thickness and it focuses perfectly
- stacked 4 more 7135 380's on the stock ones - getting 3.0A now
- I added a bypass 22 AWG wire on the driver spring (Batt-)
- the stock white centering piece was tossed - bit of pain to remove it - stuck in there tight. Doing it over, I would have drilled it out
- I used a good thermal grease under the MCPCB, but added a couple dabs of Fujik thermal glue near two opposite edges underneath, and clamped it down overnight to set. This results in the MCPCB sitting down well in place, no screws, but still having a good thermal grease to handle most of the heat.
- Left the bare MCPCB as-is - not much issues in the beam - might do more testing at night to see if some issues. Could use black high temp paint to touch up if issues
Results: Went from 377-371 (start-30s) stock to 796-756 lumens , and throw from 7.1 kcd to 35.7 kcd (measured at 5m), that's a distance of 168m to 378m
This is what I used to open the bezel:
This for the pill:
This is what the stock driver looked like:
This is the stock LED (XM-L2), and the PITA centering/retaining ring:
Driver after the stacking/mods:
Just ordered my third. Passed the word around at work - couple guys ordered up a bunch for gifts, one guy for his truck fleet, etc.
When I grow up Tom Iâm going to be able to solder as well as you do.
Nice mod. :+1:
Yeah, what he said. Whatâs up with that?
Tom, other than the color shift towards warmer are there other benefits for the de-dome with a light of this type? Thanks.
âŚâŚ I donât know how the de-dome relates to the fact of there being a focusing lens. Does it make the focused led smaller/larger? Do we notice the lessened output of lumens? ???
Yes I have. Maybe I will make a thread of the build.