I don’t see a lot of info on these. Do they still have any redeeming qualities? They are long but also look comfortable. The battery size is probably the biggest limitation, but they do have .8-4.2v support.
Just to be clear:
Picture source: JETBeam RRT-0 Raptor,XM-L2 ,650Lm, REVIEW
I abandoned mine in favor of Zebralights. The beam has many, bright rings, and the variation in brightness just didn’t solve any issues that a decent 3-range light wouldn’t also solve.
It sits, almost unused, in my PC room (jealous of the Zebralight mule I use when working on the PC, or wiring behind same.
Do you have a smooth reflector version?
For me the low end of the Jetbeam magnetic ring interface was way, way too sensitive. That basically meant I didn’t get couldn’t take advantage of the very low min output and fine adjustment which were a huge part of why I bought the light (RRT-01 in my case) in the first place.
People clown HDS for putting the first 12 out of 24 modes of the Rotary at 2lm and below but after using both that and the RRT (and understanding that brightness is perceived logarithmically) it makes perfect sense to me. Side note: I really wonder why we don’t have a unit like decibels that would properly match human perception of brightness.
I wouldn’t call it way, way too sensitive, but what you are describing on the HDS sounds luxurious.
IDK if it’s the same with all examples but mine jumps from sub-lumen levels to 10lm+ with maybe a millimeter/a few degrees of rotation. Barely brushing the ring with my hand can massively change output.
Maybe I’ve just been spoiled by the granularity you can get for low modes on Zebralights, AT Wizards and some of the mech switch drivers with lots of low modes like Mtn-Electronics and others carry but regardless consistent and reliable moonlight/firefly is important to me and IMHO the RRT didn’t deliver in that regard. For anyone normally using their lights at say… 20lm+ the interface should be fantastic.
I have the 2019 version without a tail switch and really like it. I personally don’t see a reason for a switch. Seems like just a memory function. I had a beautiful SWM V10r Ti+ and sold it because of the switch.
The 2019 version has nice even ramping so I can quickly dial in my desired output.
Just my opinion.
Expensive gimmick. Geared toward collectors
The RRT-0 is a very durable light, if you can find one, and like the tailswitch option.
I sold my HDS “rotary” when I discovered the RRT-01
I prefer no tailswitch
I prefer smooth ramping of the RRT-01…
the HDS has 24 hops in brightness, that I found stroby, and I did not like the size, weight, price, nor tailswitch. It also lacks a screw on pocket clip
The HDS has Low Voltage Protection, and shuts the light off at 3volts
the RRT lights do not have LVP, but they get dim, and start flashing at 3v
I suspected they were rare.
The new 2020 rrt 01 is comparable but I don’t like the way the tail shroud looks like an afterthought. It should have been machined into the body like the rrt-0
I think that I will prefer a rotary with tailswitch. There are several advantages.
I respect that some people consider a tailswitch an advantage for its ability to create a Last Mode Memory
agree there is a standby drain with no switch, but have never found it to have any impact in actual use
agree the tailswitch provides the option to turn the dial all the way up, before switching on… this supports the Tactical market (RRT=Rapid Response Tactical)
however, imo, I can turn the dial up on a no button Rotary very quickly if I desire so… I dont think a button makes that faster, in fact, imo, the opposite because
a tailswitch Requires using more than one hold to operate the light
when I draw my switchless RRT-01, my hand is already on the dial, I can dial up, dial down, and reclip to pocket, faster than if operating a tailbutton is required
with a button, there are mental processes to consider… such as, where did I set the dial last time, and how do I need to hold the light to both turn it on, and select a suitable brightness.
with no button, the operation is entirely intuitive, no need to remember where the dial is set, no need to use a grip that allows manipulating both a switch and a dial, simultaneously or otherwise…
just my perspective, Im happy for anyone to experience the joy of Stepless Rotary UI, button or not
Certainly, two grips are required for complete operation of a rotary+ tailswitch. That’s why I said that I think I will like it, but I’m not sure yet.
You can also leave the switch on all the time and just use the rotary.
that is be a good option if parasitic is same
I have been trying to confirm if 2020 parasitic drain is the same as the 2019
but Im still unclear…
Yes.
fwiw, this datapoint suggests a 2020 RRT-01 loaded with 1100mAh 18350, would deplete the battery in 4 months if switched on and dialed to minimum.
by contrast the 2012 and 2019 models are estimated to last almost 3 years on standby, with a 750mAh 16340.
certainly the 2020 RRT-01 could be used with the switch left in the On position and simply dialed down to minimum, if the operator is recharging an EDC more frequently than every 4 months.
the difference in parasitic drain is quite large, but still manageable imo, if someone wants to use a 2020 RRT-01 with the dial only, and switch left on.
Ouch.
I appreciate the impetus to find out. I will now avoid upgrading my 2012 RRT-01 to the 2020 driver.
I actually have a 2020 driver I was considering using… now I wont
this also infers that someone could put a 2019 driver into a 2020 light, and then cut the parasitic drain by an order of magnitude
I think I would have greatly preferred the RRT with no switch. I only like the HDS Rotary’s setup because you can operate both controls without changing your grip at all.
Jetbeam should really look into using a logarithmic curve for the brightness on any future magnetic ring lights too, that would be a HUGE plus IMO.
new info