Thanks for talking Chinese to me. I think what your saying that if a 5 amp driver was for a 3 to 4 volt led that delivering 6 volts to a led would drop the current of the driver at the led? Yes I do need help here. Thanks.
I don’t know much about how they work…I just can relay what I’ve tested
It seems some buck drivers still deliver the same current, even with the higher Vf…but others don’t quite make it.
Some drivers, like that 3-18V 5A and the manafont 3T6 driver that we’re discussing in a current page 1 thread, are also designed for use with multiple LEDs in series…so maybe that’s why?
It’s a good idea if your reflector doesn’t interfere. If you are satisfied with having reflector rest on the emitter’s pcb, you should have adequate clearance for your wires. If you decide like I have that the emitter needs to be higher into the reflector, you will probably not have enough clearance because the star’s wire contact pads are almost touching the emitter. The Super Thrower’s reflector is much thinner than my spotlight’s reflector. So you might be lucky.
Thank you MRsDNF. I’m currently working on version 2. No pill will be in it. 3/8” copper post for emitter. The post goes perpendicularly through a 1/2” copper pipe. The 1/2” copper pipe extends out both sides of the spotlight to heat sinks. Very fancy top view diagram below (the “D” is the emitter:
EDIT: Diagram didn’t work. Anyway, the post idea is what I was recommending to you if you have wire clearance issues.
Making a pseudo-star out of copper sheet with cutouts for the wires to connect to the underside of the emitter would be the least fab work, and work just about as well as a custom pill/pillar, as long as it's sized right (thickness) to get good pressure from the reflector. What size board does the original use?
Curiosity was killing me so I went to my car and grabbed my Super Thrower. You can disregard all I said about getting the emitter higher into the reflector. This reflector is quite thin on the bottom. So it looks like it will work great resting right on the emitter’s pcb. That should give you adequate room to solder wires flat to a star.
The reflector on my S1100 is just barely too small for the entire MT-G2 PCB to pass through. I considered opening it up, but... just couldn't bring myself to do it. The base is really thin on this one, too. I reused the original XM-L plastic centering plate, it's about .040" thick, and the step up that fits inside the reflector I.D. is only about .010" high, and is just about exactly the same thickness as the MT-G substrate. So the actual die surface is something like .015" lower than the inside surface of the base of the reflector. The focus with it set up this way is so good, I'm glad I didn't touch the reflector. I don't think it would be possible to get it any better.
That is good to hear comfychair. I think MRsDNF is has the same situation. I put the MTG2 up against the Super Thrower reflector and it looks like it will be exactly as you described. In my situation the reflector has a very wide base and is very thick. Even if I could get the wires down to zero thickness, the top of the emitter is still well below the reflector’s interior.
Just checked out comfychair’s build thread for the S1100. Sounds like an great light.
I managed to goad someone on mtbr into doing a direct to copper MT-G2 mount and it worked a dream (both the goading and the mounting :laughing:, so I’d be amazed if you couldn’t do it too. In fact, I think it would be a dastardly insult to the dreams of the BLF collective if you didn’t
Wow, theres another whole world out there. This one here keeps me far to busy. That mod on the MTG was amazing. Keep throwing thinsgs at me even if its not going to get done it keeps the old cogs well and truly kicking over. Thanks a lot guys.
I think what your saying that if a 5 amp driver was for a 3 to 4 volt led that delivering 6 volts to a led would drop the current of the driver at the led? Yes I do need help here. Thanks.