I just got two 4-packs of the Hyperikon 16W (100W equivalent) 84 CRI for my garage and am quite pleased so far (only had them a couple days now, lol).
I went with 100W equivalent bulbs in my garage because of lumens-per-dollar reasons (cost).
In my shop, I use 8 foot T5 HO flourescent fixtures that make about 20,000 lumens and cost $200 including bulbs, I have 3 in a 20x22 shop space.
I considered LED strip lighting, you can get 90+ quad row LED strips that make 14,000 lumens for a 16-foot strip, but the cheapest I could find the strip itself was $130, plus the cost of the required AC/DC convertor to power them.
The A21 sized 100W equiv light bulbs cost $65 for eight (got them on sale) and make 13,000 lumens. (I mounted them all in the existing fixture with one of these and one of these)
Well. I decided to go with nichia 219c from the group buy. There is going to be a lot of work ahead of me but hopefully it works well.
For under cabinet I am going to use 219c 4000k
For over cabinet I’m using RGBW 5050 led strips
For overhead light I’m going to mix nichia 219c 3000k with Cree xpg3 5700k 90+. During the day it can be set to daylight and at night a more pleasing warm white.
I also bought a box of laptop power supplies on eBay. Nine 60w 19v supplies for $25. Now I’m looking to bid on some constant current modules.
That’s the plan for now anyway. When thinking through the steps, you realize there is a lot of small challenges to work through. So it may or may not be worth it in the end?
I believe you’ve made the right decision. After having done some research the “cheaper” products appear too generic for the amount of work involved. I wouldn’t want to mount light strips, power supplies, cables and all the bits to end up with CW, low CRI light. For a few bucks more you can have a custom solution like yours that is still affordable and also comes with higher quality.
Do you know how many emitters you’d need per foot under the cabinets? Are you going to mount two different sets of lights over the cabinets? Where do you mount the emitters - on longer PCBs? Or on the regular mcpcbs?
I’m going to mount them on aluminum sinkpads and then to some heat sinks cut from some aluminum radiators that run under the foot rails of some snowmobiles. My brother races so he has lots of these kinds of parts. I’m still calculating optics angles so I’m unsure exactly how far apart. since the smallest sections are 18” apart, I think I can go with just one set of warm and cold. Maybe use elliptical optics from carclo? Maybe even put the two in a triple optic to make sure the will blend? Not sure yet?
By the way, there is an eBay seller that has aluminum sinkpads 16 for $25 or something like that. But don’t buy him out cause I haven’t placed my order yet;)
I’ve been wondering how much current can be run through an led on a sinkpad by itself without over heating the led. With no heatsink. This will give me a baseline to try and calculate heatsink sizes. Any one know?
With regards to heatsinking, take a peek at the reviews for this 150*60*25mm Aluminum Heatsink @FastTech. 20W is doable passively on that heatsink, but I guess 30W would still be 0K because they were using the finger thermometer. Nice northbridge heatsink packs there, 2W may be doable on them without fan.
Ikea today makes quite nice and high output range of bulbs of all forms, up to 1800 lumen / e27. No PWM. Forgot the CRI but I’m satisfied visually with it. They no longer sell incadescent bulbs at all.
They just now introduced wireless color temperature changing lights so you can make them apear more reddish/orange if you wish - nice for evenings.
Alternatively there are very high CRI bridgelux array leds but require 30V Power supply.
Hmm? Ok. That seems backward to me. Thermoelectric separation makes it sound like there is electrical separation in the heat path aka a dialectic layer. Anyway, glad I’m wrong. I would have never thought they were dtp. I will be ordering some. You think the other multi emitter boards are the same?
I see no other multi-emitter boards, it may seem there are quad 5050s 20mm stars, but my guess is those are single emitter units. A quad 5050? Maybe too crowded imho.
For single emitter boards, DTP will not matter much unless you plan on driving them quite hard.
The quads are DTP and, since it's for home lighting, I really doubt an emitter slightly off-center would be noticeable at all unless you keep the lens centered over the board instead of over the emitter. I mean, sliding the MCPCB no more than 3mm over the much wider heatsink is all you would need. Alternatively, use 2 emitters in opposing corners. :-)
These Yuji BC 135L COBs look amazing, and the price isn't bad considering it's a 10-pack of 800-1000 lumens emitters. Mmm, $25 for DHL shipping to my home… :facepalm:
Of course, DTP is always preferable as the emitter/heatsink temperature delta is minimized. :THUMBS-UP:
However, with regards to driving the leds very hard for home lighting… I mean, I'd expect for their lifespan/MTBF to get considerably reduced in such a case. And that can seriously matter for lamps running lots of hours a day. 8 hours/day 300 days a year is 2400 hours, for example, and if harsh driven we may end up with fried eggs/measurably lower output after just 2 to 4 earth revolution's around the sun, I believe.
