I don’t know if this is relevant, but I’ve found the ts10 has the most issues with battery check accuracy. I have 3 of them it’s the same on them all. Something to do with the small low drain battery, obviously. I’m using the included 14500 in all of them. Maybe something to do with what you’re looking at?
I thought that it would always read too low, that just flashing the lights for the battery check is enough of a load that it would show like 0.1v lower than it is, but it’s the opposite, it reads too high. By like 0.1v or so. Like it’s overcompensating. But I have no idea how it actually checks voltage thats just how it is in my head.
I only mention it in case it’s somehow useful. Popped into my head when you said battery check and power consumption.
That sounds like a good idea to me. Other switches already do that from time to time so why not RBG.
ya I was like, no way thermal adjustment actually kicks in after 8 seconds…oh, ya, that was 8 seconds…damn
I’m going to buy a D4K single channel with 519A’s. Reading the output graphs I don’t see much sense in driving these above 4A/led.
Considering what you wrote, would it be more beneficial to order the 12A driver and set the turbo ceiling to 12A, or would it be better to ask for the 8A driver with 219B firmware with 80% fet limit, or even maybe the 1amc+FET 219B version?
The boost driver is to weak for my usage (tripod long exposure urbex photography).
I ended up ordering the single channel w2 with a backlight switch, non-rbg. It’s there and lit and working. Not sure if I got 9a or 12a or what but its the 2021-05-07-0261 noctigon k9.3 firmware that tries to tint ramp from 3H. If that means anything. I can’t remember if I’m supposed to reflash that. I know its been covered. I’ll find it later. Works good tho.
Depending on how long your long exposures are I’d still argue the boost driver makes the most sense because it can sustain its (lower) max brightness for much longer. The FET driver is only superior for like ~15 seconds.
Correct. But there are a lot of places where 2000lm is not enough, eg. large halls and some mines. I once was in an underground excavation hall where a 4000lm flashlight could not reach the end, quit an experience.
I guess the D4SV2 with the boost driver or the E07X would be ideal. but compromises need to be made.
Getting the boost driver on the biggest d4 though? Would make more sense on the smaller ones. If I were gonna put a boost driver on one it wouldn’t be the biggest one. That’s as good at disappating heat as these things get, and you can have a giant battery.
For sure I just meant you’d realize the benefits of the boost driver more so in the smaller d4v2 than in the d4s. Like, the smaller d4v2 makes a better case for the more efficient boost driver than the d4s does. I think so anyways.
Correct me if I’m wrong but for that kind of photography doesn’t a brighter light mean you can use shorter exposure times? Like the brighter the light the shorter the exposure can be?
Yes, but the question was about long exposure photography where you intentionally expose for a long time to smoothen out e.g.
the movement of clouds or running water or for more artistic techniques like light painting.
Sort of depends. Still beats the kind of light people buy in a hardware store, and will have a throwier and more intense beam than a boost driver D4 (but floodier than a boost D1K/DM11) which, while sure, I wouldn’t buy one, I still can see as a perfectly valid choice for various use cases as a general purpose jacket/jeans pocket/toolkit size light. Put one on turbo and non-enthusiasts would still be impressed. Also a perfect use case for the 26800 tube to get the absolute maximum runtime out of an enthusiast light with decent output and throw.
Also, being bigger than a D4 with LEDs driven equally hard means it can dissipate more heat, so can keep the main LEDs at a higher sustainable level. Personally, I only care about sustainable output for the first 30-60 seconds in most of my lights, but there are some people who value it a lot more than that.
Well, it’ll be cooler at the same lumen output, and it’ll step down more slowly from turbo before getting hot, the thermal limit can be the same on either light and the graph of the light’s temperature would have a similar shape, just the D4S maintaining a higher output through the stepdowns. More aluminium to heat soak + more surface to radiate it away = smoother temperature distribution and lower surface temperature to radiate away the same input of heat, so it will run cooler for the same given lumen output than a D4.
That seems like less of a lumen problem and more of a lux problem. Long, narrow areas aren’t going to be lit well by a floody light, no matter how many lumens it makes. More lumens (or longer exposures) don’t really help when the problem is far-away objects being too dim compared to nearby objects.
Instead, try changing the shape of the beam. Look for something with a higher cd/lm ratio if you want to illuminate things farther away.
For example, a D4S would be much better at it than a D4K, because the D4S has bigger optics and much better throw.
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