Where can I buy Nichia119 or UV copper mcpcb?

[shrike3612]

Hello.

I’m looking for copper mcpcb to use Nichia119 or Nichia UV like NVSU233A.

I just found AL mcpcb at here.
But I need a copper mcpcb.

Anyone who know where copper mcpcb for Nichia119 for sale?

Thanks.
Kim.

[ohaya]

There’s an older thread where texaspro was selling 119s, and there was some discussion about converting stars to work with 119s, including using kapton tape to cover the middle pad:

Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)

I recently scored a quantity of Nichia NCSW119T-H3 leds. Spec sheet is here: http://datasheet.elcodis.com/pdf2/81/97/819787/ncsw119-h3.pdf These are B09 flux bin, SW50 tint bin. They measure 4340K color temp. Measured lumens are: 350 mA - 95 lumens 380 mA - 103 lumens 700 mA - 155 lumens 1000 mA - 180 lumens Spec’d at 80 CRI typical, but these seem to do better than that. On the Sphere ’o Many Mysteries bogoCRI scale (no relation to reality) they clock in at 90… a pretty good bogoCRI numb…

Jim

[Jubeldum]

@shrike3612

Hello.

I’m looking for copper mcpcb to use Nichia119 or Nichia UV like NVSU233A.

I just found AL mcpcb at here.
But I need a copper mcpcb.

Anyone who know where copper mcpcb for Nichia119 for sale?

Thanks.
Kim.

The 6.8 mm Nichia like the NVSU333A and NCSU033B can be mounted on a MKR/XHP70 Sinkpad.

EDIT: It appears the LEDs you mentioned have only a cathode and anode. They have no thermal slug.

[shrike3612]

@ohaya

There’s an older thread where texaspro was selling 119s, and there was some discussion about converting stars to work with 119s, including using kapton tape to cover the middle pad:

Nichia 119's for cheap (also Cree XLAMP-7090's)

Jim

Thank you, but I need a mcpcb ready to use.

@Jubeldum

The 6.8 mm Nichia like the NVSU333A and NCSU033B can be mounted on a MKR/XHP70 Sinkpad.

EDIT: It appears the LEDs you mentioned have only a cathode and anode. They have no thermal slug.

Yes, I don’t know why Nichia designed no thermal pad for those LED.

[mattthemuppet]

there are no PCBs that I've ever seen that are ready to use. I simply (and carefully!) grind out the center pad on an XP-G/E star and reflow to that. No point going with copper as you can't really run these over 1A anyway.

[shrike3612]

Yup, that is my point.
I will run those LED up to 2A, therefore I’m looking for copper mcpcb due to heat.

Anyway I have to use Al mcpcb.

Thank you comment.

@mattthemuppet

there are no PCBs that I’ve ever seen that are ready to use. I simply (and carefully!) grind out the center pad on an XP-G/E star and reflow to that. No point going with copper as you can’t really run these over 1A anyway.

[mattthemuppet]

@shrike3612

Yup, that is my point. I will run those LED up to 2A, therefore I’m looking for copper mcpcb due to heat. Anyway I have to use Al mcpcb. Thank you comment.

@mattthemuppet

there are no PCBs that I've ever seen that are ready to use. I simply (and carefully!) grind out the center pad on an XP-G/E star and reflow to that. No point going with copper as you can't really run these over 1A anyway.

I'm not sure you quite understand either the 119 specs or how copper sinkpads work. First, the fact that the 119 doesn't have a thermal pad means that it won't be able to dissipate the heat above 1A or so (even the 219B is fairly mediocre at high amps compared to other LEDs), so you'll get rapidly diminishing returns ie. more heat than light. Second, sinkpad stars have a direct path to the thermal pad on LEDs, without any of the electrical insulation layer under the pads. If the LED doesn't have a thermal pad, the whole point of a copper star is pretty pointless - the metal isn't the limiting factor, it's the insulation.

If you want high CRI and high amps, pony up for the 219B or C. They're not that much more expensive than the 119s and a quite a bit more efficient, without any of the star hassles.

[Werner]

2A is probably doable but as others have said maybe you should consider another led.
Here is a 10x10mm pcb for the 119
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/kpGvQ2k9

[shrike3612]

Actually I’m not consider using Nichia119 but Nichia UV LED.

@mattthemuppet

@shrike3612

Yup, that is my point. I will run those LED up to 2A, therefore I’m looking for copper mcpcb due to heat. Anyway I have to use Al mcpcb. Thank you comment.

@mattthemuppet

there are no PCBs that I’ve ever seen that are ready to use. I simply (and carefully!) grind out the center pad on an XP-G/E star and reflow to that. No point going with copper as you can’t really run these over 1A anyway.

I’m not sure you quite understand either the 119 specs or how copper sinkpads work. First, the fact that the 119 doesn’t have a thermal pad means that it won’t be able to dissipate the heat above 1A or so (even the 219B is fairly mediocre at high amps compared to other LEDs), so you’ll get rapidly diminishing returns ie. more heat than light. Second, sinkpad stars have a direct path to the thermal pad on LEDs, without any of the electrical insulation layer under the pads. If the LED doesn’t have a thermal pad, the whole point of a copper star is pretty pointless - the metal isn’t the limiting factor, it’s the insulation.

If you want high CRI and high amps, pony up for the 219B or C. They’re not that much more expensive than the 119s and a quite a bit more efficient, without any of the star hassles.

[shrike3612]

Thank you for info!

@Werner

2A is probably doable but as others have said maybe you should consider another led.
Here is a 10x10mm pcb for the 119
OSH Park ~

[djozz]

As already mentioned, the Nichia 119 size UV leds have their max at 700mA (I tested one myself, over 800mA the output goes down), and because of the sharp rise of the output with increasing current followed by a quite sudden levelling at 700mA I suspect that the 800mA maximum is not temperature related but it is about the maximum that the die can deliver. Other single colour or white leds of this die size do not start to get into thermal problems at 800mA, and DTP copper boards usually start out giving a useful benefit over 1.5A. If it had a dedicated thermal pad (which it has not) I think you could not squeeze much more out of it, even if it was on a DTP copper board.

But I do not rule out that reality could be different...

[mattthemuppet]

@shrike3612

Actually I’m not consider using Nichia119 but Nichia UV LED.

ah, I'm sorry, I completely misread your original post where you said you wanted to use a 119 LED *slaps forehead*

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

Except for the new breed. While it might be true that you can’t push the NVSU233A really hard, you might “pony up” for the NVSU333A and go 3.5A, at which point the copper really matters. And pony up you will, as the 233A costs $13 while the 333A costs $110.

[djozz]

@DB Custom

Except for the new breed. While it might be true that you can’t push the NVSU233A really hard, you might “pony up” for the NVSU333A and go 3.5A, at which point the copper really matters. And pony up you will, as the 233A costs $13 while the 333A costs $110.

Dale, I was actively trying to forget that led and now it is in my head again!

(....you led, go away! no need for you! that is a specialists application led, no good for hobbying!.... yes, but let me just put one in a flashlight and I can cure your fillings from a mile away....that's what I say: nothing sensible can be done with it, let it go djozz...)

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

It’s So PRETTY! And large! And POWERFUL! 3 times more powerful than any other UV LED on the market! Yeah Baaaaby!

[shrike3612]

@DB Custom

Except for the new breed. While it might be true that you can’t push the NVSU233A really hard, you might “pony up” for the NVSU333A and go 3.5A, at which point the copper really matters. And pony up you will, as the 233A costs $13 while the 333A costs $110.

Would you tell me where NVSU233A is on sale at $13? I found 233A on ledrise.com, but they sells it at $46.

[shrike3612]

djozz, I already saw your review and thank you so much.

As tested NCSU276A’s max current is 700mA but NVSU233A has 1400mA max current as Nichia datasheet.
Therefore I just tried to modify NVSU233A to my Armytek Predator v2.5.

All of things are just my wish or thought for modding.

If there is copper mcpcb to fit with Nichia119 foot print, I will modify my Predator. :bigsmile:

@djozz

As already mentioned, the Nichia 119 size UV leds have their max at 700mA (I tested one myself, over 800mA the output goes down), and because of the sharp rise of the output with increasing current followed by a quite sudden levelling at 700mA I suspect that the 800mA maximum is not temperature related but it is about the maximum that the die can deliver. Other single colour or white leds of this die size do not start to get into thermal problems at 800mA, and DTP copper boards usually start out giving a useful benefit over 1.5A. If it had a dedicated thermal pad (which it has not) I think you could not squeeze much more out of it, even if it was on a DTP copper board.

But I do not rule out that reality could be different…

[Jubeldum]

@DB Custom

It’s So PRETTY! And large! And POWERFUL! 3 times more powerful than any other UV LED on the market! Yeah Baaaaby!

Don’t forget that it will look even more pretty mounted on a copper MKR/XHP70 Sinkpad.
So when does the group buy start?

[DB_Custom (Dale)]

It’s my intention to mount the 333A on copper, in a full copper host.

The 233A can be had cheapest directly from your Nichia representative.

[shrike3612]

Thanks, I have to find Nichia Sales rep. on my country first.

@DB Custom

It’s my intention to mount the 333A on copper, in a full copper host.

The 233A can be had cheapest directly from your Nichia representative.