There’s a GB for 3 new Niwalker lights I found interesting. Not knowing much about Niwalker I decided to check them out here and found some very favorable reviews.
The issue is that the light I like seems like it actually ends up being very similar to the Q8 except for the price!
New Niwalker MF5SV1:
2x XHP70.2 + 1x XHP35 HI
15,000 luemns with Ansi rated 10,000 lumens* with 850m throw 440kcd
*WalkintoTheLight reiewed the nearly identical MM18JR and found that it produced 13,500 lumens even though it was rated 10,000 ansi
I really like the Niwalker dual led design giving the ability to choose flood, throw or both (really like this solution compared to a zoomie!)
I know nothing about Niwalker but they seem to be very well reviewed here on BLF?
Can anyone see a difference between this MF5SV1 and the MM18JR?
Other than what BlueSword mentioned already, the Q8 is: cheap, can run off only a single 18650 if needed, has an almost perfectly balanced beam between throw/flood but you can increase either with some XP-L HIs for throw or diffusion film for flood.
Just depends on how much performance you want/need and how much you’re willing to shell out for it.
Bluesword, I’ve read the following thread explaining the difference between drivers: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/28594
Does the Q8 utilize a buck driver? If it’s powering 3x XHP70.2 wouldn’t that require 9v meaning it couldn’t run off a single 18650 unless heavily boosted? Or does that mean it’s using a buck driver and the leds are wired in parallel? lol more questions: can you run leds in parallel? does that just result in lower output than running in series?
Now that I have some knowledge of drivers I’d like to understand why a boost driver or a buck driver is actually preferred in multi led set-ups? I’m assuming a boost driver in a multi led set-up would allow you to drive the leds harder at max voltage which I’m assuming requires more current and thus diminishes runtimes?
Does that mean when wiring leds, using them in parallel is most common as you can utilize a single driver to power all leds instead of requiring a different driver for each? or is that only the case with linear/direct drivers?
Interesting. I didn’t realize you can get a boost/buck driver. Sorry I’m such a newb but what is a FET driver? is there another driver category other than the four discussed in that other thread? direct/linear/buck/boost
Wow, I didn’t realize the XHP35 HI has a typical forward voltage of 11.3v (just looked at crees website). I’m assuming then that 6v regulated is a choice by mfg of a happy medium between runtime/output?
On a side note: a question for all you fellows with in depth knowledge, advanced equipment and building/modding skills out the wazoo. Are most of you engineers by trade and come across most this knowledge in your field? or did your fascinations with lights/electronics drive your need for knowledge?
When wiring in parallel, you are basically creating 1 large LED array running at say 3V.
For example, say you have 4x XP-L HDs being run at 3,4V 3A. In parallel, it acts like a giant 3,4V 12A LED :).
FET drive= direct drive.
The voltage doesn’t matter as much as total power. You could have a 12V LED running at lower power than a 6V LED. Say, a 6V 3A LED, and a 12V 1A LED. The 6V 3A LED will use 18W, while the 12V 1A LED will use 12W.
For that last question, I’ve mostly learned by doing a lot of math, a lot of research, and quite a bit of chemistry/physics learning.
It seems the driver and battery configuration play huge roles but is there really any difference in running series vs parallel emitters? For example if you had a quad 18650 set up running 3 series 1 parallel you’re netting 10.8V 6000Mah likely boosted to 12V.
If you ran 4x series each emitter is drawing 3V 1.5A total 3V 6A
If you ran 4x parallel the series is drawing 3V 6A
If you run led in parallel is it the same as incandescent where an emitter failure breaks the circuit and the entire series fails until the bad emitter is replaced?
lol I agree that their throw specs make no sense but the consensus appears to be that this is a result of not double checking written information. The proof that they do stand behind their measurements is that when Maukka tested the MM18JR which has an ansi 10,000 lumens his tests showed 9,650 lumens.
lol compare that to a company like Imalent who tests up to 30% lower than claimed lumens