Why is the MK-R (relatively) ignored in DIY flashlights?

I’ve got a triple 12v MK-R project in the works using a TN30 host (with the LED’s in parallel) and a current bump, should be a pretty cool light when I’m done.

CK, can you push these MK-Rs like you can with MT-G2s?

No clue, this’ll be my first time ever even seeing one light up in person. I’ll certainly give it a try tho lol. I’m figuring 3 12v emitters in parallel on DTP copper should be able to handle whatever I can coax out of the TN30 driver.

Wonder what a 20mm boost driver and the cool white 6v would look like in a SK98 host

I wonder if those copper stars are true DTP or the ones with the dielectric substrate blocking heat flow

I would bet money that they are not direct copper like a sinkpad. Looking at the back they look like the same poor quality as the ones with the dielectric substrate. Still if you take the time to lap them down nice and flat you can drive them fairly hard. If you really want to you can even sand it down so that you make a kind of sinkpad out of them.

Oh and thanks billnye I might just have to give them a try. Not sure what on but probably something floody with multiple emitters to even out the beam pattern and maybe mix and match some warm whites with cool whites.

Theres a light built with one here.

18sixfifty, you’re exactly the type of crazy guy who would do this:

J19 (with 3 batteries) with 3 12V MK-Rs with a zenner modded BLF FET driver. I think it would work!

My question is: why would you chose MK-R over MT-G2 besides it being cheaper?

Its 1/4 the price. Should have similar output. Available in cool/neutral/warm. But really price is it.

The quad die thing is the real downside I think. We went through that already with Cree’s MC-E and SSC’s P7. A big die is much better than quad die for flashlight applications.

So I bought 5 MK-R’s here for a whopping $4 a piece. They arrived, slowly and without tracking, but they came.

I swapped the emitter out of my Yetzl Y3. No driver modifications or anything, just taking the XM-l out and putting a dab of artic silver and the MK-R in its place.

Pulls around 17 watts from my PS with the worlds most high resistance leads from a harbor freight DMM and about 18-19 watts from 3 26650s. And it’s very very bright. I’d estimate 2k lumens.

The beam isn’t smooth (you can see the separation between the dies if you’re white wall hunting inside), but outside it’s a great light. It took a while to center the emitter, and now that it’s where I want it I will never open the head again. But a $4 mod that doubles (at least) the output of a light I bought for $25 - that’s what BFL is all about!

very nice!

Hmm, that does sound legit. :smiley:

I won’t pay $10 for one on eBay and the 5pc MOQ at $4/ea… hmmm.

Another stuff to cram into a Courui converted to 3S.

anything to compare it with? any lux numbers? ryanferg

I’ll try and find my lux meter this weekend. I should have taken before and after readings, but I just got too excited/am too lazy. I’ll also try and get some beam shots comparing my K40M, which I think outputs approx the same amount of light on level 5 as my Y3 on high.

I see various places reporting that the MK-R will output 1800 lumens at 15W, which I’m over shooting. But adjusting for driver efficiency, that might be about what is going to the emitter.

Any updates on this stuff? :slight_smile:

I think a project where I can make use of a handful of inexpensive quad-die things like these is starting to crystallize in my mind.

I put an MK-R in a Ultrafire 505B just out of curiosity, when compared to an MT-G2 also driven at 3.04 amps I can not tell a difference visually.

The trick to getting rid of the dark artifacts in the MK-R is focus, you can just drop an MT-G2 in and not fuss too much with focus, however spend a few minutes with the MK-R and raise the reflector slighty and you get a beam that is virtually indistinguishable to the naked eye.

As far as data, I have no way to measure output but for 1/3rd of the price of the MT-G2 it is a big win.

Both the MT-G2 and MK-R show small artifacts when white wall hunting up close but not in real world use.

Just my personal experience.

If anyone has the ability to make some real measurements, I’ll send you an MKR so we can get some real readings. Please only volunteer if you’re more willing to actually take some readings (well, more motivated and willing than I am apparently).

From what I understand, MKR has the same layout as the new XHP70. So I expect to see some Noctigons that will work for this in the future. SinkPAD has a MKR now too.
http://www.sinkpad.com/inner-product.php?id=54