He may have overlooked manual memory, which can be freely adjusted.
but it does not depend on memory, mine will always enter at the lowest level set, regardless of the last mode, if i just press and hold from off
the OP bought a light without Anduril
now he has to buy another light… LOL!
I’d say check this:
here is a deep carry clip solution for the D4V2
pic is a link
While not a side switch, I’ve got a shorty body on my FW1A Pro.
Not Anduril but I’ve got a shorty body on my D4 too.
Both are super compact.
The Thrunite T1 doesn’t have Anduril - that’s the light that I was referring to in the OP.
I like everything about it, except the UI and lack of lighted switch.
Smallest Anduril light I own - 66mm / 2.75” length.
Deep carry clip from an FW1A.
Why not! HD20, TS21 with 20350 tube, can be powered by 18350
She’s a thiccc girl Terry
I wish Hank had designed the short tube like the long one. No need for a knurling, but it would have looked so much nicer imo.
The TS21 with short tube appears be a viable option, if floody enough and not to fat to carry clipped inside the outside corner of my back pants pocket.
I just ordered the TS21 with battery and 20350 tube from the Wurkkos website.
It will take 2 - 4 weeks to receive the flashlight in America from China.
I really wish that they had been in stock on Amazon for faster shipping.
If you’re into Anduril I would not buy any non-Hank light right now. Hank’s are the only ones with a flashing key that lets you reprogram the software without taking the light completely apart (i.e. unsoldering stuff), from what I can tell. The current development versions of Anduril have significant improvements over the stuff being shipped in any production light today. With a Hank light, that is no problem at all— you just download the newest code and flash it. With other lights you have an electronics project on your hands. Even ToyKeeper says the code in most of her lights are out of date because of this headache.
With your Hank light don’t forget to get the USB flashing gizmo that is $14.50 or so (works with all his Anduril lights). Some future Anduril lights will use a less complicated interface based on newer chips, but those are not out there yet.
FW3A sure gets short w/18350 tube, IMHO…
Next to an FWAA:
Very, very cool. Can you elaborate on the components you used to put that together?
Thanks. Started with a gray FW3A. Mods: a copper 18350 tube sold for the FW3A, the stainless steel bezel option, a GITD tape strip in that groove along the tail grip, and then a GITD insert that goes under the TIR optic. Mine is green, but my phone camera mucked with the color making it look aqua.
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Thanks for the info, and LOL on the camera color version. I dig the aqua!!
No prob. I agree, aqua looks better, but unfortunately doesn’t “pop” as madly as the green in the start. Unreal how bright the green can get. And it lasts longer too.