It could be done easy enough, take a look at a few of the Variable voltage Electronic Cigarettes. The early ones were using thumb wheel pots and used 14500ās and 18650ās.
There is even a pot that you set to the desired watts and put in the bottom of an 18650 tube e-cig.
@ Pulsar, you should hook a LED up to the Lavatube and see what happens.
Off topic, but many E-cig people would go absolutely guano crazy reading the stories about people who use stacked batteries in flashlights. They make a huge deal about using a single battery in an e-cig without having a vent hole.
By the way, for some of you who use iffy stacked batteries or unprotected pulls it wouldnāt be a bad idea to drill a small vent hole in your light if you arenāt worried about it being 100% water proof. You could even fill the hole with something that would easily pop out if you did have a venting mishap. (just food for thought)
You donāt necessarily need to sacrifice waterproofing. A relief is quite easily done by drilling a tiny hole through your tailcap button (just avoid the conductive parts). Leave the boot as it is, so the light will still be waterproof.
If the battery vents, pressure will equalize through to the rubber boot and that will be the first to rip or pop off.
Maybe, maybe not. A lot of chemical reactions (particularly those that involve burning) increase exponentially with pressure. If the hole is too small to let the pressure out fast enough, you still get the earth shattering kaboom.
Iām happy to say my car was not Y2K compliant, but somehow the carburetor and manual choke survived the transition
unfortunately i had to re-vulcanize my tires
I bought a few of these for about a buck apiece for power supply use. For audio I like Alps Blue Velvet's. There are better pots out there, but for the money you pretty much can't beat them
A āpotentiometerā is manufactured (if you take one apart ā I recommend huge overvoltages (mit schpitzenschparken!!) for that job) almost exactly like its schematic diagram. In effect, it acts (āisā?) a pair of resistors, one connected from the wiper to āoneā end, the other connected from the wiper to the āotherā end. As you decrease the R on āoneā, you INcrease R on the āotherā. End-to-end R is unaffected by the wiper.
You are correct that a pot is NOT a varistor, and (inverse implied) that a varistor is not a pot. But thatās not what the OP wanted to discuss.
Maybe you were thinking about a rheostat? Except that you ādumb downā a pot when you need a rheostatā¦
Iām assuming you were in a big hurry to get to work or somewhere & left a typo.
Hereās what I think:
At the scale weāre using here (handheld torches) thereās no pot big enough for the job AND small enough to fit the bounding box. Use the POT for āR1ā (usually) to control the feedback loop. Until someone figures out how to use the ESR of the LED for that, a pot or a rheo is the only way to vary FB after manufacturing.
āThis product fills a very special niche. That niche is people who want to waste a lot of money but who do not want to buy drugs, eat at fancy restaurants, travel, have no taste for expensive wines, and hate automobiles and boats. If you are one of these people, welcome.ā