To my knowledge no one has built a farther throwing light with a red emitter than this.
I have built hundreds of lights with red emitters and have done all kinds of tests with red lenses over white lights.
Red lenses over white lights kill 60-75% of the throw.period.real world testing not just reading data sheets.
Kevin
amber thrower
a plus for glass:
Take for example the Red colors if your Russian the “beautiful colors” (you would think the “Reds” would call Red, Red. But they dont.) :~
If using a glass lens (specfically photo lenses) we have the options of choosing/changing from 590/630/660/720/850/950nm+ nanometer lens ranges, you just cant do that with a emitter.
I really like the c21c and somthing I noticed is that by using both a 635 emitter and a red (unknown but I assume 590nm) lens they have eliminated that darn orange hot spot.
Note the log scale on this image — “halfway up” the Y axis is only ten percent of the output.
Still useful once you note exactly how the scale works, to see how many photons of each wavelength are being transmitted (or filtered out)
This whole site is a thorough and exhaustive discussion of wavelengths from the point of view of darkroom illumination.
For instance (as Ronin42 notes) a glass darkroom filter allows a very narrow band, while a led allows a relatively wider band of wavelengths.
We can and plenty of hunters use them... Candela loss will happen but if that meets our wanted range requirements (for most hunters/photo enthusiasts that is under 100m) with filter changing we can have all in one set and it should not be bad at all.
if you us a color led with a filter i think its better .
i have one 503b red xpg with before the atmoffere lens a red filter.
you lose not realy brightness but the flashlight are more tempered.
An excellent chart from hanks found site
“This slide shows how both rod and cone photoreceptors in the eye take time to dark adapt, but the rod vision is ultimately about 1000 times more sensitive at very low light levels.”
try it first, than tell us how it went, especially with red filter
I have red/green/blue/yellow/frosted filters. Red is really useful for not breaking your night vision at night,blue look close to UV and highlight neon colors,green is like red but you see better,frosted give flood which is useful for close work and yellow is useless with ugly tint. Filter work better with high CRI value.
I don’t have any color LED so I can’t compare but filters are enough for casual use.
I use red LED’s almost exclusively hunting hogs at night. I can tell you the XP-E2 on a noctigon are better than the XP-E and the XR-E. I typically push mine a little harder than 1.4A and usually add another 4135 to the driver. From experience, the red filters suck. The light is much more dim and is basically I unusable at any distance.
How much are the red XP-E2’s in Europe? I keep hearing how expensive they are. Just curious as I am about to send some to a member over there that he had me order.
try leds, you will see the difference. filters with bulbs perform good and do offer flexabuility (1 light, many colors), but with leds, you loose performance. they work but not as good as they would with bulbs, and not as well as color leds. we can write pages of text but you need to try one to see the differnce.
filters on leds remind me of cassete tape adapters, you can plug cd player in there and it would work with your cassete deck, but not as good as if you used cd player in a first place.
not to mention nowadays you need just 1 led like mce, or xml colors and have 4 colors rgbw, or triple or quad star with 3-4 color leds. and with rgb controller you can make up pretty much almost any color, and shade you want.
You can compare the spectra — the vertical axis is, roughly, how many photons are getting through. The horizontal axis is wavelength.