V11r lets you start at ANY brightness.
Simply rotate the ring to your desired setting before pressing the button to turn on the light.
W1 has better tint than SST20.
SFT40 physically wouldn’t fit in the light.
Nice. When I have a bit of time, maybe tomorrow, I’ll update the review. Thanks 
1 Thank
Actually, SFT-40 will fit into the V11r even easier than SST-20.
This is because SFT-40, SST-40 and XML all use the same XM footprint. It’s easy to replace the V11r’s stock XML2 led by reflowing it off and replacing it with SFT-40 using the same star.
Swapping in a smaller XP footprint led like SST-20, LH351D or 519a, isn’t hard … but you will need to supply a replacement XP star.
I meant the KC1.
2 Thanks
Whoops! hard to keep things straight when talking about 2 different lights in a thread titled “V11r”. 
3 Thanks
Yeah, I’ve been updating the title each time I post a new review just to make it obvious since that seems to be common for other people. Sorry for the confusion 
Maybe just post separate reviews w separate titles?
then if you want, maybe include a link to “find all wolfgirl42 reviews”
3 Thanks
W1 has one CCT: 6500K 6000K
SST-20 has many CCT options, ranging from 2700K to 6500K
Yeah, I know. You were talking about tint, not CCT. W1 are much closer to BBL than cool SST20 which tend to be significantly above. TBH I really don’t see that much difference between 6000k and 6500k if the DUV is similar, and I find that neutral or negative 7000k is still nice too. Better tint (and better throw) is why W1/W2 are often preferred over cool SST20, especially since the 6500k SST20 has marginally higher output so the only reasons to go for W2 over it in most lights are throw and tint.
Also, W1 are 6000k, not 6500. W1 6000k = nice tint (neutral, close to DUV). SST20 6500k = worse tint (more positive DUV; i.e. greener).
Unless you just meant that you’d take a warm SST20 and just categorically don’t like cool CCTs, I guess, which I 100% disagree with (but then again, I really don’t get the dedome hype, IMO 519A are better in every single way with the dome on, and if I want throwy 4000k I’ll just get 4000k SST20 instead for higher output… 5700k are the only 519A dedomes I’d ever consider even close to general purpose as opposed to a toy)
1 Thank
Sorry, I sometimes conflate CCT and tint… as temperature affects the color cast of an LED beam. Fixed typo above (W1 being 6000K).
Yes, for 6000k, I’d also prefer W1 or W2 over SST-20. They’re also inherently more efficient (although I do not know the comparative stats).
Interesting what you’re saying about 519A dome vs. dedome. My understanding is that by dedoming a 5700K, you’re getting a CCT closer to 4500k and with a bit more throw vs. spill, instead of going with a domed 4500k. Did I get that wrong?
Yeah, that’s correct (although my 519A 5700k dedome lights are closer to 4000k), but you also get a lower DUV, meaning the light is redder and further away from BBL. Some people love it, I can take a bit of red but if it’s too much it might as well be green to me, and I find close to BBL most pleasant. It also reduces CRI a bit (due to too much red) and output by a similar drop to CCT.
1 Thank
I guess that’s also why some people took the Nichia 219B 9080 sw45k to be the epitome of desirable CCT, because of that rosy hue… while some people would prefer output to have a more neutral warmth.
I can appreciate both, but for EDC usability, a neutral CCT with just a slight cast of warmth works best with my eyes.
Yeah. For me the epitome of desirable tint is 519A 5000k…
1 Thank
2024: 01-08: Had a bit of a longer delay than I anticipated between a hectic work schedule and some health problems. Did take a bit of time to improve some of my processes, as well as hopefully make the site CSS better for users of small screens. Also added an RSS feed, which I’d had a couple of requests to do. Anyway, reviewed the JetBeam RRT01 Raptor, which I got after getting to play with the V11R.
https://wolfgirlreviews.com/review/jetbeam/rrt01/
I also hopefully made the site more small-screen-friendly. I know it’s still not ideal on large screens, but that is on my todo list, as is improving the way galleries are displayed. I don’t hugely enjoy web development, so tend to work on it sporadically when I get specific creative energy to. oembed support is probably next.
6 Thanks
Great review. Very thorough, nice photos, graphs, and beam shots.
After getting my first Jetbeam, the M64, which I like very much, I ordered the RRT01, from banggood a couple of months ago. It arrived not working - DOA. It took a few weeks, and much hassle, getting the runaround, filing a complaint through paypal, etc., to finally get my $$ refunded. (Beware of banggood dot com!)
I decided against ordering another from a more local supplier. Even though banggood shipped it in the factory box with no additional packing, I question its durability & ruggedness if it couldn’t stand the rigors of getting banged around during shipping. Too bad that’s not something that can be tested in reviews. Slam it around until it dies, and then describe the process of how you killed it, haha.
I know that’s not totally fair, because it’s hard to tell what really happened, and it could be a solid light, but it’s fairly expensive, and since I’m not hell bent on having a rotary UI, I ordered other lights that I wanted. I actually prefer step up modes anyway, and really just bought it on a whim.
So now I still have the dead RRT01. I’ve never really torn lights apart, but I’m sure there are folks here on the forum that could probably repair it. Could be something simple.
Again, nice review, and congrats on your site. I hope it’s a fun adventure for you.
You could have just got a light that left the factory faulty; in my opinion the packaging is at least average.
If you want to buy me a light to then maybe - I dropped mine onto a wooden floor from seated height a couple of times in testing (accidentally) and it didn’t have any impact or leave any visible marks, I’d guess that’s probably a bigger hit than during normal shipping.
I’ve received one DOA light in total out of my whole collection, so it does happen, I guess you were probably unlucky.
1 Thank
I’ve got an RRT01 with a Nichia 519A 5700K in it. Very nice little light, but I wish it had LVP. Totally agreed about the awful extension tubes. They do not match the light very well and it loses all of its charm with them installed.
3 Thanks
Yes, same here, I’ve ordered lots of lights, and that’s the first DOA I’ve gotten. Too bad the seller made it a horrible experience.
I’ve also dropped quite a few lights, even onto concrete, and only once did it kill the light. It was a fairly old Fenix, long out of warranty. I inquired about paying to get it repaired. They had me send it in, and to my surprise, they sent me a new light, free of charge. So in that case, the seller made it a great experience. Needless to say, they got a customer for life, and banggood will never get a cent from me again.
I think dropping a light, or cell phone, or anything electronic, really has everything to do with the angle that it hits. Most of the time there will be no problem, but a certain angle can put enough force on something to crack a solder joint or circuit board, cause a component to fail, etc.
I have an RRT01 and I like it.
I hate the extension tubes, but I guess I hate 18350s more…
I didn’t know it didn’t have LVP, but I’ve charged it often enough that it hasn’t been a problem.
Ripsshine HF1 review is now live!
2 Thanks