I don't have any of those lights, are tailcap parts compatible with Convoy(especially threads)?
I couldn’t tell you, I don’t have any convoy lights (yeh, I know, a blf’er without a convoy :zipper_mouth_face: )
Can you post pics at different angles of one soldered to switch contacts?
Even with a “turn-key” illuminated switch, your driver may not be up to the task. Many require a bleeder resistor in order to function properly. So I don’t think it’ll be as easy as just buying some switches, unfortunately.
I’ve done my fair share of illuminated switches - I love them. I’ve put ’em in Convoy S2 / S2+ / M1 / C8, Astrolux S41S & SS, Brinyte B158, etc. I use the PD68 Rev5.3 ring boards, similar in appearance to what Lexel is displaying. Bright, efficient, and 6 LEDs with up to 2 (sometimes 3) different colors.
I don’t really want to open up shop and have a flood of requests, but I’d be willing to help a BLF’er or two fulfill their dreams of a custom illuminated switch. Due to the bleeder resisters, it’d probably be best to send the entire light back & forth. Shipping wouldn’t be cheap, but at least you’d know it would work upon receipt without any fiddling around.
Samples… left to right: Astrolux S41S with blue & green, hand-polished Convoy S2+ with cool white, Astrolux SS with blue & white, Convoy S2 with blue, Convoy M1 with green
I have 4 of Lexel’s LED rings just gathering dust.
Got my rainbow lighted switch modules in yesterday. They are excellent! MastyrOfPuppitz do you still need photos of them installed?
I can’t solder. Said it from the beginning. It’s why I started the topic in the first place. I was seeking turnkey. The turnkey I bought before making this thread were not bright. Now I have parts sitting in a box. I’ve given up on flashlight modding and turned to modding multitools and collecting knives. Would I like to see pics….yes. Will it change anything, no. I can’t solder. Period.
for the lighted switch boards just 2 copper strands through the LED board holes
solder them
the polarity has to be followed
- on the tube side
- on the spring
then solder those 2 copper strands to the switch
pretty easy to do, maybe you train on something else, but soldering is not hard on this part of the flashlight
I have had multiple people show me how to solder. Every time I try it doesn’t work. Every single one has been astonished that me doing the same exact thing they do doesn’t solder. It’s quite odd. These people consist of: master plumbers, master electricians, biomedical engineers, electronic engineers, and industrial engineers. There aren’t many things I’ve tried and failed repeatedly, but this is one.
there is not much to do
hold solder tip(clean and with a bit solder sticking to it) on the part you want to solder
optional add some flux to the parts, sometimes the one in the wire is not enough
add solder in form of a wire with flux core
see when the solder is molten and has both parts covered
remove solder tip
done
the most important thing is to have a good solder tip on the right temperature,
if its crappy or totally burned and oxidized and too hot it wont solder good
and the solder wire should not be too thick or thin
I can help solder the parts for you if you mail them to me. I’m just 1 state over. Send me a pm.
Lexel, I know how. Why I do exactly what is shown to me with the same equipment that was used and it doesn’t work is a mystery (which is basically the same thing I posted in my previous post).