You’re welcome 
I’m out of stock, ETA 2-3 weeks
It’s compatible with the new Emisar D3AA? The layout aparently it’s the same of the Wurkkos TS10 that it worked for me.
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Considering thefreeman made that driver, I am pretty sure his adapter will work for it.
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The D3AA uses an AVR32DD20 MCU that can be programmed with UPDI, it has a standard flashing pad layout so my programmers and Gchart’s are compatible.
But, it appears the 3.3V version of my programmer isn’t very reliable with this driver, the one I used during development works fine but the one I sent to Toykeeeper worked sporadically, I did find another one from what I’ve left that also couldn’t power the driver correctly.
Presumably the problem is that it can’t provide enough power due to the relatively high inrush current of this driver, it might be just at the limit so it can work with some programmers but not others.
If you have a 3.3V programmer (written on the back) and have trouble flashing your (future) D3AA, please message me.
The first versions didn’t have a voltage marking, they’re 5V and should work without problem.
The next batch of programmers will be 4.5V with more output capacitance and should not have this sort of problem.
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@thefreeman I’d like to order two of your flashing adapters (to Germany), please. Could you PM me? Thanks
Good news : the programmers are in stock again.
This is a new version (V2.0) :
- 4.5V with larger output capacitance for drivers with higher inrush current (e.g. D3AA), while still compatible with a 4.6V max part used in unreleased drivers.
- ESD protected.
- Long narrow profile for unibody lights.
- Additional back LED for better illumination of the driver.
- Staggered header holes for plugging male headers (no soldering required).
Now the flashing kit comprises of :
- the programmer.
- 3 pins male header.
- 3 female to female dupont wires with pogo pins plugged in one end, this allows to flash non standard layout with 2.54mm pitch from Sofirn and Wurkkos.
The not so good news is that the cost of everything has increased since I started selling UPDI programmers back in 2022 : parts, shipping, PayPal fees ( I get more payments from PayPal I don’t want my account to get banned since F&F is against their TOS for selling goods), and taxes. So I’ll increase the price to 14€ shipped, this doesn’t cover the entire cost increase but I don’t really want to go higher.
For payment, additionally to Paypal I started accepting Revolut a while back, which allows paying either from a Revolut account without fees, or directly from a card, since there are no fees on my end the price is lower at 13.2€.
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Two question please:
-
If the previous generation 3.3 V Programmer is used in an attempt to flash a D3AA, is the only risk that it may not work or is there the chance that something could be damaged?
-
If the 3.3 V Programmer is unable to flash a D3AA, would it be possible to modify it by supplying 5 V DC power to the “+” and “-” pads on the 3.3 V Programmer, or would I risk damaging either the 3.3 V Programmer or the D3AA driver or the USB-C port on the Android device using ZflasherAVR which is connected to the programmer?
I would be supplying the 5 V DC power to the programmer from the USB-A port of the typical type of charger you plug into a power outlet to charge your cell phone since I do not have an accurate bench power supply.
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- No damage, the power LED on the programmer will blink indefinitely if the driver fails to power up, if the LED becomes solid, then you can attempt to flash.
- The wiring of the CH340N chip is different whether it’s powered with 3.3V or 5V, the V3 pin is connected to VCC (3.3V) in the 3.3V programmer. In a 5V/4.5V programmer V3 is not connected to VCC and decoupled with 100nF. I’m guessing V3 is the output of the 3.3V internal LDO of the chip, it probably wont like 5V on it (the datasheet isn’t really helpful here).
Here are two modifications (one or the other) one can do to the 3.3V programmer for flashing the D3AA if it has trouble with it.
- Cutting the 3.3V trace (shown in red) between the output of U2 (3.3V LDO) and the + pogo pin, then soldering a wire between the input of U2 (USB 5V) and the + Pogo pin (shown in orange). This will provide 5V to the driver and keep the CH340N chip powered by 3.3V.
- adding some output capacitance, for example with an electrolytic capacitor plugged into the header holes (blue), it should work without soldering, still 3.3V supplied to the driver, but the added capacitance should help with the inrush current.
3 Thanks
Thanks for the above information.
I am curious and forgot to ask a question concerning the following new feature:
Is the new “Long narrow profile” long enough to flash the Sofirn LT1S Pro through the battery tube without disassembling the LT1S Pro?
It was already possible to do this with the shorter adapter, but it should be easier with the long version.
OK and thank you for your many useful informative posts. They are greatly appreciated.
When using the short adapter, it was easier and faster for me (since I do not update my LT1S Pros very often) to disassemble the LT1S Pro (I have three of them since we frequently lose power) than to figure out some ideal way to extend the short adapter (which you have thankfully done) to be able to easily grip it and also see into the battery tube in order to correctly align the programmer onto the flashing pads.
For what it’s worth, I used gchart’s shorty adapter key to flash my LT1S Pro several times - there was enough stiffness in my USB-C cable to make good contact between the pogo pins & the flashing pads without any additional setup needed…
My flashing adapters are also from forum member gchart since I am located in the US and I am assuming the 3.3 Volt Version 6 adapters from gchart that I recently received are similar to the 3.3 V adapters from thefreeman.
After using an older 5 Volt Version 2 adapter from gchart for well over a hundred flashes, the USB-C connector became slightly loose, but it still works fine, so I am being careful not to put additional stress on it. Also, after somehow bricking one Sofirn SP10 Pro, I am now extra careful keeping the adapter aligned on the pads during flashing and would not feel comfortable just using the cable for this with my loose USB connector. Fortunately the LT1S Pro is easy to disassemble, but an adapter longer than the battery tube would make it even easier.
Ahhh - gotcha.
Yeah, it’s certainly an easy light to get to the guts of, I just saw what I was dealing with & went for it…
Then I saw the Freeman’s long-boy & a light went off in my head.
I also have one from gchart, it saids V5 on it. Not sure if it’s good for the d3aa or not.
It should be.
(I know, famous last words…)
PM sent.
If you make a newer version you could have multiple LDOs with a SPDT DIP switch to toggle between modes, though I might try and modify my current one to do that.
I’d rather avoid giving the option for 5V at all since one could forget it on 5V position while flashing a lower max voltage driver, and with 4.5V now an option for 3.3V would be mostly useless.
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