If you want nearly the same tint with a more concentrated hot spot, you want the Sofirn SC31B.
Those rare few lights I’d actually put on a lanyard, I stick one of those little metal rings through the hole first, then the lanyard through the ring.
Thanks for your suggestions and reviews
I always fear ruining the anodization with these rings. On the other hand I would have to machine the edges to use a lanyard and that removes some anodization as well… Hard decision!
(Now I have to order some more rings.)
Why not? Is it a good emitter for 15mm reflector? Because LC11’s reflector is even smaller than in most 1” flashlights. Even the LH351 would definirely be less floody than it is now. I wouldn’t mind 4000K SST-20 or 40 either, it doesnt matter. I’m not looking for a thrower but just a tad more balance with still pretty wide spill. Throwier 1” lights have pretty deep but still narrow reflectors which limits spill diamater by quite a lot. Making the head just 5mm larger in both directions and using it to put equally bigger, yet still balanced reflector would make a huge difference IMO.
I’d like to see Turbo (1300lm) drop to High (700lm) instead of Mid (300lm). It’s still just warm when it does so I think it’s too early and too much because it can sustain High mode.
Sofirn has too tight spill because its “throwiness” was achieved by making the reflector deeper, not bigger. It also has worse UI and 4000K version has just 700 lumens (1000lm is for the cool white version with rubbish CRI and negative R9 values…).
Making a reflector deeper has minimal effect on candela/throw, it just concentrates the spill like you said (which may be done purposely to offset lower total output, or simply because that sort of beam profile is desired). The SC31B is much more throwy because it uses a significantly smaller emitter. That’s also why it’s limited to 700lm… because that’s basically all you can get out of a high-CRI SST-20 without quickly frying it.
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It actually concecntrates the spot a bit as well, some/many 1” XM-L or XP-L flashlight are getting close to 10kcd mark. Also I’m not suggesting Wurkkos to make FC11 a thrower. I’d like them to utilize the space better. FC11 has a pretty narrow head (cooling fins are wider!) and the reflector inside is even smaller than its competitors like Convoy S2/S2+, Skilhunt M200 etc. (due to thick bezels). Speaking of M200 - it’s the same size, it has the same emitter, is makes less light (1000lm vs. 1300lm), it has wide spill beam but at the same time it has 7kcd instead of 5 kcd. It’s still an EDC, beam is still pretty wide etc.
Also slightly bigger reflector would yield a nicer beam by itself - I like when hotspot is not flat, when it’s slightly more intense in the middle, when it has some corona. Those are nice side effects of larger reflectors. Bigger, not deeper. Make the head as wide as cooling fins or 1-2mm wider, it will still be tiny and perfectly pocketable. Fill it tighter with some bigger reflector but with similar proportions (~4mm deeper and wider), maybe even smooth instead of OP. It should hit 7-8kcd while retaining it’s nice, wide beam profile just in a more mature form. That’s it.
Sounds interesting for sure.
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For future update FC11 kit, will you prefer add one more short tube or a difuser ?
Shorty.
Definitely short tube.
Short tube in the "worm style" look as the 18650 tube. I would suggest selling the diffuser cap as a separately available accessory in Sofirn's shop on AliExpress
And if I may add some more suggestions (even though there are only few left to mention for this almost perfect EDC light)...
- thermal regulation (55°C) instead of timed stepdown
- chamfered edges on the keychain hole (as too many lanyards were torn apart already)
- multiple moonlight modes (hold from OFF to moonlight, keep holding => cycle through moonlight mode 1, moonlight mode 2, moonlight mode 3, ...) between 0.1lm and 2lm brightness
- a high drain 3.000 - 3.500mAh 18650 battery would be the icing on the cake :-D
Short tube.
Yes thermal regulation would be very welcome! I was dissapointed to read the timed stepdown functionality 
And I suppose I’d like a diffuser instead of a short tube…
Timed stepdown doesn’t have to be bad for example when it steps down to high mode after 2-3 minutes. It’s a tiny flashlight, it won’t be able to maintain turbo for more than a few minutes and it will drop to the high mode levels anyway.
My another tip would be a slight UI change. I really don’t like to change modes by pressing and holding the button and waiting for the desired mode. It requires too much concentration, you cannot just program the muscle memory to do two short clicks or something, you need to concentrate, press and keep holding the switch, keep your concentration and wait until the right mode to release the switch. If you release the switch in the wrong moment you have to start again. It’s really annoying. There are two solutions for that:
- Double step switch.
- Single click to turn the light on, single click to cycle through the modes, press and hold to turn it off.
This model used to be press and hold to turn off for for one of the modes and people didn’t like it so they changed it. I would not have bought it if it was still press and hold to turn off. Press and hold for multiple moonlight modes would also mean they’d have to change the press and hold to change modes from step to ramping. So that’s no good. Do not make the UI any more complicated. I think it’s at a level where many people can operate it without problems. A 3400 or 3500 battery would be good but it doesn’t “need” to be a high drain.
I really don’t find hold for off intuitive, that’s why I really like Anduril and IMO it’s good this functionality is also present in the FC11 light.
The UI is simple, easy to understand and use. Adding more features just makes it more complicated. 2C is already used for turbo, that’s great. Hold for off is very bad IMHO.
A lower moonlight would be great, but that is also constrained by the hardware. Changing moonlight brightness by keeping the switch pressed makes it harder to enter moonlight mode without changing something. On the SP33 switching between smooth and stepped ramping is done via 10C IIRC.
Timed stepdown is OK for this light.
Whaf could be improved?
- chamfer the edges on the lanyard hole, it’s too sharp and cuts every lanyard
- optionally chamfer the cooling fins, they are very sharp as well
- constant current driver (linear is fine to keep the costs down)