oh i’m very much team high CRI, and not planning on looking for blood ever
Thank you @Wurkkos ! I will definitely keep that in mind. But having the flashing pads is definitely important. At that 20% will most likely be used and I’ll gift this one to someone.
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I was taught that Blue light was better for this.
[u]This[/u] is an interesting article on the subject.
Yes! At the club dark site that I go to they even get upset if you didn’t have filters on things like license plate lights or backup lights. The answer, if you don’t want to get chastised severely is to get there before dark and not leave until first light. People even demand that red filters be used on laptop screens.
I try to tell them that green is only marginally worse and allows reading star charts much easier, but no one wants to hear it.
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Would be interesting
have power PC deep Red LEDs with the advantage of having a greater bandwidth and same Vf as white LEDs, therefore greater compatibility and flexibility.
So Pc deep red can be also used in dual channel variable tint to bump the others white leds almost at 100 cri? LoL
Astronomers are famous for their lack of understanding of things like optics, spectral response, and low light conditions, right?
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That was common practice with early high CRI fixtures, they used deep red LEDs and cyan LEDs to fill the gaps in the white LED spectrum to increase the CRI. Not as common today that we have ultra high CRI LEDs though.
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And keep the size small as possible for an headlamp, during long session when I start to sweat in front and move the head, lamp drops down cause weight, is annoying.
Sometimes I would have single AAA size.
Most of time I use it for close-up work, don’t need hundreds of lumens, while I would like ultra sublumen and a ramp that rises slowly at the beginning (the opposite happen on HS10…
)
Im not saying that, but not every astronomer have good flashlight.
your engineers are able to insert channels with variable cct for the “white/warm” LEDs plus a third one separate for the red on the HD10 and TS10?
That would be fantastic.
Hope that csp leds <2000k will be produced.
You probably need to know more about the standard practices of astronomy before telling the astronomers that they are doing it wrong.
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Bunch of rando thoughts, vs replying 10 separate times.
I fully support the right to keep and arm bears. Makes it fair…
If I’m not mistaken, VOB, a/k/a Matt “I am not Doctor Who” Smith actually did a video about blood-tracking, using red, blue, UV, high-CRI white, etc., in daylight and at night, fresh blood and “stale”. Forgot the results, though. Wellp, the video’s out there…
I was going to also suggest PC red vs monochromatic red, for more “bandwidth”. Old-timey “red” astronomy lights were just hotwire lights with a red plastic filter anyway, like old-timey car taillights.
Curious if brighter “deep red” would have as much visual punch as dimmer “regular red”. For that matter, get PC red but in “traffic red” (Portland orange)
I remember at one “star party” for a meteor shower (summer, so… Perseids?), there was this much-hated ice-cream truck that had retina-scorching side panels which pretty much blinded everyone, and even though people were yelling at him to gtfo, he stayed there 'til just about midnight.
Don’t most/all LED blubs, even “high-CRI”, still have The Cyan Gap? (And The Blue Peak, too?)
Unno, think that’s it for now… 
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I bet not. It’s hard for them to complete new 
So far, all the people who received their HD10 on Reddit are reporting the old 2022-07-25 Anduril version, rather than the 2023-07-29 version that was promised.
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i think it was told that the older firmware is fixed (no bugs) and it is only 1000 units. the ts10 firmware is 2000 units. i guess they are not in circulation yet. I am however still holding off buying unfixed version.
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Cyan gap? Yes. Blue peak? Well, it’s always higher than Cyan, but once you go below ~4000K, red is the dominant color, at least for high-CRI. And since low-CRI generally put s lumens/watt and raw output as their only real goals, they’re likely 6000K+ anyways.
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That graph was exactly what I meant about The Blue Peak. Ie, unless the phosphor is essentially an opaque mask, some of the original blue shines right through. It’s that “thorn” sticking up from the spectrum “flower”, even from 3000K and up.
Kinda like a peaky resonance of a speaker at one particular frequency.
And The Cyan Gap because phosphors don’t easily reemit photons so close to what they absorb.
My HD10 just arrived with 7-25-2022 as well.
I have tiny adapter PCBs on the way to get a 3pin interface, but mine expect you to route the R cable next to the MCPCB, not next to one of those standoffs 
The way you did it is actually smarter, but I did not think of that.
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I actually thought I got the idea from you, but looking again apparently I didn’t lol, it fits perfectly in the mickey mouse corners even though I used 26awg which is so thick that hits the shelf and the driver sits a little crooked. Hasn’t caused any issues so far, other than the charge port being a little crooked 
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