Got my HD10 in today, love it, glad to see the firmware pads and threaded bezel made it’s way into the design. I’ve ordered a second one and intend to order more in future, as well as recommending it to all enthusiast-curious folks I know (will get a few folks to buy for sure). Such a great feature set for a light, and with a nice headband. I love it.
Also seems like the tube is reversible? Unsure if that’s a change, I didn’t screw it on all the way because I think someone said you could damage something, but it doesn’t look like there’s much to damage… if anyone knows would appreciate a refresher.
Thanks for that. The clip is the closest to the Zebralight H50 type clip that I really like that I have seen. Those Zebra clips don’t seem to be available now.
But the link you provided does not show this clip. They do have a click box for an HD10 clip, but I am not sure it is the right one. Is it?
So I just bought one from Amazon US and it is not updated (I see that Terry confirmed this recently). What are the changes in v2 with the new PCB? Is it only the accessible flashing pads or are there other changes? I can’t find a good summary in this thread. Thanks!
Flashing pads and the bezel is threaded in vs pressed (featureless smooth bezel = pressed, notched bezel = threaded). And I think a newer Anduril version, maybe
Man, I love this light. The anodizing is so nice too. I’ve shown it to tons of friends and work acquaintances (I am “the flashlight guy” to them) - Maybe it’s my enthusiasm selling it but quite a few folks have bought one/said they’d buy one after me running them through it.
Wurkkos nailed it. The only thing I can complain about is the clip, I wish it was captive instead of clipped on, and I wish the last little bit slid onto my pocket a little easier. Otherwise it’s perfect. USB-C is selling many, as expected.
It was funny, I was explaining the USB C drama (fairly, as pros/cons) to a non-enthusiast and he smirks and picks up his cell phone and is like “what do they not have one of these???” Lol, instant validation
No, E21A Vf is too low. At best they would have a very difficult life, and at worst they would burn up. A buck driver or at least a regulated linear driver is necessary to ensure reliable operation of such LEDs. Reducing maximum duty cycle on the stock FET driver works, but it’s not ideal, the LED will be working with reduced efficiency and maybe past its peak output. Also, E21A is way more expensive than the Latticebright CSP they are using. Redesigning the TS10 to have a buck driver would be ideal but inductor height might be an issue, the head would probably need some work to fit the inductor.
Edit: I’m on the HD10 discussion, not on the TS10 discussion
It’s already a problem with the new batch of LEDs used in the copper TS10, duty cycle had to be reduced to 50%, the efficacy must be pretty bad.
Head driver cavity of TS10 is deep enough (~3.5mm), the main issue is the tube is too short, no place for cell side components. Adding 1.5~2mm to the tube should be enough IIRC.
But for HD10 may also be a bit challenging there is enough space for components but it’s more that more signals need to go from contact PCB to main PCB and there are already a lot of bridges.
Yes, with a fully charged cell the LEDs would suffer more but with a 60 to 50% SOC cell the LEDs would be okay. A high discharge battery will also affect this because there would be less voltage sag under load. I believe that a low discharge 14500 battery, combined with thin wires connecting the driver to the MCPCB (24 AWG or less for the TS10, not an option for the HD10) won’t kill the 3xE21A LEDs, but that’s a suboptimal setup.
Wurkkos battery seem doesn’t have high performance (90 mΩ internal resistance measured with Opus).
Guess that the Vdrop and average discharge rate are already a sort of limitator for CSP leds.
Yes, thin wires will add a further brake.
I’ll pay 2-3$ more for have a better tint and wider temperature choice for these small light, current CSP have positive DUV.
Or a single Led option for easier mod
The thing I hate about the HD10 is that it comes so close to being a great light, but has some fatal flaws that mostly revolve around LatticePower’s meddling that turned a great emitter into crap, and a lack of hardware-specific firmware tweaks to keep it from melting the “puppy farts” iteration of the CSP2323.
The CSP2323’s in my V1 TS10’s have held up well over the years, despite my love of Vapcell H10’s, and also have a better tint and R9. But it seems that the emitter changes have had a ripple effect that makes the HD10 suffer on multiple levels.
In addition to e21a, I know of some Samsung emitters that are the correct footprint/ pads. I made an old TS10 post about them… I’d have to search for it. The tint on the ones I tried wasn’t great but they held up to turbo just fine. Minus green works wonders, too.