Sounds like nothing changed - same behavior I had and reported by many others.
Same here on both of my TS21’s.
They told they will fix LED problem with supposed solution from Tom_E but didn’t. Thats is not good at all. Mybe new model with Nichia 219C maybe is fixed but we don’t know so far.
My andruil 2 version does the same thing. The 1 version does not. For me, now that I know what is going on, it is at most a minor annoyance. I really like this light! Yes the switch is dim on low. Hard to see in daylight easy to see in the dark. Still reliably gets bright when the current goes over the 7135 chip. The blue light is kind of flaky mostly because of how it senses a change in voltage. Doesn’t stay on for more than 30 seconds so I just don’t care. As for the charging indicator function I have not tested that. My light reads the voltage consistently and accurately but I have not tested it in simple mode.
So much to like with the quality of the beam, tint, and CRI! Seems very efficient as well. Has a very useful moonlight! It would be nice if it shed heat better but I don’t think that is possible given the optics. As I said the beam is nearly perfect and if it went to a reflector system instead the beam quality would likely suffer greatly, it would be longer and worse for EDC, but it would likely shed the heat better I just think it would be a bad compromise.
The bug fixes aren’t going to be implemented until the revised components are produced, and in turn, those are used to assemble the next batch of lights.
Existing inventory with the bugs won’t be discarded, nor retrofitted, and must be sold through.
Even when the fixed units are produced, depending on how inventory is managed, there will still be risk of receiving old stock, unless a conscious effort is made to isolate the two variants, as well as explicit public identification of which version is being sold and shipped. It’s left to the reader to guess the likelihood of those things occurring, especially the latter, given what has transpired thus far.
Thank you all for the updates and confirming. I ordered this as gift to a friend (should have checked the forum first), so it will be setup to low and will be fine. Since I don’t have any light that has both Anduril and power bank feature, I was hopping to order one for my self as well. Considering everything I will wait this one out, hopefully at some point in the future this will be fixed. Otherwise a very solid light, I can’t expect perfection but compared to IF25A and SC31Pro which were also in a similar price range, I would expect it to be free of such major bugs.
We are talking about half an hour of testing the product by someone who knows what is doing and has a 20$ multimeter as a required equipment.
Well, they will for sure not improve if we don’t call them out on it, so thank you all for doing that.
I think it will be easy way just to send for free to someone here in forum before release of new product and to try to find any bugs. Something like cooperative between Toykeeper and Hank Wang. Also main customers of Anduril based lights are from BLF and reddit community and flashlight fans. Regular user in rare cases will buy some of it.
Have been playing with my TS21 V2 for about a month now. Doing a lot of experimenting to see what drives the blue light. This time of year I can run it pretty hard without getting the light for thermal control. The light coming on due to a voltage change is really quite a depends. Comes on easily with a fresh battery and I’m guessing that is normal as it takes a while to settle in after a charge. Thankfully it never comes on with moonlight!
Here are a couple of observations that much of this forum would have difficulty imagining;-) My light is configured for regulation at 60. Stuck the light, fully charged, to my porch railing last night on Turbo and ran it for 9 minutes. Never did see the blue light. Pretty sure it did cut down the light somewhat but it was still very bright to my eye. Stepped in the house and check the temp ASAP read 51 then dropped into the 40s on next cycle. This AM I ran it for another 6 minutes. Was a bit colder out but less wind. This time the temp made it to 61 for one cycle yet I still didn’t see the blue light. Here is what I find interesting. In total the light was on for 15 min or .25 hr. Put in on the charger and it took 1239 mAh. That’s an average of almost 5 amps over 15 minutes. So just for giggles I tried it again with the light on a coolish windowsill. This time I also ran the test with an SC31Pro. After 15 minutes the TS21 used 423 mAh and the SC31 used 347 mAh. So inside the TS21 averaged about 1.7A and the SC31 a touch under 1.4A. To my eye and feel I thought the SC31 did a much better job of thermal management and holding a more consistent light level. The numbers don’t necessarily go along with that. Perhaps it is that the TS21 uses so much more before the regulation kicks in? Was surprised to see the SC31 actually averaged such a lower draw but I guess that should have been obvious as it does stay cooler.
Yes, this time of year, there are many times where a walk in freezer is warmer than my back yard!
Hello,
I would like to change optics to frosted.
However I cannot find triple 23mm TIR optics on sale.
Does anyone know if it is possible to buy it and whether it is in the frosted version?
Question:-
Regulation of 350mA applies to the single LED and single 7135. I do not quite understand how triple LEDs would be anywhere near the regulation limit if only 350mA is shared between the 3 LEDs
After i took out lens and put it up together at it was, spill become more triangular and appeared strange artifacts. Any ideas why?
I’ve had the blue version of the TS21 for over a week now. I’ve read this entire thread and my light has the same issues as everyone else (my voltage read outs are accurate - one person had an issue with this). One thing I’ve noticed with this light that has not been discussed and I’m wondering why it does it:
On turbo mode the output of this light drops rapidly after a few seconds regardless of the temperature of the light or the battery voltage. The light can be cold and have a freshly charged cell in it and it will still do this. After putting the light in turbo, within 3 seconds I can see a very noticeable drop in output, and I can double click the switch to make the light jump up to the full turbo output again - I’m pretty sure this means the controller knows the light is not at 100% output anymore - it does this on my other Anduril lights too, but they take at least 30 seconds (often minutes) of running on turbo for them to step down due to heat. My WildTrail WT3M is another single 21700 light with Anduril and 3 LEDs - it’s turbo output remains very steady for nearly a minute before stepping down. Why does the TS21 turbo output start stepping down within a few seconds even when heat and battery voltage are not an issue? Note: I have the max temp set to 65* for the TS21.
The super rapid turbo step down is not just me. Reviews from 1lumen have the TS21 starting at 3,316 lumens and stepping down to 942 at 30 seconds. The WT3M stays over 5,000 lumens (nearly full turbo output) for almost a minute - it doesn’t start decreasing in lumens from heat until 50 seconds (the small output drop before 50 seconds is likely from battery voltage sag).
Have you set the temperature after allowing the light to reach room temperature? Also, did you adjust the max temp to a higher number?
The temp settings are correct (confirmed by reading current temp of light and I did set it properly). The TS21 steps down incredibly fast in turbo from every review I’ve seen. The step down does not appear to be temperature related. Does Anduril 2 have a way to have the light step down from turbo automatically within the first few seconds for a reason other than temperature regulation?
The TS21 is a small light for 3000+ lumens so maybe turbo can’t be for too long no matter what. Setting it to 60 degrees may help but will probably feel overly hot. Mine is 55 and drops down pretty fast. Even 120/150 will step down after 5 minutes or so.
Doesn’t head get very warm in few seconds? My blue one does. Now I do not know if the internal temperature is even higher than what I can feel. This happens even if I accidentally hit the turbo for literally a second. Either that means it has great heat conducting path to the head or there is NOT enough mass for the heat to dissipate or the head and body are thermally insulated.
Just based on the time it takes the head too hot to touch, it is as if there is an inferno inside it. For example, take similar sized metallic object and put it in the stove top gas burner for a second. This light gets hot like that.
Most of these new High Lumen lights go into what I call instant ramp down ( sitting in my Light Tube) —- sometimes it’s caused by a cell not being able to sustain the high amp output—- but lots of these newer lights it doesn’t matter what cell you use
I have a Big Gripe with most of the Anduril lights — no matter where you set the top of the ramp — they do this little dance (I call it ) — the light will slowly ramp down to around 250-300 lumens, then slowly work it’s way back to close to the original top of the ramp — I have put this out on numerous threads with not much explanation
I just purchase two Fireflies E03s — same thing — no matter where you set the ramp or temp — these lights do hold Turbo for a while though
FWIW, I would have to disagree about the step down not being related to temperature. Don’t have a light meter however I was playing with my TS21 in the cold and over several experiments managed to average almost 5 amps of draw over a 15 minute period. If the light stepped down in a few seconds that would simply be impossible. Granted my back yard, where I was running the experiments, was colder than a freezer at the time. The light certainly was not down to a couple of hundred lumens and still averaging that much current. Frankly I wonder about some of the graphs as well. How much does the tube impair heat transfer? Also know that temp is driving it because I can see the difference after upping the max temp.
Here is a thought experiment for you: (Assuming you have a charger that measures the amount of charge.) Fully charge a battery, put it in the light and then do a timed turbo for 6 min (1/10 hr). Charge the battery and note how much it took. Now, put the fully charged battery back in the light. Put the light in the freezer for a min or two to get the base temp down but not freeze the battery. Now put the light on turbo and return to freezer for a 6 min run test then charge the battery again. If the step down has nothing to do with temperature then the freezer run should take less charge as the battery would be somewhat affected by the lower temp. If the freezer run took more charge then you know that temperature is driving the step down.
Nice tear down, and I was just scoping this one out as another unneeded purchase! Can you comment on how water resistant that metal switch cover appears to be?
I was told the parasitic drain issue had been resolved, but apparently not, at least in the metal grey 4000K TS21 obtained recently.
With indicator LED in:
- High: 13.67mA
- Low: 0.15mA
- Off: 0.09mA
… with regular spikes of an additional 0.26mA every few seconds.
In comparison, the FC11’s current is 0.04mA (no standby indicator LED).
So, sadly this issue isn’t fixed yet. But it’s still a great light otherwise.