You’re very welcome. Anduril temp configuration in particular that first flash is very difficult at first because it coincides with flashes from button pushes number 4, 5, 6 or so. Also keep in mind ALL flashlights will start stepping down immediately when you start at Turbo and many (except some Convoy’s for example) will start stepping down at less than Turbo also.
The only difference among lights is how fast the step-down (not whether it will happen right away) and it is true the TS21 is among the worst flashlights when it comes to stepping down. Increasing the Tmax of TS21 will slow the stepdown a little, but it will not stop it.
The graph below has runtimes of different flashlights and shows the ubiquitous (thank you spell check lol) stepdowns. TS21 would look like it’s falling down a cliff, the left most light blue one.
Just saw this post on Reddit, which suggests that the lighted tailcap pulls way more current on the 12-group 5A driver compared to the 4-mode 5A driver.
I had 2 lights both running 4-mode 5A driver, one with orange tailcap and the other blue, and the orange looked easily 3x brighter. In the Reddit post it's the other way around, so 9mA would be a reasonable estimate.
Simon's numbers are probably right for the 12-group 5A driver. Makes me very happy that I have the 4-mode version...
Hi QR, you are not talking about S21D right? My S21D w/ 12 group UI still looks very much like only 1mA (ie Simon’s number is 9x too high).
I just finished a second battery voltage-drop test to confirm my current measurement: from 10/2 to 10/22, S21D’s voltage for light w/ blue button went from 4.178 to 4.083 = 0.095v.
That drop amount is appropriately in between a Sofirn IF25a set at bright button light (drop=0.125v) and a second Sofirn IF25a set at dim (drop=0.038v). All 3 lights were tested with Samsung 40T battery fully charged. Funny thing is I’ve removed all button light from my Convoy metal button anyway because I have too many lights and don’t want to worry about any drop.
The lights in the reddit post are C8's, not S21D. They definitely use different drivers, since the driver diameters are different.
Based on the end voltage of 4.083, some rough estimates off the 40T discharge curve suggests that your S21D blue switch draws substantially lower than 1mA on average during this run, maybe closer to 0.5mA. But I cannot be sure, since the discharge curve starts at a lower voltage than your 4.178.
The important data points are the beginning and end voltages, not the difference between the two--the same voltage drop can correspond to completely different capacity loss depending on where you are on the discharge curve.
Great info and explanation - thank you. And you are right - IIRC 1 mA was the highest that I measured in S21D and that was with a full battery. Slightly less full but still above 4v, I was getting ~0.7 mA.
So do I understand correctly that the spec Simon listed (eg 9.4 mA) is a result of testing the lighted button by itself (isolated from flashlight’s driver), but once you install the button in a flashlight, the current drain will be different (and possibly much lower) depending on which driver that particular flashlight uses? TIA
It seems this light with Nichia 219c might (emphasize “might”) be discontinued because there are not enough buyers. I looked and seems like it’s not available anywhere?
If you’re into Nichia lights I would recommend to grab one if you see it. Wurkkos has a very nice batch of 219c here IMHO. Collectors’ item .
I like to use it as a reference for what a 5000k daylight neutral tint LED looks like. For a:b comparison to other LEDS.
Hello is friends.
I bought the lantern of wurkkos ts21 sst20. 5000K
Tests with a chamber and Balance white on 4500К.
Straight lights bruteforce. Modes 4/7 and 7/7
The light is directed towards the white ceiling. Modes 4/7 and 7/7
I want to replace the LEDs that you recommend 219C sm503 5000K.
I will buy on Aliexpress, I did not find it with a temperature of 5000K.
Can you tell me where to buy them
Hi, sorry I don’t know the answer. I would recommend to post your question here on THIS THREAD. Just curious about reason why you’re switching? Is the SST20 5000k too green or has something you don’t like? You could fix the green like this: DC-Fix Diffusion Film Sale - #491 by cannga
I am also 100% “non technical” but purely based on my use of the Sofirn IF25a with quad SST20 4000k versus this Wurkkos TS21 with triple 219c 5000k, I suspect (not sure) that you are going to lose sustained brightness when you switch from SST20 to 219c. Wurkkos TS21 with 219c has wonderful color rendering but stepdowns extremely quickly from heat generated. More severe and faster stepdowns than most of my other lights.
Anyone please correct me as needed. I will check Turbo “rundown” of my IF25a later; just realized I’ve never tested it.
Found this great graph by Maukka (EDIT: Data on LH351D and SST20 by Maukka, graph actually compiled by thefreeman.). Does this mean the 4000k versions of 219c and SST20 have similar efficiency, and similar heat generated?
Sort of…
At a given current, say 4 amps, the 219c and SST-20 will be very close in output.
But, the SST-20 has a higher Vf, so would be slightly less efficient.
The big difference is that the lower Vf of the 219c will draw more current in a FET based light, like the IF25a and the TS21.
This higher current will give you a higher Max Turbo output… for a little while. The addition heat from the higher current will also cause the light to heat up and step down sooner.
In the example at 4A, the Vf of the SSWT-20 is about 3.4v. The 219c is about 3.2v and doesn’t reach 3.4 until >7A. The 219c won’t draw that much more current because of other limitations in the flashlight (battery, contacts, driver, wires, etc). Let’s say it draws 6A with a good high current battery. So the 219c will be brighter, but at the cost of 50% more current… gets too hot quicker!
My numbers are approximate, but I hope they help get to the point.
There was a discussion just recently about improving the “green” of the SST-20. I suggested “shaving” or “slicing” the dome of the SST-20 to reduce duv. Another suggestion was to use some Lee minus green filter. Both of these methods can help. But, it really depends on the bin of the LED you are starting with and what your preferences are.
My experience… not all 219c are good, and not all SST-20s are bad. There are good and bad bins of both.
I bought two IF25a’s when I was new to this hobby. One was overwhelmingly green and the other one greener than that . Sofirn also has THE worst green LH351D in the D25L headlamp. Recently I tried some Zircon from Boaz and very happy with the result. Save these lights from being abandoned.
Just to add highlight;
The comparison graph is arranged by Freeman,
Anyway thanks for your works Cannga, despite all of those hi cri beauties you have summarized, at the same time you’ve triggered my urge to get that lo-cri ts30s lightsaber
And i’m looking forward for your review on Cree’s xhp50.3 /xhp70.3 HI,HD highCRI should you get any of them, Simon seems to have some on his store.
Thank you Cannga
Thank you. I have yet to see a non-greenish beamshot of Cree 70.x from good reviewers (anyone if you see one please post), and not one from Simon, so I’m not ready to pull trigger on Cree 70.x yet.
Until then I’m currently exploring Chinese LED’s. Could also be greenish, but ridiculous output and low cost = the best cheap thrill! .
I think it would take special talent to create green tint at 3000k since the beam color is so yellow at this CCT, no? Or is there such a beast, a 3000k LED with green tint?!
I do want to try Cree 70.x and would love to be proven wrong. If anyone has seen good beamshot of 4000-5500k Cree that doesn’t look green, please post pic or link. I would likely pull the trigger.
This sounds like “the Cree challenge,” doesn’t it?
Looks like the Cree challenge has been answered . Pic below from Piercing The Darkness’s excellent review and comparison - thank you.
Sofirn’s beam has surprisingly good tint except corona, while Convoy’s XHP70.3 looks a sea of greenish yellow to my eyes. Partly from lower CCT perhaps but check the Duv value, minus 52 for Sofirn! That’s actually very good.
I’ll wait for some more reviews but this Sofirn might be a good light for tint snobs wanting to try Cree 70.3. Maybe the next sale I’ll pull the trigger.
/Samsung%20INR21700-40T%204000mAh%20(Cyan)-Capacity.png)
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. Sofirn also has THE worst green LH351D in the D25L headlamp. Recently I tried some Zircon from Boaz and very happy with the result. Save these lights from being abandoned.
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