Wurkkos TS21 with Nichia 219c 5000k - perfect "daylight neutral tint"? Impression & comparison w/ other high CRI LED's

You’re welcome - I think you’ll love it. Note it’s NOT the magenta tint of 219b that I like (I don’t think that magenta tint is “beautiful” per se and actually prefer a more golden/yellow tone.), but it’s the way 219b uniquely make distinct and highlight different shades and colors of sceneries (plants, flowers, little rabbits, etc.) along my evening walk that is UN-MATCHED by any other LED. The night scenery is colorful and beautiful with 219b.

This versus my two 6000k lights, Nitecore MH12S and Sofirn IF22a, both great lights with incredible throw and brightness for security function, but erase all colors from my walk :slight_smile: . That harsh blue light is a color killer, depth too.

Good to know. I do tend to prefer a little warmer light for night walks where there’s a lot of greenery and nature around. It just looks so much more vibrant especially with high CRI.

5000k and higher tends to look “washed out” in way.

I’ve been using my TS21 SST40 @ 4000k but I find it a little too much on the yellowish side. I prefer a very slightly rosey warm myself.

Regardless, I think that 219b $ 4500k will be a perfect fit. I’m definitely going to look for one of these now.

For me they are all good.
I like popping colors and the orange, purple, light yellow or grey vanish in real life use. And your eyes do whitebalance within minutes. The reason why you have whitebalance in your camara is your brain and eyes do it.
The brain uses the last 15 minutes to adjust color.

So the colors seen on a white wall beamshoot of one single light fades away in less then 10 minutes.
I think in discussions it is often forgotten that over time the tint and cct is less noticable for the eye.

There ist another thing your vision system can adjust to it:
Stare at this video for a minute and than look at your back of your hand.

Interesting and good discussion :+1: , and I agreed with you, but not 100%. What if you only use light on/off for short durations, say less than the 10 minutes per your suggestion, then beam colors matter a lot no?

In addition, I very easily could tell what light it is I am using even after 10 minutes in the case of for example 219b 2700k. Not just me but IMHO anyone would be able to tell its unique blood orange color. What you suggested, “less noticeable over time” sounds right, but to what “degree” is the interesting, and un-answered, question.

I do think photography exaggerates differences between LED’s vs real life view. And that’s why it’s helpful, perhaps exactly because of what you are discussing, “color memory.” Photography “freezes” the difference side by side, so you don’t have to depend on visual memory. Thanks for the cool video - seems like visual hallucination without “pharmaceutical” aid lol.

Because of this little thread, I ended up ordering a TS21 Nichia 5000k (over a IF25A). You guys are such an influence lol

It’ll eventually be my first 21700 light and in Anduril 2 as well!

Have fun with the light and glad I could help. This Nichia 219c 5000k is a wonderful LED without any nasty green tint. Please note because Wurkkos TS21 has such a small body (small thermal mass) it heats up quickly and becomes dim very quickly in stock form. Therefore it’s great that it has a UI that gives owners the option to a. set correct current temp and b. raise the maximal thermal limit. Please keep in mind the light will become hotter if you raise the thermal limit so take appropriate precaution so it’s not turned on accidentally while in a bag etc. and causes burn/fire.

Once you’re in thermal configuration mode as outlined below, first flash is for setting Current Temp (same as room temp, for example typically 21 C inside my house in LA), and second flash is for setting Temperature Limit, where you would click for example 25 times if you want to set 55 Degrees max (stock is 45 Degrees). For me, the determination of which is the FIRST flash and which is the SECOND flash was the most difficult part when I was new, but became much easier with practice. It did help to dim the flashlight before going into setting so the flashes are easier to look at and temperature doesn’t rise so much during calibration.

If you are new to flashlights (pardon me if you’re not), you might want to check out the magic of Convoy lights with Nichia 219b 4500k (for the best beam color on the internet lol), and Getian GT-FC40 4500k (for being the only thrower with “world class” CRI & beam color currently available on the market). They are my most favorites among all the lighs I have. Hope this helps and makes the hobby more fun for you. :+1: :slight_smile:

EDIT: I had first used a diagram from ivanthinking but then noticed it has an error so it’s been replaced with the one from Lux-Perpetua.

Here’s a good Anduril 2 diagram.
I got it from here Anduril 2 UI diagrams (generic, Lumintop, Sofirn). Thank you @Lux-Perpetua :+1: .

I haven’t tried thermal calibration yet. I agree that finding the ‘second flash’ is something I worry about. I thought I’d enter the wonderful world of thermal calibration (with the SC31 Pro) but it turns out that it was reading 5 celsius below room temp, so I’m good with that. I don’t have an IR thermometer so if it’s too hot to touch then yeah, step down by all means.

Yep, I have the Anduril diagram pic in my phone!

Thermal calibration is key with mass-produced Anduril lights and especially with a very small light like the Wurkkos TS21. TS21 gets hot so fast (its main weakness) that it dims extremely quickly, quickest of all the lights I have, and therefore for me nearly useless unless temp config is set up properly.

Re. the second flash for setting Stepdown Temp Limit, there is actually a way to check if you have made a mistake, and explaining this might be extremely confusing :slight_smile: , but I’ll give it a try.

ASSUMING the only mistake you could have made is entering that 25 clicks (30+25 clicks=55°) after the first flash, instead of the second flash, then what you have done is instead of setting “Stepdown Temp Limit” at 55° C, you’ve set the “Current Temperature” at 25°. To see if you’ve made this error, after you’ve finished, let go of finger and immediately read “Current Temperature”. If it reads 25, likely you’ve made an error. Btw I won’t be surprised if told I’ve lost everyone here. :confounded:

BTW I have the TS21 for a while now and would still confirm that this is for me the most “daylight-truthful” LED in my collection of Nichia LED’s. If I ignore all my OCD debates/rationalizations about which LED is the most beautiful, or most eye-popping, or most CRI accurate, etc. and just ask the simple question, which LED most accurately depicts how the room looks during daylight, it’s this batch of Nichia 219c 5000k from Wurkkos.

My subjective opinion hopefully is clearly illustrated by comparative pictures of my living room vs a couple other famous LED’s on page 1. Essentially, if you are into collecting Nichia LED’s, this light with its “cool”/daylight beam color (vs warm) is also a must-have IMHO.


I find the TS21 to be nearly useless even when temp config has been done.

You can either make it 1) bright enough to be very useful and too hot to touch, or 2) cool enough to touch, but the brightness isn’t going to be enough for some situations.

IMO, you’re better off getting something like the S21D (another 21700 light) and running it at 35%, which is significantly brighter than the ‘cool enough to touch’ output of the TS21.

I would say that you could get the TS21 for reading books or something else that doesn’t require much light, but it begs the question ‘why would I get it at all, when there are other lights available that can do those things and more?’

For me, only because of the Nichia 219c 5000K, an excellent LED which AFAIK no one else is offering at this time.

There is a version of TS21 with Luminus SST20 LED, and I agreed with you there. No reason to buy that one. Sofirn IF25a has 4 of the same LED (instead of 3 in Wurkkos), better throw and brightness, doesn’t have the crazy button light, and doesn’t step-down as much. For me in every way a “better” light.

My other small lights (Emisar D4V2, Sofirn IF25a) have quad LED, TS21 is of similar size but fits only 3. That hurts its max brightness. Even with one less LED, something with the design causes stepdowns to occur SO quickly in comparison.

Having lots of fun with my newly acquired Opple Light Master Pro. Here are the measurements.

Note how closely this LED hugs the BBL line. And the great CRI value.
CCT 4949
Ra 95.6
Duv –0.0008 (x 0.3465, y 0.3511)

Aside from the box label, is there a way to know if it’s an SST20 or 219c flashlight on hand? I mean how would a newbie know if it’s the ordered 219c and not a SST20 ‘accidentally’ sent over?

You may be able to see the bond wires through the TIR for the SST20 version, but not for the 219C.

From my own experience Wurkkos is a legit and good company. To prevent mistake, just make sure you order from their web site or their official store on Aliexpress.

I think I saw it in a Lumintop light earlier…let me see if I can find it.

Yes…the FWAA has it: FWAA at Killzone

Im a bit confused why everyone keeps suggesting this.

I just use mine as it was shipped and have no issues with it getting too hot or dimming.

Maybe I just dont use it bright enough or long enough for this to be an issue for me?

1. Yes that’s it. If you use this light at less than max level, or use it on/off short periods around the house, the TS21 is fine IMHO.

2. If you use the light for example for safety during an evening walk, where high output continuously is desired, then there are better choices. Its fast step-downs actually bothers me A LOT less than I seem to have written about. Personally I still love the light (it’s pretty, I need to collect this LED, and I use it around the house only), but as this thread is sort of an “impression/mini review” thread, I just feel the need to let people know what I found compared to other lights.

3. Having said that, I think it’s still desirable for hobbyists, with or without OCD lol, to have correct/appropriate temperature setting. And the stock setting is too low, for example versus the standard-setting Convoy lights. My beloved Convoy lights :slight_smile: seem to have the highest external temperature measured with my IR gun, around 60° C, versus 55° or below for most other lights. The TS21 stock setting of internal temp at 45° is way too low for its own good.

(Sorry for all the edits)

Thank you very much for your reply cannga

I generally use all my lights at medium to low levels. Or sometimes somewhere near, but not at the top of their brightness levels.

Turbo only ever gets used for less than 10 seconds at a time on any of my lights.