Just received my Wurkkos TS22 last week, expecting to use it as my bar mounted floodlight for nighttime MTB rides. The output and beam pattern are nice but I’m finding it’s cutting out with very minor jolts.
In my geography (BC, Canada), the trails are rough and jumps/drops are pretty much unavoidable. This makes the light basically unusable, cutting out at the worst possible times where visibility is most important.
Any solutions that the community can recommend for this? I am upgrading from a Sofirn SP32A which never had this issue but also has dual springs whereas the wurkkos only has 1 spring at the tailcap. Is there anyway I can retrofit a spring at the head? Or maybe a stronger tailcap spring?
I’ve messaged the Wurkkos Aliexpress store as well to see if they have any solutions.
Welcome to BLF @CaMKii .
I have soem Convoy lights with the solid post for a positive contact. They would disconnect if just placed on their tail so hard.
I got some of these…the V3
Not sure if he still sells them. PM @BlueSwordM and ask. They are great springs!
I just threaded (I got both small and large, you would have to try for fit) Into the tail cap spring and soldered the base.
It got rid of 90% of the problem. You need to be careful, because if you use too much pressure you can mess up the driver or crush your cells.
Maybe someone else has something better for you…but this is what I did.
No question, the right tool for the job at hand…
But I think he was hoping to make what he has better… I can’t say that I have seen it done, but how hard would it be to replace that solid post with a good spring? Or maybe the whole driver with one that already has a spring…?
It looks like the driver post on the Wurkkos TS22 is very small. Not sure if there would be a spring small enough to be able to solder to it.
Have you tried to put some O-rings around the battery to make it more secure in the body? Maybe that would help to prevent it from moving around so much.
And you could try to stretch out the tail spring so it holds the battery more securely.
The single spring model has a rubber ring around the tailspring. It limits how far the spring can compress. The battery is pushed firmly against the head by the rubber bumper, when the tailcap is tightened.
For the TS22, a rubber ring for the tail could be cut from a piece of clear vinyl tubing:
I’ve had lights in the past with “lazy springs” or where the cell is slightly too short to compress the spring strongly.
I don’t know what the positive contact in the head of your light looks like, but if you think you can solve the problem with a slightly longer cell or a spacer, Simon (Convoy Store) sells small PCBs with brass buttons intended for use between flattop cells in series. One of these between the driver and the cell might compress the spring enough to maintain contact when riding over bumps.
Product is called:
“21mm PCB board for series connection, connect two flat head cells in series. Increase the length to fill the gap”.
I’d have thought this safer than magnets as the diameter of the PCB prevents the conductor from reaching the negative cell casing if the wrapper is damaged, but you’ll have to take a look and work out if it would work safely for your light.
Thanks for posting this question. I have had the same thing happen just recently with a sofirn C8L. It was hand held while riding an electronic unicycle at night. I can’t imagine it was much force - but I’ll look into it. It never would have occurred to me that it was the battery losing connection.
bugger, unlikely to be the same problem with the sofirn C8L - it has springs boths ends. I’m impressed with that. Also, I can’t reproduce the fault by shaking the light, so I don’t believe it’s related to the battery connection, or carrying it by hand while riding the euc
Try rapping the tail with good force against something hard with the light on. This is when I noticed some of my lights with the post on the driver cutting out. If the battery contact is the issue, you will see it then.
yeah, thanks. It could be temp related of course. I generally run at a level where the light doesn’t get warm (to my touch). Never high; whatever is a sustainable level. Still, it must be warming up a bit inside.
Unless it’s badly configured, that doesn’t sound like thermal stpedown.
As recomended, while it’s switched on, bang tailcap of the light on something and see if it changes mode/switches off. You’re trying to get the cell inside to move, so slapping it into your palm or a mouse pad would be good. I’d try separate attempts to get the cell to move towards the tailcap or the head, then you’d know which spring is the problem
no, it actually goes off, no light at all. I can switch it back on. It is a fault of some sort. If it is warmth related that would make sense - it’s only happened when the light has been running on med for a while.
Thanks all for the helpful suggestions. I’ve tried two things, neither fully solve the problem.
Using a rubber o-ring at the tail to take up space between the battery (-) terminal and the tailcap.
Using washers to lengthen the effective length of the battery and in effect preload the tailcap spring
Both of these seem to reduce the problem and make it slightly more resistant to cutting out but the problem is still very much present. The AliExpress storefront’s customer service were no help and said that this problem is “unavoidable”.
Poohduck, your problem sounds different from mine though. The TS22 cuts out but does come back on after a second or so.
This is the solution right here. Some lights that don’t have springs at both ends of the tube (Acebeam is hit and miss with its extra long batteries) need you to stick in 1 or 2 of these, and then they work no matter how much you shake them around.
