Actually, I don’t really care about 17k lumen output, I’m interested to see the different curves, sustained or not for the first 30 mins. The gen 1 TS30S is a good example. Based on zeroair tests, I consider this light beying able to sustain at least 1700 lumens during the first 30 mins. I thinks it’s good.
If the Nightwatch Super Valkyrie is pushing 17k for 15 secs, great. But if it goes down to only 400 lumens for the next 29 mins or so, then it’s a deal breaker for me.
The following is from the manual if any expert here could make sense out of it. What is “charge pump boost scheme”? My guess is that high-power charging mechanism is the reason for the parasitic drain?
“The charge pump boost scheme is used in the flashlight part. So there is a static current of about 1.5 ma flashlight for a long time or after using the battery, please be sure to loosen the tail cover!”
BTW I measured 1.98 mA for my Super V’s parasitic drain.
I should clarify that there is LVP in the Super V. At 3 volts the indicator light turns red and output goes down, at around 2.85 volts it started flashing red. Then apparently shuts down but I didn’t test this. But… the important point is even with LVP activated, there is still this parasitic drain.
At least, although 2 mA is not that desirable, it’s not a disaster and much lower than the drain in big brother Nightwatch Chaos.
For those new to this hobby, for reference my Emisar D4V2’s drain of aux lights + button on bright mode is ~1.5 mA, and Convoy blue metal button in S21D is ~ 1 mA or less.
Outputs with different batteries, measured with Texas Ace lumen tube. Battery was charged to full before test. I ran test several times to observe trend and range. Highest output for each battery is shown. The results reflect the range very well. For example, Molicel’s output is very high, but never crossed 13000 mark.
Nealsgadgets Lishen 2170HP 13090 lm
Molicel P45B Grade A 12710 lm
Samsung 30T 12320 lm
Gold Queen Battery 26800 11610 lm
Samsung 40T 10790
Nothing surprising, the Nealsgadgets Lishen 2170HP takes top place again and produces the world record 
for single LED consumer light at 13000 lm. This Lishen is my third one from Nealsgadgets. Of the 3 Lishen, there is one that gives higher output than the other 2 when tested with another light, the Mateminco PD30s, but unfortunately it is too long from the button top and I can’t use it with the Super V. It starts making that crunchy noise like the top would cave in when I tried.
ConsOOOMer lights.
All the wonderful batteries. Note slightly different codes between the two Nealsgadgets Lishen 2170HP: button-top is O3BCEA2, and flat-top is O3BCEA3. I’m testing the flat top one for capacity. (EDIT: 3000 mAh for the flat top CEA3, 2800 mAh for the CEA2.) Molicel P45B seen here is grade A battery bought from liionwholesale.
Lishen has a little bit higher output, but P45B is my overall favorite because it has higher capacity than Lishen. And buying that Lishen from China or from Neal could be an adventure in and of itself 
. Molicel would be my choice of battery for both Wurkkos TS30S and Nightwatch Super Valkyrie, or any light with hungry LED for that matter.
Particular for the Wurkkos TS30S, Molicel P45B would give a significant increase in both output and throw over the stock Wurkkos battery.
I finally got around to doing Turbo runtime for the Super Valkyrie using the Queen Battery, and noticed something that’s interesting. Light started at @ 11000 lm as expected and held fairly well all things considered. But at 1 minute the output dropped rapidly to ~950 lm, nearly identical to another light that I have, the Mateminco PD90S.
Below is the runtime graph of Mateminco PD90S, note that dive at 1 minute then rapid recovery. Super Valkyrie does a similar dive, with equally rapid recovery (seconds). At any rate, I prefer to do runtime without active cooling, but make an exception for high power lights because of the excessive heat in a closed room. (I can’t take a chance damaging them.) With a fan blowing on the light, output at 30 minute is ~ 4000 lm.
This is the highest that I’ve seen for any of my lights, including those monster lights. I’m also happy to see it didn’t die at 15 seconds as apparently reported with another light (?). The Valkyrie stayed at 9000 plus lm until 1 minute before dropping off, then recovered rapidly. I will post amateur-class runtime graph later.
Up until now, the most powerful single-LED light in my collection has been the Mateminco PD90S, sporting 7400 lm and 759 m throw. The SFH55 LED is responsible for these fairly outrageous numbers.
Last night for the first time I did head to head comparison, and found my beloved PD90S obliterated by this Nightwatch Super Valkyrie. And “obliterate” is not too strong a word, but please note… alas only in Turbo mode. It’s really not a fair comparison, 13,000 lm vs 7400 lm, but one that has to be done since the cost of the 2 are close, both in 60 buck range (so cheap for the lumens lol!). The 2 beams are also very similar, more floody than throwy despite of the impressive throw numbers. But once Turbo is hit, it’s all over for my poor PD90S because of the incredible output of the Valkyrie.
To make explicit what has been implicit so far, I haven’t found any flaw that would prevent me from giving this Nightwatch my highest recommendation. It is exactly as @Sirstinky has described, completely bonkers 
. Easily among the very top and most fun lights in my small budget light collection.
Curious about the unusual hefty/robust feel to this light, I compared weights without battery of the lights in picture above:
Convoy S21D: 114 gm
Wurkkos TS30S 1st Gen: 245 gm
NW Super Valkyrie: 306 gm, 337 gm with battery adapter, 422 gm with QB 26800 battery
Mateminco PD90S: 327 gm, 396 gm with 21700 battery
So this baby’s weight is not horrible, but it’s not a lightweight either. There is no question about the subjective feel of holding something extremely robust in my hand. I think it has to do with its being a compact but heavy light with very thick wall. Great thermal mass for heat dissipation.
I am updating this “Nightwatch’s Super Valkyrie Quirk and Special Features Post” 
for potential owners, and this is the latest note: My light’s button needed to be twisted in tight. I used one of those ring pliers so as not to scratch it - “IRWIN VISE-GRIP Convertible Snap Ring Pliers.” Speaking of button, the double click has to be very quick, almost too quick. I got better after numerous output measurements so double click now is easier for me. Tripple click is still hard.
I got my Super Valkyrie today…
The light seems to work fine. It is the middle of the day here, but it seems very bright. Waiting for the dark now… 
One thing… or maybe two. I can’t get it to charge a cell in the light. I have tried 5 different chargers from 100 watts, two 60 watt, and a couple of 18 watt chargers. I have tried 4 different cables. 3 USB C to USB C (100 watt rated cables including the cable that came with the light) and one USB A to C.
I also tried a few cells. A couple of 21700 cells and a QB 26800. Only problem is that they were all recently charged.
Could there be a limit on the charge level being low enough to start charging? BUT, I also tried the power bank function and that does not seem to work either.
Any similar experiences? Ideas that I haven’t tried to troubleshoot the problem?
BTW, I did cross-post from a Super Valkyrie review thread… thinking it might get some more views here. Sorry if I broke protocols…
Yes, I read the above when you posted it. THX. I have tried button presses until my thumb is worn out.
I actually blinded myself for a couple of minutes when I got turbo while trying to start charging… with the damn thing pointed at my face…
Anyway, I can never get the switch lights to do anything when trying to start charging (it does come on blue when the light is on). A USB power meter in line shows it never draws much current at all when connected to a 100 watt PD charger (just the constant milliamp drain that we have talked about here).
Oh, and the light does not work at all with no battery. Has anyone tested this?
No power bank function either. My phone detects that the cable is connected, but never gets any charge.
BTW, three of the 4 charger wall warts that I tried are PD rated. Two for 60 watts and one ( Solar generator at 100 watts)
I wonder if it is just that picky about power supplies. But I don’t have any others to try.
I am afraid the BMS chip is just hosed.
I think my charger is Quick Charge, not PD. Maybe that makes a difference? Plug in, wait 5 seconds, then push.
OK. Well I have a device… USB power meter, that can force PD triggering. I plugged that in and checked. The power supply can do QC 2 and 3 and PD 3. I told it to force PD 3. Now I can get the light to charge, but only on one level…
The MAX with RED lights flashing. So it is charging at about 12 watts with the 15 volt 3 amp selection. It will not charge with the 5 volt 3 amp setting. But, as mentioned, I cannot change charging levels by clicking the switch.
I did run a 26800 down to 3.85 volts and tried charging… direct from the power supply. NADA, nothing!
I am pretty sure that the BMS chip is just hosed. Not sure if it is even worth trying to contact Neal about it.
I found an old Anker QC 2 charger. Using a USB A to USB C cable. It will charge, but I can’t change charging levels.
So that is good (and bad). At least I will not have to drag out another device and cable to charge it.
But it is supposed to be able to use PD at 45 watts… Far more than the 18 watts available with QC 2.
But then we are supposed to be able to select charge rates too. (luck of the draw? … I can’t)
Anyone try the power bank function with the Super Valkyrie? Is it even supposed to be able to do that? Nothing in the manual about it. So probably not. Such a shame with something having the capacity of the 26800 to draw from.
See reply in other thread. I see all 3 levels with my QC3 charger. I haven’t checked carefully but I think all 3 top out around 18-20 watts. Maybe 22 watts for the highest level, but not sure. Charging slows down when battery is fuller. I will look more carefully next time when battery is really empty.
It’s fun to note Hoop’s testing of output using SFN55.2 are so similar to mine using a different LED SFP55.2L , in the Super Valkyrie. The percentage reductions between QB26800 and Samsung 30T and Molicel P45B are nearly identical.
Nealsgadgets Lishen 2170HP 13090 lm
Molicel P45B Grade A 12710 lm
Samsung 30T 12320 lm 97% of Molicel P45B
Gold Queen Battery 26800 11610 lm 91% of Molicel P45B
Samsung 40T 10790
Power bank is axed from the Super, Sadly. probably necessary due to size, hardware limits.
I fured that our after tracking donw a few reviews. A shame. This light with 26800 cells is a great candidate for the power bank function.
BTW, on last comment on the charging problem I have. I got a 100 watt rated USB C cable (I needed it to get 100 watts out of one of my solar generator thingies). I found I could charge the Super Valkyrie with it. I had not gotten any USB C to USB C cables (including the cable that came with the light) to work with it until this one. I can still only charge at the lowest level (meter says 19 watts). But that is fine with me as it is safer for the cells IMHO. I just find it peculiar.
Highest I got was 37 watts, 20v 1.81A off a 45W adapter. I doubt anyone could get more. There’s too many bottlenecks in the current path it seems (power meter, cable, battery, losses in the buck/boost converter). Even my high end lights with 45W charging never see that number.
