So if I completely peel off all the gel, the LED won’t burn up?
My uneducated guess says it probably wont burn up 
. I don’t know really, maybe someone with more experience in this can chime in.
Tried both a XR-C and a XR-E zoomie, dome comes of very easy with just a plier and no sign of any remaing gel.
Smaller and i think a bit brighter hot spot and they are not burning up 
I mean’t against … stupid typo
scaru,
I never saw that poll before… interesting
I hang out here because BLF rocks.
But every now and then, one bad apple tries to spoil the bunch.
BLF could really use a Mark as TROLL button.
What an awesome idea thanks Hal .I can’t believe I had to read 3 pages of BS to get one page of very good info.
Maybe we should bring the vote up again. Should user "agenthex" be banned? (Please only vote if you have an informed opinion)
I have to say Jaffo you got some awesome results on that drop in. My only concern is will it affect the life of the LED, even if it does it seams worth the risk.
I wish i didn’t just put a new U2 in my HD-2010 because I would cut that one down in a heartbeat. I really want to see a beam shot of an XRE with and without domeage. I am wondering if I could eliminate the lens on my weapon light and get the same result by simply dedomeing the emitter.
Would the result of de-doming reduce heat by some small margin? If heat from the top part of the LED is blocked somewhat by the dome, removing the dome would eliviate or at least help some of the heat generated by the LED to travel straight out hitting the glass lens.
I dedomed my HD2010 last night. The residue silicon is less than 0.5mm. Since I didn’t have a razor blade, I actually used a 3-blade razor.
The surface is no very flat with lines on top. But the result is rather satisfying. the hotspot is much smaller and noticeably more intense. I will try it in backyard tonight. I have only one HD2010, so there will be no comparison.
In all postings, I noticed someone utilized the retaining ring (the black or white little piece to auto-center the reflector). I used that too. It is barely higher than the die surface and did not allow me to cut deeper.
Overall it went pretty well. I will sand the silicon down and polish. Hopefully to get a even surface.
And comparison to the same light before de-doming (with same settings, but not exactly the same camera position, sorry!) Mouse over for de-domed.
I don't get it!
I've tried lots of polishing with the felt pad dremel thingy but I don't get it to go really clear. What am I doing wrong???
Also I drilled out the whole flat center part of my X7 reflector and now it does 120 kCd ! NICE 
But I think a better polishing is in order but I have only about 0,4-0,5mm dome left!
Does anybody know how thick the xml dome really is from top down to phosphor layer/bonding wires??
And before I forget - thanks to OP for the method! It rocks!
Thats one AWESOME mouseover _the_
What a spectacular difference. You _the_ man with the right mod so far!
I also love having a more neutral/warmish thrower - what is your thoughts so far???
I’ll take the original FandyFire STL-V6 beam anyday. So much more useful spill.
I have to side with ILF here, while the added throw is nice I much prefer having that spill.
Nice beamshots the :bigsmile:
It says all your de-dome lights are belong to us.
That reminded me of something
Trouble is when you squeeze and pick a zit they stick arround for longer. If you just ignore them they go away quicker….
Hard to resist though…
Woody
How about just not reading what someone writes?
Ahhh, Ok this is starting to annoy me to: is it possible for Mr Admin to move this discussion to another thread… it is really cluttering up this thread and makes it hard to read about only de-doming if you have to wade through pages of off topic argument (its not that far off topic but its still off topic).
Back on topic: I have ground the dome of the U2 I was playing with earlier all the way past the gold contacts. The result: LED no work.
As I measure it the dome is still sticking up 0.2 mm past the rest of the die: this is not enough, I think minimum thickness is around 0.3mm before you get to the gold wires.
Thanks for the destructive test MM. I don’t have a good way to accurately measure what’s left of my dome (dial caliper but hard to get a good measure) .014 inch .355mm was what I have left.
I don’t think it’s so important to get so close to the die. The dome lens is long gone, so more important to get an optical smooth surface. I did not have much luck with the polish rouge (used a polish paste and wheel on the dremel) seems the 1500 wet paper did better.