Thanks Viffer750, I will try that way heating from all sides, and then pushing from the oppisite side of the wires.
By the way, did you try with any aspherical lens about the result?
a comparison, dedomed UF D1 at 3.5A against overdrived Marsfire W-068 at 3.8A
110k lux vs 57k lux
not yet, but I will do a comparison
The addiction began before he knew it
he had to de-dome one or two it
lights he used to forsake
He now loved to bake
he knew it ,yet blew it, ..ahhhh.... screw it
so, almost double the lux, I tried with a dx 50mm lens
With an original xm-l I got around 50-60k lux, with the dedomed above 100k lux but with a smaller projected spot. The spot size is almost like an xp-g.
You guys are killing me I really want to try but I know I will ruin it.
If you try to de-dome an emitter
The experience just might leave you bitter
When you do it wrong
And the fail is too strong
You might turn a good light into litter
I wanted to let you guys know on certain XM-L’s no matter how good of job you do they will have a bluish/purplish tint to them. I just got done doing one of my CITIPOWER X7’s and I did a perfect job and that’s what I ended up with. It would have been better left alone.
Nice! You’ve introduced a new de-doming method to the thread! It’s the first I’ve heard of it at least. Applying heat directly to the dome sounds like a great idea since you don’t have to worry about overheating the die (with silicon having such bad thermal conductivity). This way you can just run your iron at full tilt while touching the dome till its soft enough to push off. We just need more testing with this method to check its success rate. I suggest you use some method of protecting the bare surface after dedoming as described by Chicago X here
That seems it contradict almost all the successful results in this thread that have reported a more neutral tinted hotpot. I’m not sure why you’re seeing that result with your mods.
HAL,
I did a perfect job on the CITIPOWER X7. It literally popped the dome off. But what I did notice was that at the bottom of the dome was what looked like the top of the emitter. But the silicone is completely removed. I literally peeled or plucked it off in one pluck of my knife blade. But the bluish/purplish tint sucks.
I took the rest of the dome off my X9. It has a smaller hotspot and is warmer. It was 38000 lux. I measured it at 1 meter and it was 39500 lux. I backed up to 4 meters and it was almost 60000! I didn’t believe it so I got my STL-V2 to compare. At 1 meter the STL was 47000 lux and the X9 39500. Back to 4 meters (or around there…) the STL dropped to 44000 while the X9 shot up to over 55000.
I feel like all I did was make my XML into a neutral xpg though…
Ok, so I had evening on “leisure” which means I got enough guts to give it a try….
First, I was thinking to de-dome my precious one U3 binned, coppermounted one…
Then, remembered, I have that DOA “Marsfire” still on the shelf!! Got pill off, LED off, won´t bodge… Driver off and What has happened here?!?
Coil is loose from the PCB (had not put in to parts before since got refund back in the days…) 1min solder, complete and WORKING!!
Ok, next victim was P60 dropin by Solarforce.
Took LED off just to notice the thermal paste has max 25mm2 of contact area, meh…. and I did a thermal wrap on these?
LED off, ANDI style -> hotplate of 300-400°C.
I bet it was “hot enough” since I reflowed it 3 times. I used just a generic knife because got too short nails…
I had to wait (obviously) for the solder to cool down for not to move the LED off, still, Got pretty crappy surface quality.
LED still working, though.
I must say, surface looks bad even to bare eye, cannot measure LUX but I´m gonna solder it back to P60 to see if anything has happened to beam.
I have no chance to polish it, which is just too bad…
It sounds like you peeled off part of the phosphor layer with the dome, and that caused the blue/purple tint shift.
Initials thought are not about throw (P60 after all) but about tint.
How would you guys describe tin afterwards??
I compared De-domed XM-L with cool white (1A) and neutral (3C) and I would say it is in the middle.
Far less yellow than in 3C, very obvious difference IMO but far less bluish tints than in 1A.
I can sense a slight greenish tint, but very slight.
Tint got better no doubt about it.
What causes this?
I have heard bluish tints (short wavelength) reflect easiest. Does removing the Dome lessen the initial reflection / scattering of the beam, thus letting more non-bluish tints escape? :~
Anyonr know if i heated some pliers up with butanr torch, then clamped qnd slowly pulled it would work?
HAHAHAHA
That may very well be.
Yep that’s seems to be the case, missed this when I read it before
ILIKEFLASHLIGHTS,
Can I ask what method you used there? I mean seriously man, you’ve de-domed like 6 of your XML’s but it sounds like you’re just cutting away at them with your knife and not following either of the two main documented methods in this thread.
That sounds like viffer750’s dome heating method with the iron substituted. Would be interesting find out which removal action will get the best surface finish. A straight pull maybe the worst, and a push or twist off might leave a sheered off more even surface. Just guesses.
CheapThrills,
The tint change you described about matches what i’ve seen. Why it happens… I’m going with god-did-it.
You guys are po-ets,
But you already know-it 