how about soaking in denatured alcohol? or a quick dunk in denatured alcohol after the gas bath?
Hi,
My XM-L U3 has been soaking for ~14 hours now, and the dome is still intact (not removed)?? I swished the jar around, and the dome still intact :(.
The dome ain’t moving :(!!
Edit: Is it possible that the U3 dome is made of some different material than the older Ux emitters, and gasoline doesn’t work with it?
I left my XPE in for a couple days and had no residual to mess with. Personally, I wouldn’t swish and risk the bond wires . . . .
It’s going on 18 hours now and now movement yet … so just let it sit longer?
Has it swelled up/changed shape? Did you scrape off the flat bits at the corners to give the gas an easier time getting under the dome? You can also make a bunch of small cuts, very shallow, just enough to break the surface, with a razor across the top of the dome to give it a head start.
I have not seen one yet that didn't start showing signs after only the first hour. All variants - XML, XML2, XPG2...
It doesn’t look like it’s changed shape at all :(.
And no, I didn’t do anything to the emitter before dropping it into the gasoline.
Post a picture of what you're doing, only thing I can figure is that some part of the process is being skipped/misinterpreted...
These are some pics from just after I put the emitter/pcb into the gasoline last night. They’re not very good, so I didn’t post them earlier:
The thing looks pretty much like what’s in those pics now (still)…
It really wasn’t doing much, so I poked it gently, from the top, with a small pointed stick, felt something “pop”. It looks like most of the dome is gone, but there’re some remnants now (the side of the dome?):
I put it back in the gasoline, to see if those remnants would disappear.
Jim
Edit: I can’t get a really good pic, but the part of the dome that’s still attached looks like the side of the dome that is over the wires :(… I’ll leave it in the gas longer, but it doesn’t look like it’s going to dissolve/release that piece of the dome wall.
It might not be the same with all LEDs but it will fall off eventually. The dome of my C8 LED fell off after 12 hours and the dome of my K40 after 16 hours. Others have soaked their LEDs for 24 hours before the domes fell off.
Do not shake the bottle too much as you might cut the thin wires in your LED.
Hi,
That piece isn’t going away, so I decide to pull it out. Here’s what it looks like:
I wanted to see how attached that piece was but when I just touched it with a small wooden pick, it fell off, leaving:
It’s hard to see from the image, but there are some small white spots, so I look like I lost some of the phospor :(…
I’m waiting for it to dry off and will see if it lights :)…
If you just solder it up now before it dries you should see some light
Nobody knows if just a denatured alcohol bath will do this without killing the phosphor?
Don't have gas around that's not premix... I suppose I could drop in in my gas tank and fetch it from my fuel filter in a day or two
Pulsar,
You sound more anxious to see if it lights than I do :)!
I was wondering: With some of the phosphor missing like that, I remember reading that there’ll be some off-color, but since it seems like it’s only a small area missing, if it goes in a light (like back into the A60), how will it work? Will throw still be good, ignoring color/tint?
Should be. If I remember right the phosphor is to filter the blue light. Where it is missing will emit blue... Bit I imagine it will throw as good.
I was referring to the gas igniting as you tried to solder it lol
Another thought... If you stripped all of the phosphor, ignoring tint, wouldn't it throw better as less light would be filtered out?
Hi,
Sorry, I missed the humor about the “seeing some light” :).
ohaya, I have lived and breathed cars for nearly the past 20 years and I can't recall ever seeing gasoline as clear as what's in your jar there. What is it?
Isopropyl/denatured/rubbing alcohol will not break down the silicone, it's only used to wash away the gasoline, and if used in a spray bottle, to physically knock off the looser bits of silicone.
If you ever make one like this...
...I would highly recommend some appropriate eye protection. Lots of UV will come out of one of those and you won't realize it until 3 hours later and you're still seeing purple spots.
Hi,
Ahem… So, gasoline and wood pick dedomed XM-L U3 in an A60, with some missing phospors: 87324 (87.3 Klux)!
Somewhat greenish and ringy beam, to my eyes though:
Direct driven, tailcap ~3.5+ amps, some Ultrafire 18650, partially discharged previously.
Edit:
Outside (taken with my Android tablet - “night scene” - sorry):
Control:
~40 - 50 meters (big reel of cable or fiber):
There’s really some spill, but I can’t see it in the above pic :(…
That’s what I would like to ask too. It looks like Av Gas or Kerosene to me. :~
It was gasoline, straight out of a pump from an Exxon .station. Regular unleaded.
The phosphor is not a filter, it is a wavelength shifter. I believe XM-Ls, like most, have a blue led and a mixed or broad band phosphor. It absorbs some of the blue and re-emits it isotropically as green or red. There are white leds that emit UV and all the visible light is made in the phosphor, but I don’t think the XM-L is one of them. That is why the spectrum has a narrow peak in the blue and a broad hump somewhere around yellow or green.
So it produces no UV. In any case, there isn’t enough voltage to produce hard UV, no matter how the emitter is constructed.