XHP70 for automotive use

they got a nice even flood beam, i got them on my 10 and 100W LEDs
but i wouldnt use them for off road setup, the plastic reflector is kinda fragile, but the glass lense is actualy prity solid,
they works good with the multi beads LEDs, dont know about a single bead.

led bar is easy yes, but how would you make is water resistance after you place the optics?

the same way i build heads for these lights, Not so ordinary lights

wow awesome! :beer:
this lights of yours are looking realy nice, and i think i could see a toggle switch there and a dimmer?
love it :slight_smile:

Some good info guys much appreciated…

I’m looking at a more floody set up rather than a thrower. I will experiment with different reflectors once I have made up a test mule to work with.

My first priority was to learn what I needed to drive these with and today thanks to the helpful replies, I have learnt quite a bit.

I will have a good look through the forum at different set ups and choose a method that I will be happy and confident to tackle.

I will prob have to ask a few more questions, but will try and find info first.

It’s a great forum and I’m glad I joined up.

:beer:

I have just subscribed to his youtube channel.

I will prob drop off the radar for a bit now while I digest everything on there!

I will still reply to posts on this thread though. I will be back once I have decided which route I’m going down to let you all know what I’m doing.

LOL … don’t be surprised if I pop up now and again to ask a few questions about how does this work/can I use this method etc.

alpg88, the transparent window, made of glass or plastic?
im assuming its plastic as its realy hard to drill glass, but plastic could get yellow after time in the sun,
im looking for a way to make it useing glass, maybe with some frame to hold the glass with some screws and use some silicon to make it all water proof…

it does get yellow over time, over long period of time.
however polycarb. is cheap to replace, it is a lot more durable than glass, as far as vibrations, and impacts go, and a lot easier to work with.

not to mention anti uv coated polycarb is available.

i guess silicon aint gona be as good for sealing, need to design it with some kind of gasket, so it will be easyer to replace.
ty :beer:

actually silicone is a great sealant if you apply it correctly, and press the lens evenly, and firmly, it does make it a bit complicated to replace glass, i have replaced them few times in my lights (small head screwes, tightened too hard create rips). but if i was building off road bar, i’d definatly go with gasket over silicone, in my case (portable lights) sun, vibrations, and easy repairs, are not something i’m concearned with, but you should.

Ok great thanks.

So this is how I understand this. In series, of 3 = 36v and I give the string say 5A (they each get 5A?)

In parallel they would each get 12v but need 3x5A meaning at least a 15A power supply to achieve.

Think I’m getting there.

yep

Thanks T-boon

Ok, as I understand things so far…

I can use one of those constant current supplies in the following methods.

Using the stock specs just for reference 5.8 @ 2100 mA (6-V) so if I wanted say use 3x XHP70 in series, I set the current to 2.1A The voltage to 17.4v and they would all get 5.8v and 2.1A?

Same method for this if I wanted to use 12v config.

If I have this correct I will be pleased that I have learnt something.

Thanks.

Dave.

yes, pretty much correct,

however, if you use constant\current constant voltage regulator, you would need to set your current to what you need, and turn voltage pot all the way up. curent will be set, but voltage will be adjusted automatically, to what is needed at the moment , voltage flactuates in leds, as they heat up voltage changes. that is the entire purpose of drivers, to keep currents constant, and adjust voltage.

Yep, you got it for series. All three XHP70’s will get the same amps (whatever you’ve set your constant-current driver to), but their voltages will be a little different because the manufacturing tolerances aren’t perfect. Plus you’ll have a bit of extra voltage that’ll drop across your wires and sinkpads/noctigons. So you’ll likely end up with a bit over 17.4V total for the three LEDs I believe.

ECHO

Thanks for the last 2 replies.

And thanks again to all the others in this thread that have posted with their help. This has enabled me to work things out with my limited knowledge.

It’s great learning as you go. Forums like this are so valuable.

:slight_smile:

what they sayd. :arrow: alpg88 and ECHO
while im runing my 100W led im actualy seting the boost module to 40V@3A, even if the LED is actualy need only 35V…
it will alsow prevent the boost module from switching betwin constant current and constant voltage regulation,
please let us know how it gose, dont forget to take some pics along the way :slight_smile:

I will when I start my proper project with the off road lights.

In the meantime, I have ordered one of the 600w dc converters and a 100w cob LED, a reflector and lens. Going to do some
practising with all that first.

I want to purchase some of these but they seem to be hard to get hold of at the moment.

XHP70A-01-0000-0D00N40E3