Keep in mind that most non automotive electronics/drivers are not hardened to withstand the high transient voltage spikes created by an alternator. The link in the OP is certainly questionable, as is its ability to operate up to 14.9V without failure while maintaining constant regulation. I didnt see a data sheet and didnt search for one. They may or many not survive in that environment. If the transient voltage spikes dont kill non-hardened electronics right away, it could shorten the life of the electronic considerably. I am only aware of one enthusiast level separate LED driver that has been hardened to withstand automotive voltage spikes while being capable of delivering any amount of real power. Its built and sold by a US enthusiast. Linear regulator capable of 195 watts - 13.5 amps @14.4V (and has separate thermal rampdown for MCPCB and remote sink temp monitor for thermal rampdown. Also capable of accommodating a remote trim pot for variable output. I have a pair of them for a large 40k lumen XM-L2 offroad light bar and another for a 20K lumen aircraft landing light array. Both projects are stalled for the time being, but you can find links to the driver and the large amount of cooling hardware and considerations it takes to exchange this amount of heat. After all is said and done, you can quickly approach or exceed the price of a recent model Rigid LED driving light and still not exceed the well engineered housing, optical lighting pattern, heat sinking, sheer reliability and overall brute output. They build a superior product by every mention of the word and more than deserve their outstanding reputation in high performance off road LED lighting.
Links in my build thread:
IMO, if your alternator can sustain 8 Amps, you’d be better off with a $50 100 watt 8000 lumen HID conversion stuffed into a top end Hella or Piaa housing and avoid all the weight and complexity of heat sinking and electronics. The HID’s are cheap and reliable and live well in that environment becasue they dont sag very much during low RPM/low voltage plodding. I have both, and the HID’s are a simple highly effective solution. The downside is that it takes 8-10 seconds to heat up a 100W HID, but they hot-restrike once up to full temp and maintain heat long enough for traffic to pass… when necessary. If passers-by dont shut down their lighting arrays when we pass (usually laughable chinese light bar junk), I always win by 10 fold. :bigsmile:
I can also point this thing at them to get their attention:
Its also worth mentioning that a cold-start 100W HID is still far brighter than a 55W halogen!