XinTD C8 -- U2 or Neutral White-T6 3C ???

[quote=Ubehebe]
>>>>
Brings to mind a beer-tasting test I heard on a popular radio show a few years ago. The tasters SWORE left and right that they could tell their favorite brand come heck or high water. I thought one or two would get it wrong. But to a man, once blindfolded, every single person could NOT ID the beers. 99% wrong. It was areal eye opener.

Heineken drinkers could NOT tell the diff between a heinekin and a Bud — if blindfolded. To me that is just astounding. When I used to drink beer, most american beers tasted like swill to me. Foo-foo designer beers tasted like heaven on earth …. or so I thought. I had my wife test me, and you guessed it. I could not tell the difference. I thought maybe the radio taste test was a setup. I was wrong.

quote]

LOL…utter Balderdash ! If they coudn’t tell the difference, it was because they were NOT REAL BEER DRIKERS. Apparently, you aren’t either. But I digress.

Back on topic…

I bet you bought the NW…and probably the cool white also… NW is the way to go.

To be fair, all lager tastes like chemical crap. Proper beers at least give you a chance, its hard to tell lager from window cleaner. At least with a neutral tint, compared to a cool white tint, you only have to shine it on a flower to see the difference. I currently have one more neutral tint light, I have no idea in the tint bin, I bought it modified, but just a green bush really pops under the light compared with other lights that just wash out all the colour.

I think even the most discerning folks might have trouble pinning down a precise tint bin (1A vs 1B, or perhaps even 1A vs 2A, for example), but the difference between, say, 1A and 3C is pretty obvious. At the moment there are 3 P60 drop-ins that I’m playing with the most in different hosts. They are a CW T6 (not sure of the precise bin), a T6 3C, and a T5 5C1. If I forget which drop-in is in which host, all I have to do is turn them on. And I don’t mean I have to figure this out by way of comparison. I just turn one on, shine it around, and I know what it is, and I’m sure I wouldn’t be the only one.

>>>>>LOL…utter Balderdash ! If they coudn’t tell the difference,
>>>>>>it was because they were NOT REAL BEER DRIKERS.

I didn’t try to ID stout over some foo-foo apricot watermelon chocolate beer. That would be cheating.

But they were all the “popular” domestic brands and “popular” imported. Iller, Bud, Micheload, Coors, Sam adams, St. Pauli, Heinekin, Spaten (NOT ULtimator hahahahha), Corona, etc.

As each contestant failed to ID basically anything, the next guy would boast he would do much better and the other guy was an idiot, etc. But he’d do even worse.

At the end, 99% of the IDs were wrong.

hahahahah Maybe we should set up the first annual BLF blindfold beer ID taste-off and Cree tint test. Winner gets a wrong order from Manafont that can’t be returned. Or a $7.50 DD gift certificate instead of the ordered Trustfire X6. :wink:

It’s basically the same story in wines. Plenty of empirical evidence exist that the supposed nuances of terroir, etc. is bullshit or at the very least less important than just about everything else (eg. storage, decanting, etc, etc). Very much doubt anyone except experts (NOT “connoisseurs”) under control conditions can even distinguish between varietals from different makers.

You had a chance to answer this question for yourself, with your own eyes….

Punt.

Interesting. I think comparative is the key word.

If you only had one light or drank one kind of beer or wine, then likely you would not be able to pick others by virtue of not having any reference to compare them with

Professional tasters, wine, beer, spirits, coffee, tea, constantly taste and compare many varieties. That helps build a reference library which the brain can remember, recall and use to compare in ideal circumstances.

Like the old incan lights we used to rely on, we knew they were yellowish tints even if we did not know the meaning of the word then.

But then, having compared that to another better tint, suddenly the incan just doesn’t compete anymore. We now know there is something better. That knowledge becomes part of our memory and experience.

I know the eye adjusts, rather the brain adjusts what the eye sees. But to what degree can it compensate?

I can read or watch TV without my glasses, but it makes my eyes tired and sore. It makes me feel tired too.

Surely good tint is more natural and soothing? I’m sure there is lots of research on the effects of tint and colour on the human psyche.

I think there is only so much the brain can filter out, even though we can if necessary make do with much less than the ideal.

People are different, eyes are different. Some like lager, some like stout. Please your eyes not mine. I do like 6500 k wc bin xre’s though. Each color bin is a range so 2 different 1A’s might not look the same. For my mtb, never liked the old yellow incans but cool whites cast harsh shadows. Makes me feel like I’m riding in a horror flick.

Ubehebe - look forward to your answer eventually.

One side note, not beer. :wink: The mind is great at white leveling for tint. It’s got very refined software and lot’s of processing power behind it. Cyan and red photons that don’t exist can’t reflect back to the eye though no matter how white my mind tells me the light coming in is. Screw tint; I want to maximize the amount of data feeding in through my Mk1 eyeball port.

I really cant believe that you are not telling us :stuck_out_tongue:

Looking at some of the tint shots, I find myself disliking tints that reveal leaves as more yellow than the eye expects from daytime viewing. Perhaps because in nature I still see more green in fall than I see yellow (though certainly not the same as green in spring) - at least until the leaves truly turn and begin to fall.

Grew up in S. Calif where yellow became brown and dead by early summer and stayed that way most of the year. There is a certain beauty to the desert . . it’s just IMO not a pretty as lots of green trees and blue water.

Hi guys with this XinTD C8 light, how long can you run on Max before it get too hot to hold or damage the the LED? Just a ball park estimate will do. I’m looking at some of these bigger sized budget lights that can hold onto Max output for about 20~30mins.

I’ve personally not done a “test” per say, but I have run it on high for many minutes on end, and never noticed it getting dangerously hot. Yes it gets quite warm.

Only get CW when going for ultimate throw. A C8 is not a thrower, and therefore should not use a CW.

Thanks. Glad to know it can handle the heat on max output.

I just want to say how happy I am to see that the XinTD is now available with U3!

And I’m even happier that I recently sold mine, and need another!

>>>>>I just want to say how happy I am to see that the XinTD is now available with U3!!!

Rub it in. I can take it. U3 was offered when I ordered. :frowning: Must have missed it be like a day. Figures. Story of my life.

Is that your way of announcing what your decision was? :wink:

We’re probably a while before a U3 bin in a budget light doesn’t come with a decent chance it’s really a U2 anyway. =))

>>>>>Is that your way of announcing what your decision was?

I meant to say that the u3 +WASN’T+ offered when I ordered. heh heh oops.

The way everyone is still watching this thread, waiting to hear what I ordered, I have no doubt that I will be tarred and feathered no matter what I chose. :wink:

I thought you already told us, ….one only needs to read between the lines.