I just finished upgrading two different lights from XM-L to XM-L2, and now the tail readings on both lights seems to have gone down.
Both lights are driven by East-92 drivers and one 26650.
Before the emitter swap, the XM-Ls were giving me a reading of 5.3A on a 26650 fresh off the charger. After I upgraded to XM-L2, I am getting a reading of 4.5A with both lights.
Is this a normal occurrence with XM-L2 vs XM-L?
I’m actually getting the same thing, but at lower readings.
3.2A iirc xml alu.
2.65A now xml2 on copper.
Same 26650 battery.
I’m expecting some new 26700 E-Moli IMRs in the mail tomorrow. I wonder if they’ll make a difference?
Measure & compare the voltage across the two LEDs and you'll see why there's a difference in the amps. XML2 needs higher voltage to pass the same current as XML. You're giving both of them the same voltage, so the one with higher Vf will pass less current.
Its normal..
2 batteries and a buck driver is the good high output solution.
In single cell (or parallel setup), cells with low voltage sag is the best option if you are seeking max output, but you get lower capacity and runtime..
The largest difference between XM-L to XM-l2 I have seen was 3,5 to 2,2A. In that case, I switched back to the XM-L since I did not care for efficiency in that light. Your result is quite typical.
I shared some various results in the L4 mod thread about the issue I had with Vf on different XM-L2s. Either way, XM-L2s in general need a bit higher Vf...
That must be why we were seeing varying results with the East-92 drivers. (The good ones) Some were being tasted with XM-L, and some with XM-L2.
Do you have any opinion on how the E-Moli IMR will affect my readings?
http://www.molicel.com/ca/pdf/IMR26700.pdf
I like my prefer East-92’s with XM-L2. A much more phosphorous crunch with a hint of solder and a slight copper aftertaste. 
Tested? :bigsmile:
So, is the East 092 era over? Anybody sell them anymore? I now Fasttech had some bad batches and gave them up, so it there another source?
Oh, on the Moli — I have found some lights like the Moli, others like the Power izer, and some like the SE US26650 Vt (Sony) — why, ah, I don’t know …
The last three I got from FT were the good ones. The TangsFire HD2010 from Tmart have the good ones installed, so there must be a supply source, we just need a retail vender.
Which specific 26650 are you using btw?
It seems that I misspoke. I went back and checked my original post on the Paisen U2-Z6 and the current drop is not as severe as i thought.
My original reading with the XM-L U2 was…
Panasonic NCR18650PD – 4.10A
EFest 18650 IMR – 4.01A
Sony US18650VTC3 – 5.02A
KingKong ICR26650 (unprotected) – 4.58A
FourSevens 26650 (protected) – 4.85A
I’m getting more excited to see what those E-Moli cells can do.
I only made a test order of two East-092s when FT first brought them back, I got two completely different drivers using different components on different PCBs, but using the same basic layout. They'd look the same to a non-driver person. One did no more than 2.4A no matter what it was powered by, the other did under one amp.
Some people got lucky and got the original versions. FT's stock was mixed with real ones, fake ones, and horrible ones.
I got some of the last ones. I think the first people to jump in got the remains of the mixed stock. I was really happy when I saw the MOSFET. I wish I had ordered more.
They still have the fake/2nd redesign version listed under a separate SKU, the components and output match the better of the two I was sent.
I understand the difference in Vf between the two brothers. It makes sense.
But what still spin my head is WHY the current drops even lower when the emitter is dedomed. Can anyone explain why this happens?
Probably temperature related, the die would be cooler with the dome gone.
I got my E-Moli 26700 IMRs today. Didn’t make any real difference. In fact my FourSevens protected 26650 are still outperforming the E-Moli and KingKong ICR26650.
I’ve yet to ever see any kind of review on FourSevens 26650. I might have to order some more of these.
I think I’m going to have to build a true direct drive light using only a contact board and run some tests.
MNKE or Powerizer...
What kind of current levels would I be getting from a true direct drive over the East-92?