XML2 U3

yep, but you can get good high output xp-g’s and crap low output xp-g2’s

Thanks Tom, I didn't get to see your original post before it was deleted.

Agreed! Ban, lock and edit is better so we can see what happened previously.

Thanks for the tests Tom. I think this is the only way one can tell if the LED’s are rated correctly, and the more samples the better. :slight_smile:

Do you have any plans to test these LED’s: http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/CREE-XML2-LED/330416_251473169.html ?

Thanks again.

Well, really don't want to get into the emitter testing biz, too much of a PIA in time and expense, though think it's beneficial to everyone -- I vote for relic38!

Actually looked at this site and it's all T2-T6's, no U2's, though prices look real good but didn't check out shipping. Big risk to take with an unknown seller to buy qty from. Also it's a PIA to buy them on stars you will be throwing away, at least for me, because copper direct path is the only way to go -- alum is a total waste now. I'll probably never be using aluminum again, ever.

Yeah Hank offering all on noctigon is awesome.

I'm only using aluminum when I CAN'T use copper. Like the pill on my Xeno e03 that only fits a 14mm star, or the Trustfire Z2 that probably takes an even smaller star.

I suppose I shouldn't say that I can't because I could get a custom copper Sinkpad made if I wanted a thousand stars. Anyone want 999 14mm copper Sinkpads?

Well, guys have been cutting down the 16's to 14 - that's what they were designed for, though the thickness may be an issue, but they can be sanded down fairly easily. I sand down all the SinkPAD 16's until the indent is totally gone, but never cut the diameter of one down.

Yeah, it does take a lot of time and money. We should have someone like HKJ to test emitters as well. :smiley:

lol what

(XML2 T6 all-copper direct drive module for 3x NiMh AA Minimag LED)

After spending filing down a penny the other night to fit in that pill, this doesn't sound fun at all. I might give it a shot anyway. Hopefully Fujik isn't that hard to remove...

Tin snips make quick work of getting rid of the bulk of material, then a bit of filing to final size. No way would I be able to do any of this without my beloved left/right/straight tin snips. :love:

on sinkpads?
i was considering doing this, but thought it may cause the traces to contact the copper star causing a short

It might, but even if it does the filing/sanding to final size gets rid of that. They cut really cleanly though.

based on your recommendation i will endeavour to sacrifice one soon

what grit sandpaper, or do i start low and work my way up?

Cut to within around 1/16" of the final size, then take the rest off with a hand file. Sandpaper would take several forevers.

I'll give that a shot with a penny. Even if I only get a few straight snips off, filing it back to round and down to the final diameter would be a lot less than only using a file.

Thanks for the Testing TOM E . What is the Name of the Bad Seller?

I started a new thread don it here: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/20318. Info in OP.

Ok here is my bit on these "U3" emitters.

I actually ordered U2 from a supplier who has be very reputable up to this point. When the package came they were marked U3. I figured well they either are or they are not, makes no difference since I was expecting U2.

I didnt do any special testing for output and had no problmes with them at all until I de-domed one. It died at 6.5A. So I backed down the driver current to 4.9A. Then tried again with another. Same result. Poof again. So I assumed the problem must be a short in the driver, so I replaced the driver. De-domed another emitter in the gas, and the next day tried again. Still POOF> I did another and this time dropped it on the ground and when I picked it back up it would not light so that one we will call "my bad"

Anyway we come to the 5th emitter ( ALL of these wire on a sinkpad refllowed to a copper heat sink btw) This one actually handled the current, but it turned black right around the bond wires and put a little black fog right near them.

I tested that driver on a NW de-dome XM-L2 I had with no problem at all. In fact I have never had this kind of problem ever. Once in a while we all lose an emitter, but 5?

AM I really just this much of a SPAZ this week or is there really something different about these?

Has anyone else tried a high current de-dome app with these?

You must have missed this thread.

Its not you, its the emitters.