On our T20's, djozz has his dedomed XP-G2 at 3.05A on a SinkPAD, I got mine w/dome at 3.85A on a SinkPAD. From my experiences, Match's graphs are pretty accurate (his XR-E's graphs seem dead on). I believe it was posted also that a SinkPAD in a flashlight and a SinkPAD on Match's setup is effectively the same - not sure about the alum stars.
I think I’ll run it at 2.45 amps by removing one 7135.
So on these copper sinks we can push g2’s to 3 or 4A… In a light? Real world usage?
yup!
there’s a few caveats.
I would pick a light of substantial mass, I would prefer a brass/copper pill, I would be inclined to solder/silver solder the sinkpad to the pill then flow the emitter to the sinkpad.
I would want a good thermal path to the outside, yes you can push 4 - 5 amp into an xp-g2, provided you deal with heat effectively.
The deft x runs at these currents and is a commercially viable light. There are a few people on here pushing 4a and not using what I suggested, I both trust and value their experience so I would follow them.
I am planning on a similar hi current build myself this year in a 55mm head, I figure it will be comparable to a jacob a60 in throw but with a much brighter spill.
One thing for sure, the xp-g2 is shapng up to be the new xr-e r2 in terms of producing hi lux throwers, heck, it already holds the record - deft x again.
Please note the write-up on the bottom of the opening post in this thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/16621 by Match. He's saying there's very little difference in results between a SinkPAD and a large copper milled PCB. This is a very meaningfuil quote from Match:
"I'll let the data speak for itself, but suffice to say that with the availability of these sinkpads, I've milled my last copper pcb"
This doesn't mean we don't need additional mass and heat sinking, but the direct bonding days seem to be over. I'll typically go to 3.85A in a C8 sized pill, but this is with adding copper inside the pill, and expecting short duration runs on high, upt to 6-7 minutes, from my testing. 4.2A amps I go with in lights like an HD 2010 or Small Sun T08 - those bigger sized lights, but thinking could push it higher still to 4.5A maybe, taking into account switches, spring wiring, heavier LED wiring, etc.
and there is the person I’d listen too.↑
follow tom, you wont go far wrong.
And there is obviously no reason whatsoever why a flashlight than can heatsink a xml at 3A cannot heatsink a xpg2 at 3A. Only what is critical is getting the heat away fast close to the led, and that is what the sinkpad does.
I'm not an expert by any means and this isn't backed up by data like others here have, but I can offer an explanation for how this works. As you follow the thermal path from the source, the center pad of the LED, through to the outside air, at each junction the surface area for heat transfer increases greatly. From the LED pad to the SinkPAD, SinkPAD is vastly bigger. The pill is vastly bigger than the SinkPAD. Whatever the pill is attached to is vastly bigger than the pill. Each step you get farther from the tiny little heat source, the quality of the junction matters less and less, because the contact area is so much bigger.
comfychair - that's a great explanation, I've heard it stated, but not explained like that. I know some consider 3.5A over the top, but think how a lot of the preferred lights behave in a stock configuration - an HD 2011 EDC - runs direct drive, 3.xx amps or even higher. An HD 2010 or Keygos KE-5: 4-5 amps or even higher, direct drive stock lights. So, running 3.85A or 4.2A regulated with additional heat sinking, replacing switches, etc., is far better. Would love to have temperature monitoring in a Nanjg driver but that's not here yet.
I have a number of 2.8a drivers but where is everyone getting these 3-4-5 amp drivers? Any available in the typical p60 size driver? Single li-ion?
You want 5 amp to fit a p60? Have you been talking to scaru too much?
One option is to stack A LOT of 7135 chips, or use a slave board, but that’ll add deapth and depend on your pill. I’d be iffy about 5a in something less than a keygos m10 in mass, and it’d have to be a good m10, recent examples appear to be poor.
I would consider something like this but I’ll report back on this in a couple of weeks.
For ease, you might fit an off the shelf 5a driver in this host but I’ve not tried one yet to confirm, the switch, in another host is rated at 3a which is amazing for the size of it (fricken tiny!).
I really want to try fitting an xp-g2 in a convoy l2 host from fasttech, but I like 2 x 26650 hosts for throwers/area of effect lights, the torchlite cd-v7 host from edc+ is another obvious candidate as
It’ll take a 5a or 9a driver pretty easily.
Sorry I didn’t mean I wanted 5 amp out of a p60, but that generic sized driver is more what I meant. I wouldn’t mind 3-4 amp out of a p60 host on copper sink though!
I agree, I am tempted by that L2 as well. Right now I am modding my unique fire uf-t20 to fit a 20mm star and then it will get the xml2 on copper sinkpad I just re flowed. It is also getting a 4+ amp driver. Can’t wait to see the results.
Would a XP-G25C S4 2B be able to handle 5 amps after dedomed?
The XP-G2 can handle it no problem, the question is if the cell & driver can supply it 
If you use a high amp buck driver then it is no problem, but if you plan to run it DD from a single 18650, the high Vf of the high flux bins XP-G2’s make it very hard to sustain over 5A for more than an instant.
So what is the max amp for the xp-g2? I’m thinking of using the low profile 17 mm buck driver from RMM
That emitter S2 2B is strange, it runs at 5.6amps even with a unbridged spring AND 22 awg wire( with a fresh battery ofc), i builded like a dozen C8s this way, they all run fine for now
Ofc you cant expect 25K working hours……more or less at 5 amps the emitters life would be 10% of its original one, but 2500 hours ( till it degrades at 70%) are a good value for a flashing, to reach it you have to use that torch for 3 hours every single day in 2 years time frame
2500 hours it just a guess,who knows they could be 1200 hours: even so its a good time frame fro a flashlight
The choice about what max amp you want Richard to build his MTN-MAXlp HP driver for a XP-G2 build, is more about how much heat your host can take and how much runtime you want and not if the XP-G2 S4 2B can take it or not. The XP-G2 S4 2B can take more than 5.5A that is the max of that driver
And if you want lower amp, there is always modes.
Personally i always goes for max amp that i can possibly build in any build i do :bigsmile:, but it is up to you if you go for max or want to get more run time out of your build, i don’t have a problem swapping in fresh cell when ever my lights run down so i always go for max amp and max output.
Interesting, i have to pick up some from fasttech 
Do you think they would still look nice and NW dedomed even if i gas dedome them? I haven’t learned yet how to do hot dedomes.
I dont do gas dedoming anymore, my exp says it always change the tint more than hot electrical dedoming…… well, i havent learned too rofl , especialy when i am in a huggy Today i killed 2 XML2 in a row cause of my hurriness….thats why old people here says: Hurry slowly- but someone has to listen you know…anyway, if a am rested and carefull enought i kill like 1 emitter at 10 dedomings, so its bareable