I did my DQG Tiny IV mod somewhat similar to Dutchee’s mod.
- Not the easiest mod, but still substantially easier to mod than the DQG Tiny III, mainly because I could actually get the head off the body.
- I used a 20mm e-switch driver from Mountain Electronics that I reflashed to Anduril.
- I super-glued a microswitch to the top of the the Atiny on the driver.
- The driver fits in the cavity between the head and body tube and is not glued in.
- In the optic compartment I cut pieces of copper sheet into disk shape with a slot in it for the driver wires and the switch. Layered them up and then soldered them together. The copper raises the star to the correct height and provides additional heat sinking mass.
- the triple Noctigon and triple TIR sits on top of that. I think I may have had to slightly file down the edges of the star and legs of the TIR.
- The bezel is the same 20mm width as the TIR. This means something else is needed to prevent the TIR falling out: either a fat o-ring or a lens.
- I used a 22mm UCL acrylic lens from Flashlightlens.com. I used a small file to shave down one side of the edge of the lens so it would fit under the bezel.
This makes for a reliable build and while not the easiest mod, it was far from the hardest.
The DQG TinyIII was much harder to mod since I couldn’t get the body tube off… too much threadlocker (in contrast my Tiny IV had little or no threadlocker). For the DQG III I ended up dremeling out most of the driver, mounted a contact plate below and the driver in the cavity in the middle, then made a little hollow platform out of copper to support the star and provide heatsinking.